Hey guys!

Ive been talking to a friend who owns a 2002 OZ Rally Automatic. He wanted to see about tuning his car so I pulled his ROM with EcuFlash. Well I had some trouble finding definition files. And while I as looking around I found a few posts about guys switching to 2003 OZ AT roms because their definitions were more supported.

So my question is first off is there anything we need to change or can the 03 rom be written onto the 02 ECU or would we need to swap ECUs? And second, if we can write it to the 02 ECU, where can I find an 03 rom to download?

Thank you for any help guys! I appreciate it!

 

No one?

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=334394

Master XML listing for the lancer. Take a look at the rom ID number on his lancer and see if it matches any of these. If not post what it is

 

this is fairly recent and maybe you guys can help me. i have a 03 oz and i need some help being pointed in the right direction for the software and cable used for these cars and what all needs tuned in my computer. ive put a header and straight piped it, dose anything need to be done or am i pretty much good as it has a bit of low idle but that from what ive read needs to be resolved in the computer itself so any help is greatly appreiciated

 

How low of an idle do you have? For tuning, you need a 1.3u tactrix cable, evoscan, and ecu flash

 

it dosent happen all the time only when my car feels like being a "pita" but it idels at 700 like its supposed to then itll drop till it makes this quivering like sound and feeling like its gona bog out and die. (thats when your driving) but then when you come to a complete stop... not everytime it dose that but sometimes only when it dose that and you go to accelerate itll start to lurch and cut off till you take you foot of the pedle and ease on it again and some times itll happen when driving and you go to stomp on it and take off instead itll cut off and the engine will make a whirring sound and itll lurch and die out till you take your foot off and ease it agin idk if its a fuel related issue or if a bunch of sensors are going crazy bcuz of no cats... and thanks for the info on the software im going to look into it

 

Do you have a p0420 code present for the o2 sensor reading on the pre-cat? I would address that if you haven't, I would also look into the throttle positioning sensor and the idle air control valve. What size piping did you run straight back?

 

the header and down pipe i put on are a 2" opening and from the down pipe back i have 2.25 and i hace a dc sports fart cannon 2.25 inlet 3"out but from what ive read and asked people its as big as i possibly could go with out any serious side effects and as for the throttle positioning sensor im going to search that no idea what it is, what it dose or where its at i do remember one time my iac threw a code but i cleared it and it never came back so not sure what to do about it i cant seem to find one for sale anywhere its a "dealership" item but ill check for codes in the morning and let you know i have a day off

 

+1 for the IAC and TPS

I'd check to see how dirty the IAC is, that could be causing your low idle, and for the jerking and cutting out, that's the most common symptom of a failing TPS.

 

Rockauto has one for $370 but I'd try cleaning it with carb cleaner before buying one. As for the TPS, I would get a multimeter and check to see if it's bad. You need to adjust them when you install them anyways

 

ok that helps alot ill look into cleaning these. what should i use to actualy clean them i dont want to completely destroy them i dont have 400 bucks to toss out right now and where would they be correct me if im wrong but the iac is on top of the intake manifold and the tps is on the throttle body before the butterfly valve?

 

The TPS you can't clean if it's failing you just have to replace it, but to test it you'd need a multimeter like 02mod said, you can do it with a scan tool but it's not as effective. The absolute best way to do it is by scoping the voltage but that requires some pretty pricey hardware. As for the IAC the whole assembly runs $270, no place here in the states sells just the valve alone, but if you want to clean it you have 2 options, remove just the valve from the assembly and use like a wire brush to get as much crap off the spring and tip as you can(this won't do much if the passages in the assembly are pretty gunked up) or remove the whole assembly and remove the valve and go to town with carb cleaner in the assembly, let it soak for a bit and repeat a few times.

 

Here are the locations for both.

 

ok cool the iac is going to be a pita it has those little Phillips screws and they look like there going to round out if i try anything on it

 

Yeah I know, I'm gonna have to take mine out to clean it a bit too in a little while. I know with GM's they put a touch of thread locker on the screws that hold it in, but it's not really tightened too much, I'm hoping Mitsu is the same. I'm thinking I'll just hold the screwdriver into them as tight as I can and give it a slow easy turn, if it starts to slip, I'm not going any further and I'll try and figure something else out. 02mod was right, I just double checked it, it's $370 for the assembly....WAY too much!!