It might have been easier to obtain the RRM ECU before they discontinued them. Hell, I wanted one...why did you guys stop producing them?

 

They replaced it with a piggy-back unit. It does everything that the ECU did (except rev limiter) but costs about $150 less It's available for the manual NA now and they're working on the other versions, which should come quickly since Rob already knows what specs he wants.

 

Since FI's been covered, with NA the best you'll likely get is 160WHP if you want to be able to drive it anywhere that you can actually chase those Civics (i.e. keep it a daily driver). It's not any cheaper.
RPW's going to be your source on this one. But it's at least as expensive and more difficult to tune the NA to even get here. First you have to purchase and install the Quad/individual TBs. Yep, 1 60mm TB for each port on the intake side. Then you get to figur out what filter method you want to use.
Ok, to see if it even works you get to tune the Haltek e6k that came in this not-so-cheap setup. Good luck. Ask HobieKopek about how much fun it is to tune a true standalone.
I've never been able to get a straight answer on the price for this setup, but I know that the Haltek runs $1500 new, so I'm thinking it's at the $4k mark (they include a LOT of internals upgrades as I recall).

If you get that working then you get to tune your exhaust. Header, DP, hi flow cat/test pipe, appropriately sized catback.

If you have 1800 you wont miss here's what I'd do:
1) go to eBay- order a front and rear upper strut tower brace set. They'll run you about $50. You'll have to do a little grinding on the holes of the rear brace from what I hear.
I have the RRM front and I just fabricated a upper rear brace and the handling of this car is now phenomenal.
2) Call progress at 800.905.6687 or go to progressauto.com. Order their sport springs and rear anti roll bar (about $160 each). Install them
OR 2b) Get in touch with Road race and order the adjustable Tein kit they now sell.
OR 2c) If you know somebody who can get them for wholesale prices, order a Tein Super Street Damper kit. Wholesale's about $1000.
3) shop around and get an eManage with support tool (about $350 for the box, another $135 for the support tool). I don't know if the guy in Malasia is still producing them. If he is, his kit is $40. You can only get the support tool from the retailer you bought the eManage from, they can't sell support tools to people who maybe bought it on eBay. You'll need a laptop for the support tool. here's a good pace for your eManage needs
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/

4) some sort of AF ratio tool to help you tune the eManage. a good wideband http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ will run you about $350. Some say they can tune from an exhaust gas temp sensor. This guys stuff ir REALLY high quality and his prices aren't bad (weren't when I bought from him). He also has some stuff on eBay.
http://atlanticperformanceengineering.com/

Alright. If you got with the Progress springs you're loking at $1205 plus some shipping. That'll leave you about $500 to get a laptop to run your eManage software- that should be plenty for a used one. It doesn't need to be the new hotness or anything, probably a Pentium II or faster. My IBM thinkpad 600X is only a PIII and the software runs fine.
So now you have PLENTY of suspension and tuneable stuff to keep you busy until you save up more cashish for turbo or whatever.

OH I almost forgot- tires!! Get yourself a set of good performance tires (Toyo T1S's or the like). The best money you'll spend, guaranteed. I wouldn't use the stock tires for a kid's tire swing because the traction's SO bad I'd be afraid the kid would slip off.

Good luck dude!

 

Sorry a bit OT but, I can crank the crap out of my settings to +50% all day.. still get the same cut that i would have if i were to put it at 0%... either way just about same cut in just about same spots

 

I'm just giving some universal advice, I just used the SAFC as an example because thats what I have used. You can change the SAFC with a E-manage, I never installed any piggyback (yes the SAFC is a piggyback) on my lancer when I had it, but it works really well on other cars. And if you NOT running big boost why would you need a stand alone? Sure you have full control of ignition, fuel, idle maps, but for a N/A 4G94 the gains would not be worth the price tag.

 

So you are saying that no matter what the setting your getting no change in performance? If so maybe you should check your install.

 

I believe it's because the Lancer won't read positive numbers, so setting it at 0 will give the same result as any other positive number. I've heard this from many people, so it's not the install.

 

def. not install i can monitor everything and monitor it will with that safc that is all its good for it just looks neat in our cars..POS

 

OK I'm going out on a limb here, I'm speaking as a guy who has used SAFC's on factory turbocharged vehicles, something programed to see "positive" numbers. I can see where a SAFC would not be the best choice on a factory N/A vehicle, with a turbo on it. But, if used on a N/A vehicle the SAFC will never cause the ECU to see positive numbers. It's based on percentages of actual air that the MAS is seeing. I've seen your posts before urbanknight and you seem pretty knowledgable so I wont go into details because I'm sure you you get the drift. After reading the quote from Boe that JVlancer put up, are you refering to positive numbers as added percent (which really doesnt make sense) or a figure above 0?

 

Doesnt mean its hooked up right, are you sure you know how to use it? I read in you sig you have a automter boost and A/F ratio gauges. A/F gauge is a good way to monitor if the car gets dangerously lean, but for exact tuning, you at least need an EGT. For example I've HEARD of a A/F ratio gauge on a 1G DSM registering the same green lights at .90v and .95v for the o2 sensor. Same green lights, very different readings. Again, I stated I believe a SAFC might not be the way to go on a turbo lancer but calling it a POS for all lancers just goes to show your ignorance and inability to keep your mouth shut.

 

eldanoloco, feel free to correct me. My element is suspension, so I could be way off on my understanding of these things called engines Actually, even in suspension forums, people should be free to debate me as long as they do it in a respectful manner. But thanks for being tactful about it.

 

Sorry for changing the subject a little...but if you add a non intercooled turbo charger from RRM...will you need to replace the stock exhaust and intake?

 

If you buy the kit the new intake comes with it. So does a turbo exhaust manifold (header) but you dont HAVE to change your exhaust. Strongly recommend it, might have boost creep issues, talk to a few guys that have the different kits.

 

LOL wow to think my innitial question was "how many doors to lancers have?" JK this discussion roks

 

get a turbo at http://www.importperformanceparts.net/ for 1700 click on mitsu then turbo kits