Yeah but I don't think there is any coolant hose going to the IM from the TB. Take the bolts off the TB, let the tb hang in the engine bay with all the hoses hooked up(except for the Vaccum lines) and then you can take the IM out of the engine bay leaving the TB in the engine bay. When the new IM is installed, install the TB on it and your coolant is still intact.

I'll see if I can look at it tonight and confirm. But I'm 98% sure that's how I did on the other Lancer.

 

There's coolant from head to TB last I checked. I don't remember if it goes through the IM too. I think it would simplify things to work on the TB off the car rather than while it's floating around on a couple coolant hoses though. The TB has coolant running through it to keep the metal from expanding, causing the butterfly to choke the flow or get stuck.

 

there is no coolant going through the manifold, just a send and return line to the tb from the head. you COULD leave the TB floating in the engine bay if you really want to, but personally i wouldn't. suck it up and disconnect the coolant lines and take the tb out

 

Well i am 9 hours into this install and i have quit for the day. I have gone nine hours without food or drink trying to get this done.

The stock TB CAN be left in place floating in the engine bay, that is how i did it...

I had no spill whatsoever.

1. do the injectors need to be forced into the block or do they just sit there and tighten up as you bolt the fuel rail down?

2. where the hell is the damn fuel filter on the 03 OZ? I searched everywhere for it because according to the instructions from B&M, I need to bolt the fuel pressure guage to it. or is there another place to bolt that?

 

P.S. I am not waiting for the MLC install day because i am trying to get my car ready for the WInged warrior show.

 

the fuel filter is actually just a "dirt sock" attached to teh pump in the back seat

so for the gauge, i would guess on the pre-rail side, but i don't know

 

FP gauge can go anywhere on the high pressure side. Depending upon the type I'd just put it right by the feed side of the fuel rail. The first time I took off my IM it took a long time too. It goes much, much faster after the first time. It's just funny cuz hardly anyone has to do that more than once.

 

just you andrew.... and over and over and over....

 

i've done IM swaps twice, by the end of summer, probably another 2 for various reasons

 

Sadly, more true than I'd like to admit. My car's on its third head.

 

i need to attach the B&M fuel pressure guage. where the heck do i mount the fittings?

 

See above.

 

well, i am now going into the third day of this install. it seems that something major goes wrong with every step i take. i just dont get it...

After hours of trying to align the new manifold with the old TB bracket (they didnt match up at all) the IM is finally completely installed.

I went to assemble my B&M fuel pressure regulator and after following the crap instructions included, i cut my stocker too low and now its garbage. so tomorrow i get to do a frantic search for a new stock fuel pressure regulator.

also thanks for the help on the guage installation. after much confusion i finally found the correct place to mount it and after dealing with pipefitting issues it will be in place first thing tomorrow.

now my only problem is finding a stock FPR without getting completely ripped off my the dealer...

 

I have a stock FPR.

 

well, the installs are all done. It took three days to successfully swap the IM, and fuel rail, and install the B&M FPR and guage.

FOR THE RECORD!:

The B&M FPR that GSC motorsports is selling in the Evo vendor forum DOES fit the 4G94 engine. However, it does require you to stray from the instructions just a little bit...

The B&M Fuel Pressure Guage kit that comes with the B&M FPR DOES NOT fit the 4G94. Before installing the FPR you need to go to the hardware store and pick up a generic pressure guage and some brass fittings and just tap the guage into the high pressure side of the line.

If i get enough requests, i will do a how-to on this install. it is not that bad if you have instructions. i did it guess and check all the way. i suffered so you dont have to.

GAINS:

just like engineerboy said, it is not like strapping on a turbo but the car no longer bogs down because of lack of fuel at low or very high RPMs. It now never lacks any "juice". The real gain kicks in after 3000-3500 when you honestly feel a harder pull.

PM me with any questions.