I know y'all are busy out there at the shop. And I know people have talked about it before. . . But since RRM IMHO is the premier co. for us lancers . .. . it would be real cool if you updated your upgrade path.... or maybe have one for turbo and one for us NA suckers? Or someone else could do one too, but again I believe you are the experts. . .

Thanks

 

that does sound like a good idea since rrm has come out with some new stuff. But then again its a suggestion and theres no right way to go.
Basically a good suggestion for the engine is this:
Staying N/A
Alternate between intake and exhaust side. Starting with intake. I believe torque comes from the intake side and HP comes from the exhaust side. So having all exhaust and headers will give you topend power (high rpms). Having only intake and intake manifold will give you more low end torque. thats why alternating is good to keep it even.
I would go intake, catback, throttle body, headers/downpipe, intake manifold. Somewhere in there with extra money, throw in a lightweight pulley. Then build the internals (pistons, port and polished cylinder head, cam gears/shaft).
Going Turbo
Same thing but rather than intake, go with the turbo. RRMs turbo only requires a good axelback to start with. Then you can throw in the IM and stuff. If the turbo will come in later, don't bother with headers yet cause they will be replaced with the turbo. I personally am going to keep my axelback muffler, and only do the intake side, then once I get the turbo, have my axelback welded onto a custom turboback with a hgihflow cat. But thats all personal opinion.

Also on the thing about intake side giving low end torque and exhaust side giving topend HP, can someone confirm that cause I could be really wrong but thats how I've been looking at it.

 

Its sorta right that intake side gives low end and exhaust gives top end, but the lines gets blurred really fast depending on the exact set up. I noticed low, mid and high end power with my headers, while my TB and IM showed gains up top while giving a little better throttle response. Oh and don't forget about ECU modifications for NA mods, a good tune is worth its weight in gold in terms of gains.

 

i think someone needs to make a list of what limits can be ran on our cars....like max boost w/ stock internals, or with decompression gasket...etc. what breaks where and what doest.....what cam to get from RPW, etc. for making the best our of our car....somthing like that would be badass....

 

oh yeah, after the I/H/E get RRMs piggyback and the software with the wideband and get it tuned prffesionally or by yourself (if you know how) specifically to the mods you have and the way you want it.

 

I can't see the whole max boost, max nitrous, etc. thing being made since it requires that people have blown their engines, knew why it happened and actually had the car set up correctly. Plus god knows we'd have a swarm of noobs coming on here moaning about how they followed the guidelines and still blew their motors.

 

Yes, I will definitely be getting the piggyback in the next coupla months. And I know enough that I know I can't tune it myself. What are some ballpark figures for taking your car to get dyno/map tuned?

 

You can expect to pay a few hundred for a good tune.

 

sweet perfect time to ask this. i've got a short ram on right now and i'm about to do a 2.25 magnaflow catback, pulley, and rrm headers. i'm not gonna loose torque if i keep the stock cat on right?

alright, its been covered a thousand times so flame me if you must, but have those with pulleys found that they can maintain or even boost torque while still flowing more?

and also when do i need to worry about running lean? I was thinking about the bored fuel rail, but i don't want to do that until it is necessary. I guess this could be considered, "How far can someone go NA before they need to worry about fuel?"

 

You might lose a little, but its not like your gonna become a honda. So far no one has gone far enough NA to worry about fuel, at least no one has blown there engine NA because of fuel related problems.

 

cool thanks for the input. so how would one blow a motor NA assuming everything is installed correctly? I'm guessing incorrect tunes or driving like a jackass for a while would do the trick

 

Well you could run too high a compression rate, too aggressive cam set up, not enough fuel, and I'm sure there are a host of other potential causes of a blown engine.

 

Yeah that would be sweet. Maybe they should start an "I've reached the limit or don't make the same mistake as me" thread or something. It may be difficult due to different set ups, driving styles, mileages, and unknown errors as ambystom said earlier. but nevertheless it would probably be a good idea anyway so we can at least get an idea

 

gotcha, and just for the record- do you think that bolt-ons like intake, header, exhaust, pulley or even im or tb could cause these problems? even when all together?

 

No, bolt ons have nothing to do with the compression rates, the cam profiles, or really any of the problems mentioned before.