Does OBX make cam gear? I know they show a lot of products that they haven't made any of yet. Kinda wetting the appetite on the market. If so, I was wondering if it's the same for the G93.

 

Bahamut, you're awesome, thank you for the tappet info. That's one less concern off my shoulders. Yes, my idle is dipping below the 700~ range and it is really quite annoying but after driving it around tonight, I know I must get used to it which could be a large part of it. As far as surges at idle, at start up and coming to a stop, the idle stabilizes for a second or two at 900~ +, but then starts dropping into the 600~ range again, when the lumpiness returns. Pretty much, I am willing to get an AFC wired in and hopefully drop the idle mixture to something less than the apparent pig rich. After that I suppose, the cam gear, I guess from either manufacturer would do, but if OBX is truly making a part, I'd love to go with that as it probably has measurements (hopefully accurate). How do either of you, bahamut and Ura respectively, feel about that: AFC before gear? Again, I'd appreciate the input immensely. One more thing that I'd like to mention is on the Unorthodox UDP from the G93, and the tech said that they are the same, the only thing that'd be different would be the belt sizes which is relatively easy to overcome.

 

I hope you are really getting the HKS AFC because APEXi' lowest tune is 1000rpms and from expierence 1000 and 700rpm are miles apart as far as the car is concerned and you may be rich at 1000-1500 or lean at 1000-1500 trying to get the idle right at 700. Its frustrating. As a moderator you probably already know but you will be the first, as far as i know, to play with a HKS AFC, I believe it has been mentioned by the EVO guys a few times but no real user info.

 

Sorry for not following the forums lately but I have been sick for the last and still 2 1/2 weeks so backed up oneverything especially emails.

The rough idle is consistent with camshafts and you definitly sound like you have a running rich / lean issue. What is probably happening is the air flow meter signal is varying a lot (I have seen this a lot in the E-Manage tunes we are doign) and what we have been doing is fitting the E-Manage systems and using the anti stall control to set the air flow reading at idle to a constant figure and then retune the mixtures.

A Cam gear will help a little but is not always necessary. Yuo can find though with fine tunign that it can help at idle and should not significantly affect the high rpm power outputs.

In australia all our lancer / mirages run adjustable tappets - the USA all run nowdays hydraulic which is why we always ask that question.

I would personally suggest grabbing a Greddy E-Manage and fitting that up. We do at least 2 of these a week now and they are brilliant and we thoroughly recomend them.

For everyones knowledge the stage 1 cams are still the same cam as we have used always which we are sticking with for the manuel cars.

It is only auto's that we are providing the slightly smaller grind due to the auto power designs and torque losses.

I hope this helps and I will keep track of this message and help yu uot more if I can. Feel free to ask away.

 

airline, I'm already pretty up to speed about the HKS Super AFR but thanks anyway, it looks like it'll most suit my needs for the time being. For the most part though, and the current time being, I'm mostly concerned as you mentioned it's really intuitive idle control features and the EIDS function. Dave, if I don't want to go with the whole E-Manage setup as I think it'd be overkill for my needs, do you think the HKS S-AFR would work sufficiently enough? I think my biggest problem would simply be the fact that the fuel dump at idle is just insane. To put it in a real world scenario: My fuel needle at idle, compared with driving down the freeway at 80 MPH in 5th gear at about 3k RPM, the fuel needle sits at idle is almost 1/8 lower. Concerning the cam gear, I never really considered it, but for now, it's on the back burner for the state of tune I want to achieve but I'll consider it further down. Thanks for the input.

 

I would get the basic E-Manage then as in its most basic form it is the same as an Apexi etc.

Then if you decide to go further later you can purchase the software and ignition/injection harness and then use its full capabilities later.

This is the main reason I like the greddy so much as you can slowly build yup your car around it.

I beleive in its basic form it is around the same price as a Apexi etc anyway

 

. . .

 

Back from the dead again and resurrecting my own thread, I'll be getting the HKS S-AFR sooner than later probably since so many places are offering it at really good prices (250~) right now. I just hope the idle is high enough (650 RPM) to be applicable to the AFR.

 

How's the progession on your mods?

 

Same ol' same ol'. Going to the S-AFR, but not entirely sure as to when I'll have it wired in. I've grown accustomed to the idle for the most part, but it will definitely make the car more liveable once I can lean it out. I'll be looking also into hotter plugs and some plug wires to hopefully get a better burn since I'm tired of having (as I said earlier) my fuel needle lower at idle than at 3k at 80MPH. Curious on Ura's input now that he has his reflash on how he changed any fuel corrections he's made if any. Read that for the first half hour, his car just would not cooperate but that's not entirely unexpected since it was basically in an infantile tuning stage. Had a strange occurence when I was particularly low on gas where I started the car and the RPM needle went, down to below 500 and bounced back up to about 2000 and did this two or three times and then just settled in. Maybe I accidently hit the gas pedal, but I doubt that since this occured right before I got gas, and while at stop lights, the idle wouldn't hold above say 500 and was rough. However, once I fueled, there wasn't a problem.

 

Has Uranium done a write up on what happened or no?

WADAD

 

I read something within the past few days where he commented on his car just not cooperating (read "stalling out") but the ECU simply needed to become more acquainted with his current state of tune. He also mentioned that it made up for some lost torque. Hopefully he can elucidate us sometime in the near future.

 

"my fuel needle lower at idle than at 3k at 80MPH"

Wow, is your FP straining at idle (pulling more fuel than necessary)?

My GSX FP dropped the needle a bit after blasting WOT. Then, it will rise steadily back to its normal previous position.

The only time my stock FP dropped badly when it went sour after 65K mileage (unknown cause - In one drive, my gas tank was 85% full. Moments later, it dopped to the bottom 1/4 tank. Scared the hell out of me since I was in the middle of downtown, nowhere close to home).


"Curious on Ura's input now that he has his reflash on how he changed any fuel corrections he's made if any. Read that for the first half hour, his car just would not cooperate but that's not entirely unexpected since it was basically in an infantile tuning stage. "

I'll find the topic and take a gander at it.



"Had a strange occurence when I was particularly low on gas where I started the car and the RPM needle went, down to below 500 and bounced back up to about 2000 and did this two or three times and then just settled in."

Curious thing.

A friend of mine had a bad MAF on his 97 G93. Of course, his pin connector is the same as the 2g GSX . . . bought a 2g GSX MAF. We plugged it up, a rough tune on the AFC, and fighting crazy idle from using the 1g TB and elbow. Also, this car had rodbearing problems (hear it at startup and at certain low rpm).

It might be a manual thing. His car dropped to 500 rpm and survive to pull up to 950 rpm. It keep doing this. The car only stalled if rpm dropped below 500.

On my auto, if I had hit 680 or lower, my car stalled. Stalling an auto tranny is plain embarassing as a tuner. Then again, the 97 G93 needs a lot of tuning issues.

A manual car seems more likely to correct itself. When rpm drops, it getting extremely rich enough to kill spark timing. Then, the ecu compensate from the MAF and curb the fuel a bit. That's why the constant surge. The ecu correcting itself via the crank angle sensor, pulling timing and what not from the info from the MAF.

 

Never thought about the fuel pump straining itself but that doesn't seem to out of whack as to why my fuel gauge is lower at idle, but that would run hand in hand with my rich condition at idle. The idle is stable with of course the slight lump and has never stalled, but it does hunt around 600-800RPM's from time to time. As for the really strange idle sequence myself and your friend encountered (as his condition sounds really similar), now that you mentioned the fuel pump, could the pump have just been starved and just been trying to grab fuel? Strikes me as being a possibility, and again, the car never stalled out, just was curiously rough during that freak occurence. Other than that, there's been nothing outlandish about the car's behavior...well other than the faint glimmer of performance. The car can actually pull in the upper realm of 4th gear. By the end of the year, hopefully I'll have all my engine performance issues (AFR/wires/plugs) sorted and hopefully only be needing the reflash to round out my performance mods, short of getting it strapped to a dyno and squeezing every last fraction of HP.

 

pjal, overall, are you happy with the cams? I'm very interested in installing the stage 1 also, as well as getting the NA reflash from RRM.

Also, I am thinking of installing the high compression pistons from RPW along with the cams, since I dont plan on going turbo or running nos with this car.

so overall im looking at:
High compressions pistons,
stage 1 cams,
RRM manual ecu flash.

Just looking for anyone's opinion on this, or if anyone has had direct experience with the pistons.