^ I'm confused??

12.7:1? I'm at 10.5:1 and I'm not planning on boosting.
I'm sorry if I am confusing anyone.

^Ok, 10.5:1 plus Fi would leave me at 12.7:1?

 

Do you mean the first O2, or the second O2?


No, since you are NA, you want to be more lean at a 12.7:1 ratio. For FI like me, a richer A/F ratio is desired just in case of boost spikes and such, so a 11.5:1 would be a good target. So, you will want to remove fuel using SAFC or Emanage and I will want to add fuel.

 

My bad, I got it confused with compression ratio .....

 

1st O2. It's the controller. The 2nd O2 is just a check that the primary cat is indeed doing it's job.

 

OK, after reading this thread and similar others, from what I understand one can only expect about 5hp, not even whp total from any on the management units? And it is also usually better to pay someone to tune them? All that money spent for only 5hp What about torque? How much torque can be expected?
I ask because I was considering a SAFC-2.

 

See my last post on the subject. If you're thinking of each engine management system as additional HP, you're missing the point. You're essentially asking how much HP to expect from a tune.

 

I did read it, so how much hp from a tune can be expected? Only about 5hp? That's an awfully expensive tune for 5hp or less IMO. If there are no gains from such an expensive tune job, then what's the point? The only gains most folks want from a "tune job" are hp and torque. The whole purpose of fine tuning our imports is to squeeze every last bit out of the engine as possible.

 

I can speak for the FI side of things, you're paying that money so you can increase boost and not go boom. As for NA, if you tuned it right it will yield the same results as the RRM piggyback, which IIRC is 10%.

 

there's also the whole "power under the curve" thing. if you compare the rrm tune dyno to a baseline dyno, there's more power being made in the midrange than stock as well as an increase in peak hp. saying you gained 5whp doesn't really mean much until you look at the full dyno.

 

You shouldn't be thinking of a tune in terms of gaining HP.

That's what they're saying.

You should think of it in terms of quality HP. Rather than gaining 5hp at peak (because who drives at 6k rpm that often?), you should think about the dyno curve - if the curve becomes bigger, then you have more power. Even if the peak HP stays the same, you will have TUNED for more power.

 

Thanks, Doug. I can stop banging my head on my desk now.

 

Yay clarity. Too bad the people at Auterra aren't thinking clearly. I ordered their product for Windows, everything on the box and in the box says Windows, yet the CD packaged with it says it's for Plam OS. Grrrrrrrrrrrr.

Time to go dyno (they better not f*** me over today like they did yesterday) so I can find my hp, tq, and A/F ratio.

 

How does cold weather affect Air Fuel ratio and fuel burning in the combustion chamber?

The colder the air, the denser it is, right? So, can you substract couple of % from the map during the winter?

 

the Long Term Fuel Trim is supposed to take care of that.

 

^^ i would just take a peak at your wideband every 20 degrees or so and make sure the LRFT IS taking care of it. Which is what i plan on doing...