Well for me I'm sticking to synthetic. I did my 2nd oil change at 7k miles with synthetic mobil 1 5-20. Its really up to you. Its also how you drive your car. I had a 94 gallant that I was using synthetic oil for years. Before I gave it up, it had
291k miles!

 

I switched to "synthetic" after the first 1,000 miles. An engine should be broken in by then, if not well before that. If I did it too soon, I doubt I'll ever notice, though I full expect my engine to hit and surpass 200,000 miles (currently at 90k.)

I put quotes on synthetic because, until recently, I was running Mobil 1, which turns out isn't 100% synthetic as they advertise. I've since switched to Amsoil. And for the sake of completeness, on Mobil 1 I did oil/filter changes every 5,000 miles. On Amsoil, I'm changing the oil every 10k and filter every 5k.

 

I'm just speaking from my non-scientific experience. I didn't do my first oil change until 9000 miles or so, the oil came out still looking clean. I replaced it with Mobil 1 5w 30 because I mis-remembered the recommended viscoscity, but in Fla. it shouldn't matter, it's warm enough here. Anyway, at around 12,500 miles i noticed a valve clatter, so i went back to regular castrol gtx 5w 20. I don't think the clatter has really gone away, and I doubt it's a result of the synthetic. It's probably just a result of carbon buildup on the valves, much like GM vehicles, these are probably just prone to that and will be noisier than others. It doesn't seem to affect performance, and you only hear the clatter at idle. I think I'll stick with the gtx because it saves me money, and I think the filter is more important than the oil. I used a K&N the first time, and a mobil 1 filter the second time. They both appear to be identical with the exception of the nut on the end of the K&N to aid in removal

 

I beleive its because you went to a different weight, i think you may have to run 0w30 from now on. Going back to 0w20 will result in running oil if i got my understanding of oil weights correctly.

I am assuming you changed the oil yourself, ya you gotta pay attention to that its really important to use the correct oil or you can harm your engine big time.

In theory I am not sure if you could blend two oil weights to get a medium weight such as 0w25. But to reduce damange to your engine and wear you should ask the experts. but not your dealer or they will void your warranty for sure.

Attempt a engine flush and put in a 0w20 and monitor your oil levels. if its dropping faster then normal then you will have to increase your weight.

I am not sure, anyone else care to comment?

 

Maybe I F'd up. I took it off the lot and had the oil changed to Mobil 1 the next day. No revving until 500mi. Then I opened it up a little. It has 7900 mi now and due for its third change at about 10,500. I was planning on changing it every 3500 - 4000 mi.

Overkill?

 

there is no harm to how much you wish to overkill changingyour oil. Even extending it, so long as you use the right oil and the right high performance filter.

 

I know our manual recommends 5W-20 but just wondering what would be the disadvantages of using 5W-30? (also Mobil 1 synthetic)

 

I've been running AMSoil 0w-20 for about 4,xxx miles now and I haven't noticed any problems. I don't know if this really matters but the oil change was performed right before it started getting colder here. Now its freezing and the car is starting and running fantastically. This is coupled with AMSoil's filter as well.

 

from my understanding the effects of the 5w or 0w are not an issue they only refer to the oils viscoscity at different temps. 5w20 is best for situations of moderately cool to hot situations. while 0w20 is geared towards situations of extreme cold. (start ups)

The other number is where the potential problem is, because from what i think i know about it is that it has to do with the actually thickness of the oil / density. Please forgive me oil is the furthest thing from my pool of knowledge, but you can look it up on WIKIPEDIA. i am sure they will have it in better terms to understand.

But i know if you are running on 30 instead of 20 its possible that your engine internals would have felt additional stress due to the thickness of the oil. But i do not know to what degree things would be affected.

again run 5w20 for now and see how the car runs and if your are burning oil. if things did stretch then your 20 will seep thru your seals possibly and begin to burn.


I would talk to an oil shop they have the day to day experience to tell you what kinda damage to expect and maybe what to look for.

Hope that helps

 

I think this is getting overblown. Using a heavier oil will not destroy your motor. 5w20 is the recommended oil. Not "the only oil you may use."

 

So 5W-30 Mobil 1 should be ok? I think its just slightly more viscous since its rated for higher summer temperatures. But I'm sure, I've heard it can slightly affect your mileage and things like that.

 

Should be OK, yes. But as a rule, you probably want to stick to the 5w20. I know that the manual suggests a heavier oil for HOT climates, but Edmonton in Winter isn't what I'd call hot...

 

Definitely overblowing the issue. Mitsu recommends 5w-20 because it's a compromise between hot/cold climates. Most people will be fine running that year round. If you live in a particularly hot area, 10w-30 wouldn't be a bad idea in the summer (or even year round in the deep south), and particularly cold climates would be wise to consider 0w-20 in the winter. Personally, I'd avoid 5w-30, simply because the larger the viscocity range an oil tries to cover, the faster (supposedly) the polymers that control viscocity wear out.

 

Yeah I'm guessing 5W-20 for Edmonton climate would be better, with the long brutally cold winters. It doesnt even get upto 100F here in the peak of summers. Maybe 90-95F at the most, for a couple weeks at best. 5W-20 should be able to handle that quite well (I hope)

 

Yes, it will be fine.

Geez, I half want to delete this thread just because it's making everyone too scared.