Now what should I do?
Jun 7, 2005, 04:09 PM
#1
Now what should I do?
Well, it's summertime again and for me, that means full time work and time to mod up the Lancer. Last summer I purchased my AEM cold air intake, full catback exhaust, wheels and tires, and header. Those were my largest upgrades. Now I'm ready to add some more performance mods. I will NOT get a piggyback - I've owned one and had nothing but problems - even shipped it off to RRM twice to get fixed. Anyway, I'm gonna be moving to Ann Arbor, MI in August where its cold to say the least. Enough introduction, on the business.
Here are my thoughts of performance mods I would like to get this summer:
*Bored Throttle Body (RRM ~$300)
*Bored 4G93 Intake Manifold (DIY or buy it, ~$100-$200) or 4G94 for more low end torque
*Greddy e-Manage (~$180-$200)
*RPW FSE FPR (~$250)
Possible Suspension Mods:
*Upgraded Sway bar and perches
*Rear Strut Bar
*Lower Tie Bar (is it really necessary?)
*Full Coilovers (ditch the springs before the struts are blown)
These are what I've researched and feel will give me the biggest NA gains. Any and all feedback is welcomed and even encouraged
Is there anything I'm neglecting? Is there something you would add to the list? And what would be the most efficient order to get the above items? Thanks in advance for your contribution. 
Here are my thoughts of performance mods I would like to get this summer:
*Bored Throttle Body (RRM ~$300)
*Bored 4G93 Intake Manifold (DIY or buy it, ~$100-$200) or 4G94 for more low end torque
*Greddy e-Manage (~$180-$200)
*RPW FSE FPR (~$250)
Possible Suspension Mods:
*Upgraded Sway bar and perches
*Rear Strut Bar
*Lower Tie Bar (is it really necessary?)
*Full Coilovers (ditch the springs before the struts are blown)
These are what I've researched and feel will give me the biggest NA gains. Any and all feedback is welcomed and even encouraged
Is there anything I'm neglecting? Is there something you would add to the list? And what would be the most efficient order to get the above items? Thanks in advance for your contribution.
Last edited by Z_Lancer_Man; Jun 7, 2005 at 04:12 PM.
Jun 7, 2005, 04:18 PM
#2
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Sounds good. IMO i would get the IM first, then the FPR and emanagment at the sametime. I would get the throttle body last, if at all. Sorry to here you have had problems w/ the pb, I like mine, but would also rather have emanagment. Also alot of people have good things to say about the g93 IM, I don't have the money to spend on another one but did port my g94 and there was a noticable diff., alot smoother acc.
Jun 7, 2005, 04:23 PM
#3
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There really isn't much reason for you to buy a FPR if you're not using forced induction, throttle body gains are minimal, and e-manage isn't very beneficial either unless you actually have something to tune. I think you're still well within the range of the ECU's capabilities.
Jun 7, 2005, 04:38 PM
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4g93 and RPW Cams and Cam gears with flywheel, then emanage
i know they're not on your list, but it give you something to tune.
i know they're not on your list, but it give you something to tune.
Last edited by wingnut17; Jun 7, 2005 at 04:41 PM.
Jun 7, 2005, 04:51 PM
#7
I've thought about that, but I've read some dissapointing threads on the results of the cam. Doesn't seem to do much.
Originally Posted by wingnut17
4g93 and RPW Cams and Cam gears with flywheel, then emanage
i know they're not on your list, but it give you something to tune.
i know they're not on your list, but it give you something to tune.
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Jun 7, 2005, 05:04 PM
#8
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The emanage can be used without higer-end mods. and I actually encourage it's use while the car is still manageable 
But it's gonna cost you more than $200 unless you know someone who's selling one for cheap. Then the only way to truly tap it's capabilities is with the support tool- add between $40 (pirate market) to $140 (if a legit source will even sell you one- but there are a few who will). then you need a laptop or profec (which retail at about $550 IIRC)
It's pricey but worth it to get maximum control of the ECU.
There's no noticable loss in torque between the G93 and G94.... unless you drive around at 1K RPMs a lot
TBs can probably be had cheaper from a local shop, and the gain isn't as spectacular as you're going to expect. Especially before you've done the other big stuff.
If you're going to drive a lot, I can not recommend tein coilovers enough. Nuff said.
If you autocross, bars are definitely needed: front strut, rear sway, rear strut and possibly trunk- if you're super serious. Stay away from rear tie bars with the coilovers. They tend to make the rear squirrley and it has a tendancy to break loose suddenly during fast cornering. Not good.
Stage 1 cam is worth looking into (and I don't think the adjustable cam gear is necessary. Just move the crank ahead to the full 8 BTDC while you have the cam gear off). It's the tuning that makes them seem like you get less than what you're paying for. I assure you there is lots of power to be had but most guys aren't taking the time to tune everything properly. Although, right now I can't say as how I blame them
Flywheel? Why? There are true-to-life racing and daily driving advantages to having a flywheel that's managably heavy (like ours is). Carrying rotation around on the flywheel is beneficial in traffic and on the track. But then again, if you're just going to go in a straight line, then maybe that's something to look into when you do a clutch swap, too.
keep us posted
But it's gonna cost you more than $200 unless you know someone who's selling one for cheap. Then the only way to truly tap it's capabilities is with the support tool- add between $40 (pirate market) to $140 (if a legit source will even sell you one- but there are a few who will). then you need a laptop or profec (which retail at about $550 IIRC)It's pricey but worth it to get maximum control of the ECU.
There's no noticable loss in torque between the G93 and G94.... unless you drive around at 1K RPMs a lot
TBs can probably be had cheaper from a local shop, and the gain isn't as spectacular as you're going to expect. Especially before you've done the other big stuff.
If you're going to drive a lot, I can not recommend tein coilovers enough. Nuff said.
If you autocross, bars are definitely needed: front strut, rear sway, rear strut and possibly trunk- if you're super serious. Stay away from rear tie bars with the coilovers. They tend to make the rear squirrley and it has a tendancy to break loose suddenly during fast cornering. Not good.
Stage 1 cam is worth looking into (and I don't think the adjustable cam gear is necessary. Just move the crank ahead to the full 8 BTDC while you have the cam gear off). It's the tuning that makes them seem like you get less than what you're paying for. I assure you there is lots of power to be had but most guys aren't taking the time to tune everything properly. Although, right now I can't say as how I blame them
Flywheel? Why? There are true-to-life racing and daily driving advantages to having a flywheel that's managably heavy (like ours is). Carrying rotation around on the flywheel is beneficial in traffic and on the track. But then again, if you're just going to go in a straight line, then maybe that's something to look into when you do a clutch swap, too.
keep us posted
Jun 7, 2005, 05:24 PM
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You definitly need more than just an emanage. Your looking to spend about $600+ for a proper setup.... Data logger, Wideband O2, support tool, laptop and decent amount of knowledge with feul maps. This is what I would recommend:
TB
4g93 im
stage 1 cam
SAFC
winter..... Look intop a clutch ...... No flywheel. Its only 8lbs difference. Not worth the $
TB
4g93 im
stage 1 cam
SAFC
winter..... Look intop a clutch ...... No flywheel. Its only 8lbs difference. Not worth the $
Jun 7, 2005, 05:45 PM
#10
Great advice all. Nice to have contributions from eboy and hobie - two very knowledgable individuals. I'll see if I can find a local shop to bore the IM and TB. If I do one, might as well do both. I would get the support tool and I have two laptops, so thats not an issue. I have the front strut bar and have been eyeing the PDX bars for sometime. Too many things I want to get!
Jun 7, 2005, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by engineerboy
The emanage can be used without higer-end mods. and I actually encourage it's use while the car is still manageable But it's gonna cost you more than $200 unless you know someone who's selling one for cheap. Then the only way to truly tap it's capabilities is with the support tool- add between $40 (pirate market) to $140 (if a legit source will even sell you one- but there are a few who will). then you need a laptop or profec (which retail at about $550 IIRC)
It's pricey but worth it to get maximum control of the ECU.
There's no noticable loss in torque between the G93 and G94.... unless you drive around at 1K RPMs a lot
TBs can probably be had cheaper from a local shop, and the gain isn't as spectacular as you're going to expect. Especially before you've done the other big stuff.
If you're going to drive a lot, I can not recommend tein coilovers enough. Nuff said.
If you autocross, bars are definitely needed: front strut, rear sway, rear strut and possibly trunk- if you're super serious. Stay away from rear tie bars with the coilovers. They tend to make the rear squirrley and it has a tendancy to break loose suddenly during fast cornering. Not good.
Stage 1 cam is worth looking into (and I don't think the adjustable cam gear is necessary. Just move the crank ahead to the full 8 BTDC while you have the cam gear off). It's the tuning that makes them seem like you get less than what you're paying for. I assure you there is lots of power to be had but most guys aren't taking the time to tune everything properly. Although, right now I can't say as how I blame them
Flywheel? Why? There are true-to-life racing and daily driving advantages to having a flywheel that's managably heavy (like ours is). Carrying rotation around on the flywheel is beneficial in traffic and on the track. But then again, if you're just going to go in a straight line, then maybe that's something to look into when you do a clutch swap, too.
keep us posted
But it's gonna cost you more than $200 unless you know someone who's selling one for cheap. Then the only way to truly tap it's capabilities is with the support tool- add between $40 (pirate market) to $140 (if a legit source will even sell you one- but there are a few who will). then you need a laptop or profec (which retail at about $550 IIRC)It's pricey but worth it to get maximum control of the ECU.
There's no noticable loss in torque between the G93 and G94.... unless you drive around at 1K RPMs a lot
TBs can probably be had cheaper from a local shop, and the gain isn't as spectacular as you're going to expect. Especially before you've done the other big stuff.
If you're going to drive a lot, I can not recommend tein coilovers enough. Nuff said.
If you autocross, bars are definitely needed: front strut, rear sway, rear strut and possibly trunk- if you're super serious. Stay away from rear tie bars with the coilovers. They tend to make the rear squirrley and it has a tendancy to break loose suddenly during fast cornering. Not good.
Stage 1 cam is worth looking into (and I don't think the adjustable cam gear is necessary. Just move the crank ahead to the full 8 BTDC while you have the cam gear off). It's the tuning that makes them seem like you get less than what you're paying for. I assure you there is lots of power to be had but most guys aren't taking the time to tune everything properly. Although, right now I can't say as how I blame them
Flywheel? Why? There are true-to-life racing and daily driving advantages to having a flywheel that's managably heavy (like ours is). Carrying rotation around on the flywheel is beneficial in traffic and on the track. But then again, if you're just going to go in a straight line, then maybe that's something to look into when you do a clutch swap, too.
keep us posted
i also recommend the lightweight flywheel. i have a fidanza one i paid 355 for. as soon as i started the car, and let it warm up ofcourse, i revved it, and it was definatly a quicker rev than be4. didnt really feel much if any power difference though, but i prolly will be glad i have it after the turbo, lol
idk, only if z_lancer is going to be getting real big power eventually, then it would be worth it. with under 150whp, i just dont think its worth it.ot: important though: i didnt notice any change in drivability w/ the flywheel either, still can use downshifting to slow down same exact way, and still can chirp the tires in 3rd, hahahaha ha ha, ok im done, lol
t
Jun 7, 2005, 10:08 PM
#12
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Flywheels don't add power, they reduce rotating mass.
Yes, E-manage has benefits even stock, but I certainly wouldn't spend the time to tune a barely modified car. If he wants to...by all means.
I'd do E-manage, cam, cam gear and IM if I were you, but that's a lot of money to spend at one time.
Yes, E-manage has benefits even stock, but I certainly wouldn't spend the time to tune a barely modified car. If he wants to...by all means.
I'd do E-manage, cam, cam gear and IM if I were you, but that's a lot of money to spend at one time.
Jun 7, 2005, 10:18 PM
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And it's been proven on the track that the reduced rotating mass can hinder corner exit speed because the lighter flywheel has slowed its rotation more than a heavier one (i.e. stock) would. You can come out of the corner at lower RPMs and that means you have to spend that 0.2 seconds (or however long) catching back up to where your power ought to be. 0.2 doesn't sound like much, but I've lost autocross rankings by 0.001sec so I'll happily take 0.2 sec 
Not trying to start an argument, but it's a good sized investment of time and money for negligible gains IMO.
I just finished fixing my stage 2 cam issues and didn't need an adjustable gear. Just set the crank timing to where you want it. At least it has a gauge and you don't spend a lot of time doing trig.
But before you cam, take care of your intake mods first. Two reasons: first is install costs (and you're more likely to install a TB than a cam) and the more aggressive cams will reduce your lower and midband power. You want to have the support of potential low to mid power (mid being 2500-4K RPM) before you go adding something that may otherwise reduce the power there.....
anyway, I think I'm done
Not trying to start an argument, but it's a good sized investment of time and money for negligible gains IMO.I just finished fixing my stage 2 cam issues and didn't need an adjustable gear. Just set the crank timing to where you want it. At least it has a gauge and you don't spend a lot of time doing trig.
But before you cam, take care of your intake mods first. Two reasons: first is install costs (and you're more likely to install a TB than a cam) and the more aggressive cams will reduce your lower and midband power. You want to have the support of potential low to mid power (mid being 2500-4K RPM) before you go adding something that may otherwise reduce the power there.....
anyway, I think I'm done
Last edited by engineerboy; Jun 7, 2005 at 10:20 PM.
Jun 7, 2005, 10:24 PM
#14
Excellent suggestions/advice. Now, adding a bored IM - won't that drop some of my low, mid end power due to being too open? I know that cams and cam gears are for higher power, but will the intake mods really help with low end? I should also add that I still have my stock downpipe and cat. I'm thinking I need the high flow cat as well. Ideas?
Jun 8, 2005, 12:20 AM
#15
Well, looks like I found a bored g94 intake manifold for a great price. I'm gonna start looking into the cam some more. I know that there are two cams, an NA and an FI - would it be worth it to get the NA cam for now, and then upgrade to the FI one later or should i jsut hold off till I go FI?