Most important
Most important
Other then getting your oil changed and tires rotated whats the most important thing to replace or check on at 100k miles on an 03 lancer or any car in general?thanks
Two words: TIMING BELT.
You should have done it at 60k. But not everyone does. So if you haven't, get it done NOW. And if you did it at 60k, then start planning on the next change.
Also, when was the last time you got a transmission fluid flushed with fresh fluid? If you've never done it, you'll probably be amazed at how much better your car drives.
Brake fluid too.
I could go on. But it mostly depends on what you've already done.
You should have done it at 60k. But not everyone does. So if you haven't, get it done NOW. And if you did it at 60k, then start planning on the next change.
Also, when was the last time you got a transmission fluid flushed with fresh fluid? If you've never done it, you'll probably be amazed at how much better your car drives.
Brake fluid too.
I could go on. But it mostly depends on what you've already done.
Sorry I couldn't resist...
I would look into the manufacturers recommended maintenance. Do you have a manual for your car?
Tranny and timing belt is a good start. Check you P/S fluid for burned smell. When was the last time your coolant was changed/flushed. Check you seals (engine transmission hubs brakes) for leaks and dry rot. Check your suspension (bushings springs) for problems. Check you steering linkage and ball joints for loose or cracked parts. Check all of your hoses (coolant brake P/S) for cracks, swelling, and dry rot.
Basically give your car a once-over (on a rack if you can) looking for anything out of the ordinary. Most rubber components will wear out at this point and can fail without you knowing it (the changes can be subtle)
Hope this helps.
I would look into the manufacturers recommended maintenance. Do you have a manual for your car?
Tranny and timing belt is a good start. Check you P/S fluid for burned smell. When was the last time your coolant was changed/flushed. Check you seals (engine transmission hubs brakes) for leaks and dry rot. Check your suspension (bushings springs) for problems. Check you steering linkage and ball joints for loose or cracked parts. Check all of your hoses (coolant brake P/S) for cracks, swelling, and dry rot.
Basically give your car a once-over (on a rack if you can) looking for anything out of the ordinary. Most rubber components will wear out at this point and can fail without you knowing it (the changes can be subtle)
Hope this helps.
Thanks everyone for the tips I have alot to look at then. I bought this car used with 74k miles on it I now have about 95k miles on it but mostly highway miles I don't drive it aggressive most the time its an automatic. You can do your own transmission flush and change your own T-belt right?
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^Yes...did them both in my garage! The tranny flush I did at every oil change, cuz the auto tranny will only drop 4qts at a time. So lose 4qts of the old, in with 4qts of the new. Did that 2x and spend less than half what a "Speedy" oil change place quoted me.
The other way is to go to a dealership or garage and have ALL the tranny fluid flushed out with a machine. That way, you get 100% new fluid. If you just drain it and replace it, you're only doing a % of the total fluid (which is why he said he did it a lot).
^True, but after you do it in 3 cycles...you'll have a good amount of new fluid in there. And seeing a power can possibly damage internal tranny workings and seeing it's upwards of $120, I like my way!
I've never heard of flushing machines hurting trannies. But then again, as I said, I also haven't driven AT in nearly 5 years...
There are ball-bearings in the tranny and filters and can be dislodged or moved (it's possible) around with "power" flushing. Depending on the skill of the technican (LOL @ Jiffy Lube or the alike) and at what setting their machine is set it "could" do damage in there...
My method : safe and reliable. Not the best obviously, but at least I know what happened and what to expect. After my very first 4qt cycle the car immediately improved in gas mileage and the shifts were definitely smoother.
My method : safe and reliable. Not the best obviously, but at least I know what happened and what to expect. After my very first 4qt cycle the car immediately improved in gas mileage and the shifts were definitely smoother.
There are ball-bearings in the tranny and filters and can be dislodged or moved (it's possible) around with "power" flushing. Depending on the skill of the technican (LOL @ Jiffy Lube or the alike) and at what setting their machine is set it "could" do damage in there...
My method : safe and reliable. Not the best obviously, but at least I know what happened and what to expect. After my very first 4qt cycle the car immediately improved in gas mileage and the shifts were definitely smoother.
My method : safe and reliable. Not the best obviously, but at least I know what happened and what to expect. After my very first 4qt cycle the car immediately improved in gas mileage and the shifts were definitely smoother.


