ive been reading about fuel mapping, and im wondering how much HP can you actually get from changing your fuel map with just a stock 4g94 setup?
what kind of tools would i need to tune it?

if its too difficult who could tune it?

would anyone know how much it might cost?

(i searched and didnt find the results i wanted. mainly evo stuff)

 

I don't understand why everyone expects to be able to easily quantify hp gains or benefits by hp gains.

There's no need to alter your fuel map on a stock Lancer unless you're dying to spend money.

Try reading the existing threads to get a better idea. In fact, a vague notion of how EFI works would give you a much better understanding of what you're asking as well.

 

so in other words you dont know?

i dont understand why you would post unless you knew how to do it, maybe had a fuel map, or had a link to such information. and pickleknock what a waste of a post. i dont know anything about full maping thats why i posted. oh and pickleknock...

 

First off, you're overreacting. Second, you've got your first and only unofficial warning about insulting members...whether it's staff or another member if you do it again you will be officially warned. Third, you didn't say WHAT you plan on using to map. And fourth youre talking to the only person on these forums whose Lancer is running a standalone ECU (though it's not running at the moment). I've done a good bit of work on my own ECU, and I can almost definitely answer your question with reasonably accuracy.

Asking how to map fuel is like asking how to launch a rocket into space. Without at least a rudimentary understanding of physics the answer is useless. READ UP ON EFI and try refining your question.

You say fuel mapping so casually but you're missing the complexity of it all. Your question is too general and evidences a lack of knowledge of EFI. Trust me...read EVERYTHING you can get your eyes on. Reflashes change you mapping, but I seriously doubt you have a computer to reflash your own ECU otherwise you wouldn't be asking this. Piggybacks can make basical fuel changes, but they're not really remapping, and the piggyback you choose could mean different methods OR it could mean that I don't know at all. And finally, standalones such as the AEM EMS or Haltech ECU's require COMPLETE mapping.

On top of that there's really very little reason to remap a stock Lancer. You may be able to eek out a little fuel economy and a little power, but you won't really see the benefits of making fuel changes until and unless you make some mods that really require changes that the ECU can't make on its own. It does its best to keep you stoich.

So if you want to rethink the question go ahead and read up. I'm here to keep the forums in order and to help answer your questions. There's a reason I stickied the "Good Little Read" thread in the Engine Tech forums. This is a sub-link from the link in that thread.

http://www.sdsefi.com/techtheo.htm

More from the same link: http://www.sdsefi.com/techchip.htm

 

You can make anywhere from 2 - 20 hp just off a fuel mapping and timing adjustment for a vehicle. That's the simplest answer that can be given without getting into the technical ends and making this a huge technical thread (which wouldn't be a terrible thing)

Otherwise I second everything that Andrew (HobieKopek) said.

Later.

Steve

 

To remap, you need a computer, a dyno, and a rather expensive interface. Assuming you understand everything you're doing, you could do it by testing and reprogramming, which would cost you thousands of dollars. Luckily, Rob at Road///Race did some testing himself and put a program into the piggyback. Like HobieKopek said, that's not completely remapping, but it is probably the best thing for people like us, who don't have tons of cash and knowledge to fine tune a car. And I also agree, if someone wants to remap, they would want to do it after adding all of the other mods first, as the best map to use changes with each different input.

 

I like the piggy back it may not a remapping but still feels nice.

 

Actually proper tuning should not be done on a dyno. The dyno simply does NOT simulate road conditions accurate enough to tune properly for your driving/racing. Use a run on a dyno to determine what AFR generates peak power in your vehicle (somwher between 12 and 13 typically) and then once that has been identified tune on the street. Tune to hit that AFR under acceleration in each gear, and then advance your timing as much as possible while still being safe from knock. But yes you do need a laptop (dell has some for like 600 bucks) and the system like E-Manage (about 400 with all the stuff you need) and then you'll be all set. So for about 1000 bucks you can raw tune your vehicle and get about 20 hp out of it.

 

Street tuning and data logging are definitely preferable imo, but the dyno is hugely helpful getting you started, and (of course) getting an "accurate" output figure.

 

Yep. You need the dyno to figure out where things should be about for maximum output, and then try to tune to those points when you are on the street. It is also the only real "scientific" measurement of your output at the end. Which is funny because your peak power output on a dyno will not be the same as your peak output on the street. But it is the one way to control enough variables and so forth to try and quantify things.

I'll be *** deep in your world shortly Andrew. My MP3 will arrive in the next 2 days and then I am in the world of standalone fuel management! Time to do more tuning

 

It's not as bad as I make it sound when you don't have mechanical problems. You have a suprising amount of room to play. GLHF!

 

The maps are already mostly laid down. I need to trim them and adjust for temperature and so forth, but in general things are set to go... so that makes my life pretty easy overall..