Hey guys, some of these might seem a little basic. Bear with me

Buddy has a brand new Walbro pump at 190ltr/hr that he would give me for 50bucks.
RIght now i'm running AEM CAI, Magnaflow 2.25 catback, strut/sway. Am about to stick in A/F, voltmeter pressure gauges(for further modding).

My question is, would this 190ltr/hr pump be sufficient to run Stage 1 Turbo? I plan on boosting in the next bit, and since this car is mainly used street, not track I don't think I will be going any higher than Stage 1. Should I upgrade my fuel regulators as well?

Also, was thinking of maybe getting an RRM Piggyback ECU, but was curious if it is a worthwhile purchase.
Basically, what I'm asking is what I should make sure I have done top to bottom before the boosting in order to make sure I don't screw up my engine?

Thanks

 

Can't say for sure, but I think you'd be OK with it. RRM gives you a 255 with their kit, but I think it's really overkill. The turbo Eclipses ran 190, as memory serves.

Piggyback is definitely worthwhile. Best mod for the money (nothing makes power like chaning the computer's tune).

All you need to make sure you don't screw up your engine is this - BE CAREFUL. It sounds dumb, but it's true. Make sure you're getting adequate fuel. Make sure everything's working and nothing's leaking. Make sure you follow instructions. And don't overboost.

 

i personally wouldnt get the fuel pump untill you get the turbo, save the 50 bucks and put it twords the future purchase, and if you chose to get the RRM one then you dont even have to worry about buying the 190 due to it coming with the 255.

basically your car doesnt need that big of a fuel pump for the mods you have/plan to do since power wont increase a whole lot to even notice , so why not just save the $ and get the fuel pump when you go boosted?

as for the piggyback, yes, it is a worth while purchase, responds to everything you do to the car and RRM has taken the time to perfect it so you would definetly be getting your moneys worth, and when you go turbo and cant use it anymore, someone is always willing to buy it off you on the fourms

 

buy a piggyback for sure. im actualy seling mine, pm me if u want. ill sell for much cheaper than retail...

back on topic

i think the 19o will suffice for STAGE 1. but stage 2 u prob should upgrade as ur fuel system will be tapped a lot more with a richer fuel ratio and larger injectors etc.

 

u'll need the PB if you go STage 2.

 

Piggy V1 works with turbo

 

correct, but for running NA your going to want the V2, hence i think you should sell it, because your not going to really have use for the v1 piggyback unless you go stage 2 turbo, unless im wrong

 

if ur gnna bother with stage 2

go emanage or go home.

 

Please dont start an Emanage vs rrm piggy vs every other tuning method out there war. All have their plus sides and all have their downsides, let him do the research and choose which one he wants.

On another note, DO NOT get the narrowband. I bought one thinkin the same reasons you did....it won't give me precise, but it'll get me int he ballpark. Well here i am now with a wideband at my house about to be installed because the narrowband was worthless. Half the time the readings on the narrowband arent what the car is actually doing. Especially if you are NA i wouldn't even worry about watching your afrs unless you tune it using the piggy. Once you go turbo, spend the 250-300 for a wideband and you will be happier and safer.

And everyones correct, the fuel pump comes with the RRM kit, NA you wont need to upgrade, but if you feel the need to buy a fuel pump you might as well just go full 255lph, better overkill than anything.

 

Please don't start the narrowband is worthless war. I know I am but one, but I am tired of fighting. Think of it this way the narrowband is the reading off the factory o2. Every car out there has 2,3 or 4 o2 sensors. Every manufacturer uses a narrowband o2 sensor as input for their computers. If narrowband didn't work why does it exist? Why do you need to change your narrowband when it takes a crap to get your gas mileage back if it does't work? Once again we aren't tuning for a race around here to break the land speed record where 1/100th on the AFR makes or breaks us.

 

wideband > narrow band

if you have a wideband you can monitor your car way more accurately and tune. if you have a narrow band, you obviously can't monitor you AFR accurately. the 02 sensor in cars only has to read in a narrow range to adjust fuel from the preprogrammed map on the car. Go wideband or go home

 

Get a wideband and learn how to use it. This is important if you want to do custom tune. 190 pump is awaste of money for now.

ROAD/RACE

 

Honestly, you're the one that's always bringing up the widebands are overkill topic- you're basically starting the war yourself. Some of us are here to get the AFRs as close to a certain value as we can. So stop making that godddamned "narrowband is more than enough" argument already! A narrowband is like a switch that tells your ECU "everything's fine stick with this map" or "damn, something's wrong, dump fuel to protect the engine"
You

can not


reliably tune an engine with a narrowband O2 sensor. At best you will be able to say "I'm not messing it up". IF you COULD tune with just a narrowband then why would there be WIDEBAND O2 SENSORS in the first place? As to your argument about NBO2 being stock equipment for all manufacturers, several manufacturers use WBO2s as stock equipment on at least some of their vehicles- VW for one. Just because your tuning needs are satisfied with the lambda values (or blinky light) you get from NBO2 doesn't mean everyone else's will be.

 

All I ever argue is that it works.

 

I don't really care but Alchemist is right. Wideband is the only way to tune using corrected values (adjusted for heat) etc... It is the difference between being fast and damaging your engine. If you want to see colored light moving around, Narrowband! IF you want to tune spend the money for real and get a good wideband. IT will save you money in the longrun.

ROAD/RACE