i'm about to leave for the rim of the world rally. i'll be back tonite or tomorrow. but post away everybody!

 

Holy mackerel!

47 psi on the FPR. You're making your FP working very hard all the time. In the long term, you will probably wear your stock FP prematurely as with the injectors. What's the color of your injectors, white or construction site orange?

I think you should change your plotline a bit. 1, 2, 3, 4, 4.5, 5 5.5, and 6k . . . more useable A/F mixture. On my mirage 6.5K was max and when the few times that I have hit beyond it. My car bogged down from the cam rotation (can't go any faster). No use tuning beyong redline.

Header will automatically ask the FP for more fuel at upper rpm.

FPR - you're scaring me at those high #'s. Then again, I'm not an expert on FPR.

Intake is in the same boat as the header.

Exhaust does nothing on fuel, just expelling fumes.

The MAF hack - are you still running it? I'm not too sure on it. You're in the territory w/ the TC eclipse guys on the hack alongside DIM.

I'll ask DIM to chime here.

Your AFC setting seems too high on the low setting. What's your MPG? If you don't have a mod-ible FPR, those #'s will look at okay.

 

hmmm, i dunno the color of my injectors. i'll take a look in the morning.

well if i set my last adj. point to 6k when my limiter is 6.5k, wouldn't the ecu use the stock setting from the ecu (which would be grossly lean) if i went past 6k or would it use the same value from the safc at 6k? well i don't go past redline so it's just a question.

my mpg is still pretty high. i haven't checked it in a long time but i think it was 29 or higher. they were all cruising miles. i'll check again next week.

 

Allright you need to realize something here:

The ECU has STFT and LTFT (short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim). The ECU will look at your fuel settings at idle and cruise and if it is too rich it will scale back the STFT. If the STFT is scaled back consistently then the LTFT is scaled back. Once the LTFT is scaled back this will adjust the open loop fuel maps (wide open throttle) and also lean those out at the same time.

Do you mean 47psi at WOT (wide open throttle) or at idle? 47psi at idle is too high and your pump won't be able to push against it at full pressure (on a RPW it will be around 63-64psi or so...) and this will cause less fuel at WOT. If you have it set to 47psi at WOT then the pressure is too low and you need to raise it up until the idle pressure is around 34-36psi which should have the WOT pressure up to around 51-53psi.

Usually the MAF hack will create a non-linear lowering of the airflow readings. Idle airflow readings drop more than WOT airflow readings...

 

okay, i'll lower it back down to 34-46. i raised it a little because i thought idle pressure was 38psi. since i thought i needed more fuel, i added on to 38psi to 47. since i brought it up to 47 psi, my idle voltage has risen from .65v to .83v, but my wot voltage went from .82 to .84v. i'd really like to raise both of them.

 

The variable confusing me is the FPR. I haven't use it, so I can't really comment properly to increase your volts on the O2 reading.

I know that your MAF hack bring more air at idle, so you have compensated on the AFC for more fuel correction.

What your rpm at crusing speed w/ O2 reading? I'll take a crack at it.


"i'd really like to raise both of them."
Ar idle, crusing spd, or WOT?

 

Also, it might be one of those things that you need a DSM friend sitting in your car. You concentrate on driving while he helps your baseline AFC tuning. Afterwards, you tweak the setting to your liking on condition.

Your baseline seems off somehow. Gut instinct. Sometimes dropping the A/F correction might help your problem.

 

at 65 mph i have an o2 reading of .1x-.72v. at WOT i have .84-.85v all through the rpm band. and at idle its .1x-.82v.




all of them really. i keep reading that at idle i should have .1x-.92v, at cruising the same, and WOT at .95v. i've actually been running my car with the current settings for almost a year, but i don't push my car that much. i've only raced once and it was just me and a friend cuz he just got his eclipse.

tomorrow, i might just stick my old restrictor plate back in, set the safc back to 0 across the board, and see if it might just be a problem with my a/f gauge or wiring. i built it myself and had tested it on numerous batteries comparing it with a regular voltmeter so it's just as accurate.

 

"at 65 mph i have an o2 reading of .1x-.72v. at WOT i have .84-.85v all through the rpm band. and at idle its .1x-.82v."

I need your rpm at 40, 45, & 50 at crusing O2 reading. This will give me a basic idea for correction plots. Work on low setting first since it's easier and safer.

Also, email DIM. I tend to bounce ideas off him and make adjustments afterwards.

Setting back to zero might do the trick to get another baseline. You still need another person to help you ease your burden . . . it's very hard to concentrate on driving safely and tunng at the same time. It's like looking down on your c-phone briefly to hit a button.

Once you get a better baseline, you can properly make adjustment off memory like hitting a button on the AC w/o even looking at it.

 

will do.

 

I talked to Rob at the RIM about AFC's and the 2g turbo fuel pump. He recommended the fuel pump, and said that our ECU won't recognize + numbers from the AFC. Is that true?

 

well they seem to work for me. with the maf hack i had one crappy *** idle and voltage stayed at .02v. now i neither have stumbling or bogging, but then again my car isn't tuned right either.

 

Well, I'm not going to comment on a pro shop owner.

The FP just works in the background. It's not like a CPU upgrade on your home computer for recognition purpose. It's more like upgrading your power supply to your computer. You can add more stuff to the draw more power than before.

AFC should work, because it intercepts signals before hitting the ecu.

 

well drove around today with the stock restrictor back on and fpr at 38psi. idle was .2x-.81v. cruising at all speeds, 30mph, 40mph, 65mph were all fluctuating between .1x-.72. wot on 3rd was .84v all throughout. and oh yeah, safc all set back to 0. this sucks ***. must be how i wired it. i'll try and resolder it tomorrow morning.

 

Hmm . . . it seems strange that it doesn't want to go above .84v . . . It's hard to offer advice on tuning.

Look like you probably need to tune it one rpm at a time. Also, there is no power beyond redline. You start hitting the failsafe program from the ECU and risk fuel cut-off (you can't do anything abou it).

Try this setting . . . basing off your idle. If correct, your car doesn't stumble at idle. Tuning at low setting . . . try stretching out your gear and a certain throttle . . . don't go beyond your low throttle pt. Example: you have set it at 38%. Don't go beyond 38% throttle to 6K . . . sure, it may not sound great.

Since I do have first person account in person to tune. This is my disclaimer.

1K = +3
2K = +4
3K = +6
4K = +7
5K = +9
5.5K = +10
6K = +12
6.5K = +14

This is a very guess. Tuning 1K is very easy. Start with that and increase accordingly.