The deciding factor to me would be the condition of the engine oil. If it's milky looking, kinda like a chocolate milkshake, then there is coolant in the oil. If so, the bottom end is probably toast, and you should source a replacement engine. Otherwise, you could probably get away with having the head milled (assuming the block deck is straight). Additionally, look for scuffing on the cylinder walls- if any is present get an engine. Engines are available for this car cheap because many lancer drivers are young and dumb and smash up their cars so mommy will buy them a new one. As a result, there are tons of low mileage ones in the junkyards. As they said, auto trans makes pulling the engine very easy.

 

So I opted to just pick up a motor and now I have the new one and cant get the old one out lol.. I have everything disconnected. Motor and Tranny are separated but I cant get the room to swing it out. I have the tranny mounts disconnected and I am lifting from the pulley side. What do I need to do to get the clearance???? Thanks guys

 

so i was back out in the garage how do i get the torque converter separated from the flywheel that's all it seems to be??

 

i'm not sure on these cars i've only worked on mustangs and chevy trucks but there should be 4 bolts holding the t.c. to the flywheel

 

What are you guys using to clean the head, block, and top of the pistons???

 

This things driving me nuts. Anyone know what size the 4 bolts on the tourqe converter are?? 16mm is to small 17mm to big?? Ive tried standard as well with no luck.

slatermvp I just used carb cleaner and steel wool to clean it. But im not going to be using that motor anymore.

 

I was thinking 17mm unless someone has taken it out before and lost the original bolts. Can't remember if I had to go through the starter hole or of there was s plate on the bottom to remove. The bolt heads should be a really low profile which makes it aittle more difficult and the socket has to be completely flush to get a good bite.

 

I got the new motor in but now im stumped with the car in neutral it will roll forward but not backwards??As soon as i loosen the block and tranny from one another it will roll backwards?? Are they just improperly aligned??
There was actually a cover I removed on the bottom to access the torque converter bolts. I didn't see it the first time around because it was covered in road grime.

 

Rather strange. Are you positive the torque converter is seated completely? Do you mean you can roll the car forward 10 feet and as soon as you reverse it won't budge?

 

Pretty much. When I had the motor bolted down tight to the trans. I could roll the car forward freely but it wouldn't roll backwards. As soon as I lossened the motor and trans a little it would roll backwards but every so often as rolling i could here a clicking in the tranny. Would that just be I didn't get the torque converter seated correctly???

Also in talking to a friends dad he was saying that before bolting the torque converter to the flex plate you need to spin the torque converter into the trans all the way?? Is this how you get it to seat all the way?? Thanks 03lances for all your help. Im going to try again when I get off work tonight.

 

He is correct to want to spin the torque converter and usually it will drop down 2-3 times when its fully seated. However its a lot easier out of the car and point the tranny so the torque converter is up while spinning. Separating the engine and tranny and just trying to spin it and drop it into place will work but might take more time and you will want to be pushing on the converter as you spin is to seat it all the way in.

 

that is true , u might have to spin it 10 or 15 times depends on how stubborn the converter is lol. also did u fill the converter up wit tranny fluid before installing it? do that if u didnt, dont want a dry start.

 

I pulled the motor back out and reseated the torque converter. once I did that everything has been fine, runs and drives great again. Thanks for everybody's help.