Ground Fusion Grounding Cables
Originally Posted by elpedro
ok, i just installed my ground kit based on the diagram shown above. I connected the neg on the battery and daisy-chained it to the right side chassis, to the other engine hoist bolt on the head (the one without the lift eyelet), to the transmission bell housing, to the intake manifold, then to the left side chassis. Did i miss any spots?
Fox
PS- as far as all of the places to ground to I don't feel like I have the right to tell anyone what Tyler grounded as he has done the research on the grounding points for full effect. It's not my information to give out. All I can tell you is that my kit from Ground Fusion is effective.
Sup Fox, as you know I am just 5 miles from you and I was wondering if I could just take my car to Tyler and if he could hook it up about to install my new bored fuel rail and waiting for my exhaust, intake manifold, headers, and then finally the stage 2 turbo and I think this mod will help me out in the long run. thnaks for your help and the cool stuff you are able to find
Chris
Chris
This is similar to making sure you have a good ground with an amp, if you have a good ground then overall the car is going to run more efficient if the components are not struggling to get power. Im not saying that a grounding kit = hp, but i could def see it improving gas mileage a little bit and idle better
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From: Kansas Now/Louisiana/Connecticut
Originally Posted by Shingen
... and his wires are crimped not soldered for a much better connection. Again that's Ground Fusion I can't stress this enough Buy from him.
Fox
Fox
your definately going to have to explain this one
Originally Posted by GreenPsycho
wait wait wait, are you saying a crimped connection is BETTER than a soldered one?
your definately going to have to explain this one
your definately going to have to explain this one
Fox
Originally Posted by nditechusmc
Sup Fox, as you know I am just 5 miles from you and I was wondering if I could just take my car to Tyler and if he could hook it up about to install my new bored fuel rail and waiting for my exhaust, intake manifold, headers, and then finally the stage 2 turbo and I think this mod will help me out in the long run. thnaks for your help and the cool stuff you are able to find
Chris
Chris
Fox
Thanks think I might get the ground kit through mail the way the weather is getting I might enjoy a 30 minute project under the hood lol gonna have alot of those days pretty soon. Thanks again
Chris
Chris
Originally Posted by Centrylancer
i might get a set when i go to d.c.
i want the same thing in blue, and i anyway have to go to northern v.a.
i want the same thing in blue, and i anyway have to go to northern v.a.
Fox
I emailed Tyler today to see what's up with the kit. This is what he said,
So if you want him to put it on for you he will charge 50 bucks! Any of you guys that are in the Northern VA, MD, DC area get in on this!
Attached are all of the colors offered and pics of my kit are on the first page of this thread if you guys need to see it again... If you have any questions just ask and I'll try to answer as best I can. Or go to Ground Fusions site.
Fox
Originally Posted by Tyler
I will produce this kit and hope to have it ready to ship shortly.
I do take paypal and the kit will be 74.99 plus shipping. If they show up
with cash and want me to put it on it will be $50.
Take care.
Thanks
Tyler
I do take paypal and the kit will be 74.99 plus shipping. If they show up
with cash and want me to put it on it will be $50.
Take care.
Thanks
Tyler
Attached are all of the colors offered and pics of my kit are on the first page of this thread if you guys need to see it again... If you have any questions just ask and I'll try to answer as best I can. Or go to Ground Fusions site.
Fox
E-mailed Tyler yesterday very quick response anyway this is the info he gave me: It will be $74.99 plus shipping. Its not quite shippable yet. I have to complete the install instruction.I will let you know once its completed. I expect that to be in the next 2
weeks.
Thanks
Tyler
Well I am going to order my kit liked his response very quick and to the point no BS. I have mailed other performance sites and I might "might get a response in like 2 months. Thanks Fox you found a winner. ( Since you mailed him about an actual install I might just take it up that way) Again thanks
Chris
weeks.
Thanks
Tyler
Well I am going to order my kit liked his response very quick and to the point no BS. I have mailed other performance sites and I might "might get a response in like 2 months. Thanks Fox you found a winner. ( Since you mailed him about an actual install I might just take it up that way) Again thanks
Chris
Originally Posted by nditechusmc
Well I am going to order my kit liked his response very quick and to the point no BS. I have mailed other performance sites and I might "might get a response in like 2 months. Thanks Fox you found a winner. ( Since you mailed him about an actual install I might just take it up that way) Again thanks
Chris
Chris
If you do get to go up there you might even see his IS300... when I went he was having the interior door panals covered in carbon fiber so I didn't get to see it.
Fox
This is a quote from pathstar1 from this site: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/dir...index=.ef21d38
"What do grounding kits do? Well, that depends ;-). If you look under the hood you will see the battery is mounted on the body and grounded to it and the engine. The alternator is mounted on the engine and therefore grounded to it. There is usually a strap from the engine to the body (ground). Often, all these grounds are at different places on the body. Now, think of what flows in these ground paths, current wise.
Headlamps - 7 to 14 Amps
Engine - 6 Amps
Radio/stereo system - 5-15 Amps
Taillamps/instrument lamps - 3 Amps
Battery charging current - 10 to 40 Amps
It all adds up - say 20 to 30 Amps peak. Now pass that through the body with, say, 0.1 ohm resistance to the alternator (the source of all that current). The voltage drop would be current times resistance - say 20 X 0.1 = 2 volts. Not much you think? Well, consider what the ECU does. It measures the O2 sensor output and acts on changes in that voltage of 0.05 V or so. The ECU also relies on other inputs from sensors and acts on level changes of 1 Volt and less.
What the grounding kits try to do is minimize the differences in ground potential relative to some "standard" point in the car so the ECU has reliable input. This has improved operation on several cars. My 1993 RX-7 had a terrible "hesitation", cured by a grounding improvement.
Why don't the manufacturers install such improved grounding when they make the vehicle? First, they may not have the time to find there is a problem, what with production timelines. Second, the solution often involves large expensive cable, that may require labour intensive installation. It increases weight and cost, perhaps putting them out of their target range. The vehicle may work "well enough" without the proper grounding."
Thought that might help.
"What do grounding kits do? Well, that depends ;-). If you look under the hood you will see the battery is mounted on the body and grounded to it and the engine. The alternator is mounted on the engine and therefore grounded to it. There is usually a strap from the engine to the body (ground). Often, all these grounds are at different places on the body. Now, think of what flows in these ground paths, current wise.
Headlamps - 7 to 14 Amps
Engine - 6 Amps
Radio/stereo system - 5-15 Amps
Taillamps/instrument lamps - 3 Amps
Battery charging current - 10 to 40 Amps
It all adds up - say 20 to 30 Amps peak. Now pass that through the body with, say, 0.1 ohm resistance to the alternator (the source of all that current). The voltage drop would be current times resistance - say 20 X 0.1 = 2 volts. Not much you think? Well, consider what the ECU does. It measures the O2 sensor output and acts on changes in that voltage of 0.05 V or so. The ECU also relies on other inputs from sensors and acts on level changes of 1 Volt and less.
What the grounding kits try to do is minimize the differences in ground potential relative to some "standard" point in the car so the ECU has reliable input. This has improved operation on several cars. My 1993 RX-7 had a terrible "hesitation", cured by a grounding improvement.
Why don't the manufacturers install such improved grounding when they make the vehicle? First, they may not have the time to find there is a problem, what with production timelines. Second, the solution often involves large expensive cable, that may require labour intensive installation. It increases weight and cost, perhaps putting them out of their target range. The vehicle may work "well enough" without the proper grounding."
Thought that might help.
I installed the kit yesterday, and I noticed a real difference from the moment I turned the engine over.
The idle quality was apparent right away. The lights don't dim as much when my system is hitting hard. Overall this was a good mod, and well worth the money and effort. I also noticed the car accelerating a bit smoother. I have not tested the fuel efficiency, but I will keep an eye on it.
The idle quality was apparent right away. The lights don't dim as much when my system is hitting hard. Overall this was a good mod, and well worth the money and effort. I also noticed the car accelerating a bit smoother. I have not tested the fuel efficiency, but I will keep an eye on it.


