I'm really not going to get into your whole thing about building a high compression NA motor on this thread since this is focused about building a car around a mild cam (basic bolts and mild headwork) buildup, and hopefully as a guide for people looking for about the same thing. There have been threads concerning a more involved buildup but that's really not the route for 99.9% of people granted time/cost/effort/tuning. Overall, yes I'm happy with it, but I think if I was going to do it again, the cam would be the LAST thing on my list of pieces to acquire. I'd actually put the horse in front of the cart so to speak. The performance is great and driveability beyond idle is improved incredibly since the power is usually there when I demand it on downshifts unlike before.

 

Bitnode, you're going to need to get the valve springs as well if you are upping the compression. I also recomend getting an AFC or stand alone/piggy back to control the A/F ratio. I've experienced some weird fluctuations there. Above 4k RPM the engine will run really rich.

 

To respond to earlier questions....RRM reflash really improves the driveability of the car with the cam. I am able to rev to at least 7k and get to 120-130mph EASILY now. I know the cam gear tuning took a little from the top end, but that's better now. Car feels like a million now. Idle is smooth as butter (mostly from cam and AFC tuning).
Right before reflash install I zero'ed out the AFC so as not to inferfere with the reflash....once the engine FINALLY decided to take to the flash, I leaned out the top end a bit. I'll get it finished after the Dyno day on the 8th. Can't wait to see what kinda HP I'm laying down (scared it will be super low though).

 

glad to hear things are working out for you on the camshaft .We have fitted the same camshafts to the australia model cars and they definitly are responding nicer than the USA cars so I think it comes down to the Cali Spec tuning V Fed Spec tuning we have in australia.

 

Yes, US lancer doesn't have federal spec tuning.

uranium9v,
That's great. Then, it's what I've suspected. The Ecu adjusst its setting to richness and creating funny idle. It's all in the check and balance from the MAF, crank angle sensor, and O2 sensors.

PJ,
Have you hooked up your AFR and confirm Boe's suspicions that any sort of AFC don't work well to add more fuel? If it is, that can only be narrowed down to cali spec, hard coding.

I don't know if the reflash goes around the cali spec tuning or just lean out factory spec a bit . . . don't mean suffering from lean condition.

 

Haven't wired it in baha. Still forumlating my path for finishing up my engine modifications (TB, reflash, and wires) and that's unfortunately all about time and money. I have no reason to suspect the Road Race consortium's findings on the ECU's incompatibility with an AFC to be wrong since I'm pretty sure that's why they developed the entire reflash project in the first place: a viable method of fuel tuning that the ECU would take to. Offhand, I can't see any problem with not being able to add fuel since essentially the turbo reflash changes the fuel/ignition curves allowed within the programming of the ECU and they seem to be having much success. They couldn't make the ECU give more fuel than the ECU's max set point, but they could play with the curves to be more in line with where/when the turbo makes power. I'm not to bothered since I should only be looking to subtract fuel. I'm very eager to see Ura's numbers since hopefully until I get strapped down when all is said and done, I can use his numbers as a relatively close guestimate.

 

. . .

 

. . .

 

Okay, I'm bored and figured out the math.

http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET

Feel free to adjust them for your case. Also, a FPR can only do so much before blowing up the fuel line or getting the injectors stuck. Otherwise, here are my variables.

BHP: 200 crank HP

# of injectors: 4

BSFC: .45

Duty cycle: .8 (absolute max, unless getting from RCengineering. They can get it .85 to .92 or something like that)

PSI; 52 (FPR and fuel line - 100 psi is max before blowing up the line)

Using the above formula:
25.72 lbs/hr or 270cc . . . not bad of a guess on my part.
22.77 lbs/hr or 239cc @ 177 Fly HP
19.94 lbs/hr or 210cc @ 155 Fly HP

See the potential of bigger injectors, you can effectively build it up like a foundation to a house. It doesn't say you have that much HP, but it gives you a ballpark to shoot in supporting mods.

DIM uses his stock 210cc with his mods, and he was managing about 15.2 to 15.4 sec (he'll have to confirm his experience) . . . basically hanging around a SI. See the above fly HP rating, it's pretty darn close.



http://www.highlandsun.com/hyc/fuelrail/

I'll look at my nissan injectors. I know they're almost as fat as DSMs.

 

What happened at the Dyno day Uranium? I can't believe it has been 8 days and no word?

WADAD

 

Dyno day was cancelled because too many cars decided not to attend...I may just go down there and pay for it myself.
Was just explaining to wadadlig that my current bottleneck is my TB....I can tell the intake side of the process is lagging. I guess a bored TB and possibly the bored and matched intake manifold would complete the system.
On a side note Mitsuman...I'm still waiting to hear if you were able to get the dual TB system up and running with just an Emanage regulating it.

 

ok back from the dead,
how did everyone fair on this cam operation?? i am thinking about putting some in my car and have very limited funds so if someone could just tell me what was required that would b great and save me a lot of time. i already have a fpr, tb, intake, cat-back so from what i have read all i need is the cam and an s-afc and i am pure??

thanks
alex

 

just bought an rpw stage 2 cam and i was wondering if anyone has any pointers as to what to do about the install. sounds like you 2 had some trouble and i was hoping that maybe you could give me your apexi safc settins or something like that. i bought the cam and valve springs. they guy at visions said the cam gear wasn't needed but if my idle is crap i will go get it. any thoughts

thanks
alex

 

bump!!

 

Back from te dead!!!!

The cam gear isn't needed.

W/ any AFC device, you can tune out the loppy idle. For tuning issue, PM rhyzin for some tips. So far, the lancer and mirage tuning have proved polar opposite to most extent.