valve seals
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 6
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From: Houston, TX
valve seals
Hey guys im new to mitsubishi but not forums at all. I joined here to seek some information on an engine im unfamiliar with (for now) just wanted to say whats up first. a little bit about the vehicle..Its a 2002 lancer ES (4g94) with 176,2xx miles
1. Im going to change the valve seals on my wifes 02 lancer ES (4g94) im assuming. Is there any special tools or anything i should know before i start this project? I have changed springs and seals on my 7.3 diesel before and that was a peice of cake but ive never worked on a OHC motor before.
2. couple weeks ago i pulled the spark plug wires to have a peek at the top of the spark plugs and the "tube" where the spark plug sits has a decent bit of oil in there.... im going to be changing the valve cover gasket while i have the valve cover off and i was wondering if there are some seals i can change to prevent this from happening again?
3. The motor just developed a ticking noise. think it is becuase her engine is low on oil and the hydraulic lash adjusters are not working properly. if i top the engine back up fix all the seals, yada, yada could the ticking stop?
oh and can someone point me in the direction for the best price on a seal kit?
1. Im going to change the valve seals on my wifes 02 lancer ES (4g94) im assuming. Is there any special tools or anything i should know before i start this project? I have changed springs and seals on my 7.3 diesel before and that was a peice of cake but ive never worked on a OHC motor before.
2. couple weeks ago i pulled the spark plug wires to have a peek at the top of the spark plugs and the "tube" where the spark plug sits has a decent bit of oil in there.... im going to be changing the valve cover gasket while i have the valve cover off and i was wondering if there are some seals i can change to prevent this from happening again?
3. The motor just developed a ticking noise. think it is becuase her engine is low on oil and the hydraulic lash adjusters are not working properly. if i top the engine back up fix all the seals, yada, yada could the ticking stop?
oh and can someone point me in the direction for the best price on a seal kit?
Last edited by oscs; Oct 28, 2012 at 07:49 AM.
Since you have to pull the lash adjusters out to change the valve seals why not bleed them too. You would bleed them just like any other hydraulic lash adjuster. Are you going to pull the head to change the seals or do you have an overhead spring compressor? Dont forget you probably want to use compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valves up if your not pulling the head.
Also just buy a vave cover gasket kit. You actually can probably get one that has the valve seals with it plus it will have spark plug tube gaskets to stop oil from getting down the tube.
Also just buy a vave cover gasket kit. You actually can probably get one that has the valve seals with it plus it will have spark plug tube gaskets to stop oil from getting down the tube.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Since you have to pull the lash adjusters out to change the valve seals why not bleed them too. You would bleed them just like any other hydraulic lash adjuster. Are you going to pull the head to change the seals or do you have an overhead spring compressor? Dont forget you probably want to use compressed air in the cylinder to hold the valves up if your not pulling the head.
Also just buy a vave cover gasket kit. You actually can probably get one that has the valve seals with it plus it will have spark plug tube gaskets to stop oil from getting down the tube.
Also just buy a vave cover gasket kit. You actually can probably get one that has the valve seals with it plus it will have spark plug tube gaskets to stop oil from getting down the tube.
thanks for the reply,
Yes i plan on keeping the head attached. When i upgraded my valve springs in my 7.3 i just made sure the motor was at TDC before pulling the springs. Would that work with this motor as well? if not can you elaborate on using compressed air to hold the valves up? im assuming you mean "filling the cylinder with compressed air to prevent the valves from dropping" if in fact that is what you mean do you have any info on what parts i would need?
oh and forgive me for my ignorance but i am unfamiliar with lash adjusters, what is a good way to bleed them? Also do you guys have a vendor section on here? id like to purchase the parts from a subscribing vendor on the website as apposed to a random company on line.
Last edited by oscs; Oct 28, 2012 at 09:31 AM.
Yes there is a vendor marketplace on here. I suppose you probably could use TDC, you would just have to be sure to only do cylinder #1 and #4 while at tdc then rotate the crank a half turn to do #2 and #3. As far as using compressed air yes using it to hold the valves up. For me I have a compression testing kit that uses quick release hoses that connect to the gauge so I would just connect my hose to my compressor and set the regulator low like idk 10-20 psi?
The lash adjusters fit inside the rocker arms so when you pull those off you can use a magnet to pull them out one by one. I think I use a paper clip or something similair in size to push the little retaining ball inside the lash adjuster then you compress it over and over in a bowl of diesel to flush everything out. You want to have 3 bowls full of diesel and extra to change out the bowls every so often. The first is basically the wash cycle, the second is doing the same thing but is more like the rinse and then the third is used only to fill the lash adjusted with deisel so you can reinstall it without air bubbles in it. Make sure the final bowl is completely clean of any contaminents you dont want stuff clogging up the lash adjuster right after cleaning them. The deisel will be flushed out when you start the car for the first time.
You can watch videos on you tube on how to clean hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters its all the basic same procedure.
The lash adjusters fit inside the rocker arms so when you pull those off you can use a magnet to pull them out one by one. I think I use a paper clip or something similair in size to push the little retaining ball inside the lash adjuster then you compress it over and over in a bowl of diesel to flush everything out. You want to have 3 bowls full of diesel and extra to change out the bowls every so often. The first is basically the wash cycle, the second is doing the same thing but is more like the rinse and then the third is used only to fill the lash adjusted with deisel so you can reinstall it without air bubbles in it. Make sure the final bowl is completely clean of any contaminents you dont want stuff clogging up the lash adjuster right after cleaning them. The deisel will be flushed out when you start the car for the first time.
You can watch videos on you tube on how to clean hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters its all the basic same procedure.
Last edited by 03lances; Oct 28, 2012 at 11:41 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Yes there is a vendor marketplace on here. I suppose you probably could use TDC, you would just have to be sure to only do cylinder #1 and #4 while at tdc then rotate the crank a half turn to do #2 and #3. As far as using compressed air yes using it to hold the valves up. For me I have a compression testing kit that uses quick release hoses that connect to the gauge so I would just connect my hose to my compressor and set the regulator low like idk 10-20 psi?
The lash adjusters fit inside the rocker arms so when you pull those off you can use a magnet to pull them out one by one. I think I use a paper clip or something similair in size to push the little retaining ball inside the lash adjuster then you compress it over and over in a bowl of diesel to flush everything out. You want to have 3 bowls full of diesel and extra to change out the bowls every so often. The first is basically the wash cycle, the second is doing the same thing but is more like the rinse and then the third is used only to fill the lash adjusted with deisel so you can reinstall it without air bubbles in it. Make sure the final bowl is completely clean of any contaminents you dont want stuff clogging up the lash adjuster right after cleaning them. The deisel will be flushed out when you start the car for the first time.
You can watch videos on you tube on how to clean hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters its all the basic same procedure.
The lash adjusters fit inside the rocker arms so when you pull those off you can use a magnet to pull them out one by one. I think I use a paper clip or something similair in size to push the little retaining ball inside the lash adjuster then you compress it over and over in a bowl of diesel to flush everything out. You want to have 3 bowls full of diesel and extra to change out the bowls every so often. The first is basically the wash cycle, the second is doing the same thing but is more like the rinse and then the third is used only to fill the lash adjusted with deisel so you can reinstall it without air bubbles in it. Make sure the final bowl is completely clean of any contaminents you dont want stuff clogging up the lash adjuster right after cleaning them. The deisel will be flushed out when you start the car for the first time.
You can watch videos on you tube on how to clean hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters its all the basic same procedure.
right on, I appreciate the help man. I got the parts ordered and i checked out a couple videos on you tube so i know what it looks like under the valve cover now. It looks pretty strait forward.
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