Well look at it from mitsubishi's point of view. As far as they know you are the world's worst mechanic and you dropped a screw into the engine, poured transmission fluid in the crank, pissed in the gas tank, had sex with the PVC valve, or any number of things. If the engine is indeed fuxxored, you can get a used 4G94 for next to nothing.

 

nobody else has any other ideas?

 

sorry man pull it back off and reinstall it

 

Where did you get the manifold and throttle body? RRM? If so call them, or call them and ask for advice. I cant see you blowing your motor from that mod unless you connected a sensor up wrong or didnt connect one at all. You have two lines that go from the valve cover to the intake and manifold. They are vent lines for the motor. Check and see if your having alot of oil coming from them. Thats the only way oil would be able to get into the intake. Clean off your MAF sensor and plugs, reset the battery, and then try to start it. My guess is you missed a vac line or something like a vac leak is causing oil to be feed threw those lines.

 

I am not so sure a vacuum leak would cause excessive blowby like that. Could be wrong though.

I would change the oil to make sure their arent any signs of engine failure..ie.. flakes or chunks of metal.

Then I would clean off your MAF sensor and see if the engine will kick over.

Also check out the hose that runs fromthe valve cover to the air intake just infront of the throttle body. More likely then not that is where the oil came from.

 

Most likely a little bit of oil got onto the MAF and triggered to shut down the motor. It does the samething if water gets in your intake. I think your motor should be fine. Just find the source of oil.

 

yeah it might be that cause after it died the first time i realized that we didnt connect one of the connectors that go the the gold bracket on the front side of the manifold there is a black and red connector and we forgot to connect the red one. but i will try

 

This is Steve's friend...Jerry

I've had the car for the last 4 hours and have checked numerous things. I removed the throttle body, plugs, fuel rail, vacuum lines, etc. and reinstalled everything. The car will still not start.

I'm waiting on the wifey to get here so she can watch the kid while I check for spark and fuel delivery.

The MAF sensor is toast. I looked at it for the first time and the @$$ who had the car before bent some of the fins on the inside. It is also covered in oil which isn't good. The oil came from the PCV, which seems to be flowing too freely. I went to the stealership and picked up a new one, as well as a new EGR solenoid (got P0403 once yesterday) and new plugs (one was in bad shape). I will install those when the wifey gets here.

The intake manifold was installed correctly, using a new gasket. Steve cleaned it out the day it arrived and got most of the gunk out.

The throttle body is almost a no brainer install. RRM did a fabulous job with it....props to them. I have a 450 HP Supercharged Mercedes C32 AMG and some of the parts that I have put on didn't look as good and cost 20 times more. Same with the headers.....great job on those. They are better quality than my $1500 Evosport ceramic coated headers.

At any rate, I'm starting to lean towards the ECU being toast. I'm guessing that when the EGR solenoid went, it took the ECU with it. However, the ECU still throws a CEL when I disconnect various things under the hood. It also allows me to reset the codes, so I'm not sure.

If the car is getting fuel and the plugs are firing, then it could be that the timing belt slipped a notch or two and now timing is off. Does this car have a chain or a belt?


Hope the new information will spark some ideas....

Thanks for the help!


Here is a link to some of the work I have done on my ride...
http://www.renntechc32.com/


Jerry

 

It's a timing belt. I doubt the ECU is fried, but a sensor isn't out of the question. If the MAF is fuxxored, that would certainly do it but if it was messed up before it should have run right before he did any modifications.

 

Start with the MAF. It measures volumetric air flow. If the sensor inside the MAF is covered with oil then it will shut down the computer and wont let it fire. I sucked up water one time with a cold air intake and it shut down the computer. I had to let the car sit and the MAF dry out. Start little and work your way up. Do like i said early new plugs, wipe out the intake and MAF, reset the battery and then try to start it. It should start.

 

well me and my bro jerry have narrowed it down to the timing belt we have checked and double checked everything else and the only thing left is the belt. we talk to a mechanic yesterday and asked him if that would cause our problem. he said that if it did jump time the engine wouldnt start and it was fixable if it jumped more then 1 or 2 teeth then the block is fried. looks like im going to have to get a ported block. there is no way that im going to get engine might as well do it right and not have this happen again. looks like i will be saving for a while. and im out of a ride for the time bieng. well ill be around and it will give me a little time i guess to do alittle more research on the car. thanks everyone for your help.

 

Ported block? There are no ported blocks, there are ported heads.

 

damn that sucks, all from installing a intake manifold

 

Jerry here again...

News!

I'm about 70% sure that the car has jumped timing. It seems to be off about one or two teeth. The car is at the shop now and we know something by lunch time tomorrow.

We did a compression test on all four cylinders and number 1 is at 70psi and the last 3 are at 80psi.

I charged the battery all night and the car is almost starting. It catches for about a 1/2 second, then gives. It has no signs of bent valves or fried rings, so I'm assuming we are good to go.

However, if we did fry the top end, we will end up getting a RRM ported head and pistons / rings.

I'll keep you posted.

 

What's the verdict?