How about this one guys:

Step one-
Obtain an inductive timing light and measure your stock BASE timing setting.

Step two-
Pull off lower timing cover (you'll have to remove the accessory belts and crankshaft accessory pulley).

Step three-
Remove crank angle sensor[CAS] (little black sensor with wires that is pointing at the crank).

Step four-
Slot the plastic mounting point on either side of the mounting holes for the CAS. Slot it in a semi arc so you can properly have the CAS facing the little "wheel" that it uses to measure timing.

Step five-
Replace the CAS and the crank pulley while leaving the lower timing cover off.

Step six-
Measure the BASE timing again and adjust the position of the CAS while again checking the BASE timing. Do not try to get more than 5 degrees advanced timing without the 92 or 93 octane stuff. Also do not go over 10 degrees more advanced than stock.

Step seven-
Secure everything and put your car back together.

Step eight-
Enjoy free power but remember to always fill up on the expensive stuff now...

Disclaimer: Conduct this at YOUR OWN RISK. I will not be held liable/responsible for any damage you cause by foolishly attempting modifications to your car on my whimsical suggestions alone!!!!!

 

Uh... DIAM, you do house calls?

Gonna have to read up on advancing timing now. Damn you for piquing my interest!

 

Did you figure out how people in PR do it on their 97 mirage? Or was it self-evident via deductive reasoning.

http://www.lancerforums.com/forums/s...&threadid=3499

He did offer for people in TX.

 

Sounds like somhing I would definately be interested in doing DIM. Just curious as to what kind of horsepower gains could be expected? And could there be any adverse effects? I have a friend that is an auto mechanic so getting it done is not a big deal. I just wanna know what I would be getting in to

 

Just want to make a small modification to what DIM said.

Step One should be do this on a Dyno.

 

Well if you advance it too far you could have some adverse effects, ie engine ping/detonation...it should give you a couple HP...

 

If you only get pinging/detonation from advancing the timing too far you can try a higher octane gas.

REALLY if you advance the timing too far you can expect a LOSS in power because you are trying to ignite the fuel too far from the compression stroke so the fuel is already starting to burn and slowing down piston speeds making the compression stroke less effective (as well as using too much energy before the power stroke). I would say to never go past 15 degrees of timing advanced beyond stock and if you can dyno the car that would show how much power you can gain. Just remember that Mitsubishi tuned the 4G9X series of engines to be conservative and happy on 86/87 octane so you could definitely expect a few HP from this (and using 92/93 octane at the same time). Of course high octane by itself will do nothing for you...

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'm gonna give that a shot this weekend. I'll post back and let you know how it goes. Don't have access to a dyno so there won't be any hard numbers but I can definately tell you if it feels different.

Spc

 

forgot to add that you should mark the original starting position if you ever need to set it back to stock.

 

Damn dude, now look what you've done--I always swore i wasn't going to register on the lancer forums.

That particular trick doesn't work on 2G Eclipses for a number of reasons. I wish I had paid more attention to this topic because I can't quite remember why right now. It might have something to do with the fact that the 2G CAS involves a trigger plate with a metal protrusion that passes between two magnetic poles. Don't know if you could easily rotate the CAS. My lack of intimate knowledge under the timing belt cover is probably showing here.

For this particular trick to work for us, we (being 2G Eclipse owners, like myself) have to switch to a 1G CAS (preferably the hallman sort that came with the late 1G) which is mounted up by the head rather than down under the timing cover where the 2G CAS is.

Only reason I bring this up is because it seems that Mitsu has been making it a pain in the butt for Eclipse owners to mess with base timing mechanically. Can't do it on the 3G Eclipse I4 either, and the V6 quickly compensates for any rotation you make in the distributor to bring timing back to expected values.

So has anyone tried this trick yet on a new Lancer? I wouldn't be too shocked if it didn't work. But then, I know nothing about these cars--maybe this engine is old news (previous mirages use it at all?) so you know something about it that I don't and I just look stupid now.

 

Only story I have to changing things is that the car is adaptive.

Base rev limitation will adapt itself after around 100 miles of driving.
Mine rose almost 100RPM I think maybe more.

Also when I tried to raise idle speed the ECU did something incredibly funky I had it raised to 800 the ECU managed to surpass that however and it made the car run soo low it was almost stalling out 200-300RPM(reset that today)

 

I have only heard of guys in Puerto Rico doing this modification. I have not personally tried it myself (I have the e-manage so I don't need to do this).

BUT, on the 93-96 mirage I know you have to ground out a connector to set base timing...and on all mirages you have to also mess with connectors (unless you have a diagnostic tool) to set the base idle. No one will know until they actually try it...I know that I can change my valve timing (with adj. cam gear) and I have no problems with the reference between CAS and the cam sensor [those two sensors work together to figure out some of the timing such as when cyl 1 is at TDC to determine fuel timing and ignition timing].

 

Yeah, I wonder how the ECU would handle it. The damn thing's too quick to fix itself.

My idle's gona back to normal and has been for about a week now, hence my not posting the throttle cable tightening thread. No sense in making an adjustment if the ECU's gonna recompensate for it anyway. Stupid computer. What's it ever done for me?

 

so uh...has anyone tried this yet? I saw something on EBAY for $4 and said it could be done in like 5 minutes...

 

Don't do the ebay mod. It really does suck.