no i dont plan on doing high compression just forged internals..

 

i am looking to go fast in the long run but i want to have a motor when i get there and not a seized block and some shrapnel on my garage floor cause i got impatient and tried running 14psi on stock internals but i would really like to learn more first and then build it up....

any other opinions? im open to other suggestions to if i have missed anything in my original post... thanks

 

buy an extra 4g94 motor, tear it apart on ur free time. and build that **** up from scratch.

 

i was leaning towards doing that...mabe becoming a mad scientist or something hahahaha ..i was also reading that Ripp has out a set of pulleys for the g94 now too so maybe i'll do those if i've got an extra motor laying around....if i decide to go that route i think i might pick up some valve springs from RPW and maybe talk to a machine shop in the area about making new lifters ???? just an idea...i'm hoping i get the $$$ soon so i can get this thing under way.

 

You need to take a step back and open your wallet... if you don't have about 10g's to invest then i wouldn't worry about building the motor. To get the boost high enough to surpass the stock internals safely you'll be looking at that kind of investement easily.

Think of it this way...
Go FI--3000/4300 depending on kit and if you get it used or not.
Ported Manifold-- 150-350 used/new/G93
TB-- 200-270 used/new
Header-- 200-370 used/new
Test pipe-- 30-70 used/new or HFC for 80-120 used/new
Catback-- 200-400 used/new
Stage 2 reliable setup-- 800-1200 used/new
Clutch/Pressure Plate-- 350-450 depending on brand
Brakes/Rotors-- 200-300 depending on brand

Total used/bargain shopping: around 5200 so far
Total new: around 7700 so far

This doesn't include any install fees or cost for oil/gaskets/etc. during your installs.

That gets you the speed reliably and all on stock motor pushing what the motor can handle.

To go past that...

AEM-- 2000 or emanage 400-600(depending on harnesses and if you get used/new)
Tuning on AEM/emanage-- 400-600 depending on shop
Forged internals-- pistons/rods 1200
Upgraded valve springs 120(this is needed for higher boost)
Possibly need LSD... stock spider gear differential doesn't like pushing above 300whp for long... 900

Bargain shopper total now... around 8400 (this is with emanage)
New only... around 10,900 (this is with emanage)

Emanage will only get you so far... you'll more than likely want the AEM to push as far as your hear desires and wallet can supply.

With this info now you can decide what do you see for yourself... fastest in the world... or faster than most others... or built up motor investing about 2k of your go fast money into and still undecided if you want above average or out of this world power. All in all it's dependant upon your WALLET and dedication to keep going.

Remember things happen so you may get a hurt motor even running AEM and being tuned by a proffessional... it happens... so don't think you'll get that route and be free and clear. Fuel pumps fail, fmu's fail, regulator's fail, turbo's fail, another words shi@ happens.

Also keep in mind that i've kept out install prices as well as frustrations and pains you experience with going unique or buying used. With this info you should be able to soak in a lot and make the best decision i think.

Good luck,
Boe

 

Boe i really appreciate your input on this subject matter. i think i am going to take the night and sleep on what you said...you know, let it all soak it...i'll make another reply in the morning. thank you

 

As for stating higher compression increases hp and lowers torque... that's false. Higher compression increases torque dramatically... the side effect is hp also getting increased. Remember you can't increase hp without increasing torque along the curve as hp is calculated from the torque. This fact is further backed by the diesel engines... pumping at 18:1-26:1 compression ratios they see tremendious torque outputs but due to their low revs and short stroke the torque curve comes on quick usually peaking by 3-4k rpms. This results in a dramatically lower hp output.

High comp/long stroke/high revs= high hp/tq
High comp/short stroke/high revs= higher hp than torque
High comp/short stroke/low revs= lower hp than torque

But an increase in just compression on any of these will raise torque significantly and effect hp accordingly but less dramatically.

Change stroke to short will drop torque but increase hp...
Change stroke to long will raise torque considerably and effect hp accordingly but less dramatically

Shifting the torque curve and the rev range dramatically can increase/decrease hp/tq depending on which way you shift the range. Lower rev curve increases torque/lower hp... increased rev curve higher hp/lower torque.

About as indepth as i can give it without just opening up a book and teaching a class...

 

The biggest thing is don't get discouraged from the NA path either... read my last novel and you'll see there are things that have yet to be played with but can be investigated. Stroke changes/piston sizing/compression ratios have not been fully pushed. However since you're in a situation of needing the car with minimal downtime... you may not be able to go that route since it will take a lot of downtime while building and testing things.

 

^Amen, this guy knows his stuff!

 

Boe, in regards to your first post about the list of mods i would need, i already have a lot of them so that hole already exists in my pocket the only thing i really need to do is get a new TB and maybe a set of wilwoods to replace my Porterfields and slotted rotors....i very well understand where you are coming from with money and time...pretty much all of the money i make goes into my ride, insurance, or cheeseburgers from white castle....i am looking to do all of this and hopefully be FI in 2 years. i'm doing it more as a hobby to get my lancer faster than most...i would like to be faster than all but seeing the position i am in now...let's just say give it time and a lot more learning.

 

RPW Hypereutectic Pistons CR9.0:1 = $160USD
RPW Hastings Piston Rings = $100USD

RPW says Hypereutectic pistons can handle 16-18psi with no problems at all. After that get rods and you should be all set. With lower compression you should be safe. It takes about 8hours to swap pistons. After that you can collect everything else.

 

Personaly, i enjoy the NA path. there is so many more problems that i don't have to worry about that FI does...plus it's kind of cool being in a NA 4g94 and beating out a couple smaller 6's and such just cause we're quick off the line hahhaha...high compression isn't anything i had thought about since i knew very little about it. it sounds like an interesting route but it is something more i would have read more into.

 

$160USD for pistons ???? that's cheap as hell...did you mean 1,600USD? i'm going to give RRM a call and see how much boost they have been able to clear with their pistons.

 

$160 US + $100 US for the rings.
They are not forged it's a different material better than stock. Give Mitsiman a pm he will be able to explain everything.

 

The RPW site has thier price list with hyperutectic 9.0:1 pistons listed for AU$215 I think they're a stock item for another car, that's why they're so cheap. you may want to see if they have 9.5:1 to keep your compression the same.