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Removing oil pan

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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:15 AM
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Removing oil pan

I'll be removing the oilpan this weekend. Is there a seal I have to worry about? Will I have to replace it? Tell me, tell me, tell me.

Anyone ever changed the oil pump on the 4G94?
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:17 AM
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Yea you are going to have to replace the gasket...
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by OwnedEvo10
Yea you are going to have to replace the gasket...
Ok thanks.
I can't find my service manuals... anyone has torque specs for when I put it back together?
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:37 AM
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you can prob just google search the torque specs...the search feature is def great..
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by OwnedEvo10
you can prob just google search the torque specs...the search feature is def great..
I know, but google and Lancers don't seem to like each other very much. I usually come empty handed lol And this message board is the one and only place where the question should be asked
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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There is no gasket for the upper or lower oil pan. It is merely liquid gasket. This diagram should help you.
Attached Thumbnails Removing oil pan-capture.png  
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 03:00 PM
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Correct. Upper and lower pans use gray RTV. To remove the oil pump the oil pan must be removed, along with the timing belt and crank timing gear. The oil pump bolts to the front of the block (the snout of the crankshaft goes through it). You'll need to replace the gasket behind it, the gasket between the pump and the pickup (the factory may use RTV i forget) and the front crank seal, which goes into the front of the oil pump. It is possible to do with the engine in the car but you will need to remove at least the front motor mount and exhaust pipe and drop the engine down.

Torque specs? Just use a 1/4" drive ratchet and don't go crazy.

Why do you want to replace the oil pump?
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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yes why are you replacing the oil pump? Are you experiencing anything thats warranting this type of work?
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 04:41 AM
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I'm considering a pump a failure. My oil light keeps coming on at idle.
I used to fix the issue by dumping some seafoam in the crank case, but this time it's not cutting it. I went through 2 cans already.

Before I start removing the pump though, I'll take the pan off and inspect the pickup tube. There might be a major sludge problem that Seafoam isn't able to eat through. Who knows... there might be something solid stuck on there.

The oil light comes on only when the engine/oil is warm.
Comes on only within 500 and 1100rpm.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Don't count on it dude. I mean its possible but enlarged oil clearances on the bearings are more likely the problem. Geroter-type oil pumps are pretty trouble free. While you have the pan off pull a couple of main and rod caps and look at the bearings. It would also be prudent to plastigage all the bearings while you're in there.

I'm guessing you already tried replacing the oil sender?
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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try the next step up in oil...say from 10-30, to 10-40, your wasting your time otherwise.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:01 PM
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^^

What he said. If that cures your oil light, the problem is almost definitely worn bearings/ crank journals. Heavy weight is oil is only a temporary fix and over time it will actually cause more wear. Engines for this car are not difficult to find or particularly expensive. You may want to look into a salvage longblock.

This is a pretty rare problem on these cars... Is your car stock or near stock? Do you beat on it? Rev it up cold? Have 200k miles? I'd be interested to hear the whole story because I've never seen a 4g94 with a low oil pressure problem.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 04:51 AM
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I really think I should get the pan off and inspect the pickup tube. Is it accessible by removing the lower oil pan, or do I have to remove the upper oil pan as well? I can't figure that out when I look at the "blown" picture senate6268 posted.

Before I try an heavier oil, I think I'll look into the oil pressure sensor. That could actually be the faulty part here if the pickup tube isn't clogged.

To answer your question mcgarvey... It's an 03, 110k and I've been driving it like I stole it for 6 years, it's nearly stock(intake manifold, piggy, exhaust). I've been bad with oil changes lately. I mean really bad.

Last edited by blaze_125; Apr 1, 2009 at 12:16 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mcgarvey
I'm guessing you already tried replacing the oil sender?
Ok, so I read your post again and I think I may have confused "oil sender", and "oil pressure sensor"

hmm... my service manuals are nowhere to be found... so...

How do I get to it?
Once I've located it, I guess I need to drain the oil before removing?
Is it a sensitive part? Can I clean the heck out of it with brake cleaner, rinse it really good and slap it back on?
Anyone know how much they run for? I'd call my nearest dealer, but they're retards and I try to avoid unnecessary phone calls.

Last edited by blaze_125; Apr 1, 2009 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 12:44 PM
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they make a whole lower eend gasket set this is the fel pro part number os30757. gives you the second oil pan gasket and than 3 tubes of rtv sealant for the top pan.
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