Tomorrow I am installing a Ported IM, B&M FPR, and a Bored Fuel Rail.

Anyone have any last minute tips, tricks, or warnings?

 

if you have a digicam, take pics as you're pulling things off (of where wires and hoses go), and double check every bolt when you're tightening things down

 

have rags ready to catch the fuel... or your best bet take out the back seats and disconnect the fuel pump, start the car up and let it die. This should save you a lot of mess. And if i remember right get some kitty litter for the coolent spillage *could be wrong about that though

 

That's really not bad actually. You have to remove the fuel rail one way or another to remove the IM. And while the removal/installation of the IM is somewhat complicated by the locations of bolts under the runners and the tight clearances surrounding them, it's mechanically quite simple. I think you need a total of maybe 3 sockets/wrenches tops if I recall correctly. 12mm and 14mm may actually be everything you need. FPR install takes a total of 30 sec on a bad day, and that's something you don't even need to bolt on the stock rail as you're replacing the rail anyway. Bolt it up to your aftermarket rail beforehand. Save yourself 45 seconds.

One thing you should check though are the o-rings and seals on your injectors. Make sure you don't have any tears or deterioration. If you do, replace them before starting the car or you may have a fire on your hands (and under your hood). Other than that it's pretty straightforward. Don't work under the car while it's on a jack.

 

its pretty simple, did the IM swap last weekend for the 2nd time

pick up some of those labels from staples they use at garage sales to label stuff: they have string on them so you can tie them to whatever

these are useful for all the electrical and vacuum lines you will be pulling off. keep it straight, and it will cut your time in half

as hobie said, careful with fuel injectors, better to replace the o rings than go kablooie!

remove the downpipe to get to the underside IM bracket easier

wratcheting wrenches will make your life 100x easier, as the IM nuts/bolts are somewhat difficult

remember to tighten the IM bolts from the inside out (starting from the center and working outward), alternating top and bottom to get a good seal on the gasket

when your coolant lines are off your tb, do NOT take your rad cap off or it will start spewing cause you equalized the pressure

thats all i can think of right now

 

If you are not replacing the throttle body try just laying it to the side before you disconnect the coolent lines. When I reinstalled my intake manifold I didn't have to take them off. I wouldn't hurt to remove them anyways. Recommend unplugging the fuel pump, makes for very little mess. Good luck with your installs! Should notice smoother acceleration=]

 

So this is not reccomended?

 

if i disconnect the fuel pump and let the engine die, wont i have to prime it to get it started again?

 

When you turn your ignition key leave it on acessorie untill the check engine light goes off. You should do this all the time but expecially now. It will ensure that you have ample fuel and oil pressure.

 

Why aren't you waiting for the MLC BBQ to do all of this? That's when I would do it personally.

 

Oh right, I forgot about having to remove coolant lines. Get a lot of rags. It doesn't matter how absorbent they are because coolant is a *****. NOTHING seems to soak it up well except things you don't want to (like trunk liner and upholestery). But yeah, that stuff WILL make a mess, and it WILL suck to clean up. If you have a catch can it may be a good idea to use it. At VERY least put an old towel on the ground under the block so that you don't have to lie in any spills.

 

my coolant didn't spill to much, like a table spoon or so on each side. i clamped off the hoses promptly, and what i missed landed on the block/transmission.

 

lol dont try and yank it too hard thinking its completely disconnected like i did friday, jacked up my hands bc i forgot about the lower brace.

 

If I'm not mistaken, if you're keeping your stock TrottleBody you don't even have to worry about coolant. Remove the bolts that holds the TB onto the IM, then let the TB hang in there. You don't need to disconnect any hoses from it if you're not changing it, cause if you're not changing it, you don't have to take it out of the engine bay.

If I recall correctly, that's how I did on my buddy's Lancer.

 

He's changing the IM, which is what the TB is mounted on. He has to put the TB from his existing IM onto the new IM. It'll have to be disconnected at some point unless he already has a TB on his new IM.