Do get a little better idea of what you gain etc from tuning with a piggyback or the like.. check this out:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=53795

it's some lab work that I did. Basically all we did was vary AFR and timing. You can see the kind of alterations and so forth in power that we managed. There are some minor oversights in the lab report.. but the general info as presented in the report are fine.

The data in the report was also done at 25% throttle. That's fine and works great for showing the trends while being easy on the engine. Going to 100% throttle would only change that total mass of fuel and air going into the engine.. not the ratios shown and so forth. Therefore more power would be extracted and the trends would be amplified. But it's just a heads up. So the 4 or 5 hp you see gained in the charts and data would probably be around 10-15 at full throttle, maybe even more.

Later.

Steve

 

how a/b torque converter from levelten...........

 

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0212...uki/index.html this is the web site where the above statment came from and like the article says it helped the low end witch you are looking for so sdhotwn is wrong saying they dont help

 

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0308...lon/index.html oh geez look at this a eclipse get 16 ftlbs at the wheels from a ground wire kit

 

Well I'll make sure I throw on a type R carbon fiber sticker too while I'm at it.

First of all, from run to run any any given dyno you'll see variation of 2-3 hp. It is not uncommon. Differences in engine temperature and tire slippage will generate different horsepower numbers when dynoing. So anything under 5 hp of change is often considered to be experimental error when using a chassis dyno.

Second of all, some cars are not grounded properly and do have spark leakage and voltage variances that can result in things as severe as misses on cylinders which will obviously be an awfully bad thing for your power. Additionally, if the current paths are not completely open and connected properly you can lose voltage throughout the engine bay. I've heard arguments both way.. and don't prescribe to either... but if your battery is depleted there is a minimally higher load that the alternator can induce upon the engine over being at full charge. Therefore, if there is a voltage drop in the system it is possible that the alternator would generate a greater load. I don't know if I believe that overall theory, but it is true that current draws have effect on shaft torque of electric motors/generators. And thus if enough current was being drawn to charge the battery or overcome system losses you will lose power due to the extra drag of the alternator.

So in other words... if a car is built poorly and has no ground cabling at all in the engine bay a ground system could add some consistency to the electrical system that could make the engine run smoother.. but the cable itself is NOT giving horsepower.

EDIT: Our Lancer's also have a fairly large ground loop network in them already. Some cars do not have as extensive of a system...

Only a retard would actually think that a piece of wire creates more horsepower in an engine... (when in theory what is happening is the cabling helps the engine overcome build deficiencies to run properly and thus plausibly show a hp increase that was already there in the first place.. just lost most of the time due to poor conditions). You can overcharge a car battery past the peak 14 volts and get a horsepower "gain" as well.

And as far as the plugs... if you don't have the proper spark energy or your plugs are fowling at all, or they are not an ideal "temperature" plug (aka hot or cold plugs) then yes you can get some gains. But a good fresh set of properly gapped stock plugs is not going to be vastly outstripped by suddenly throwing in some Iridium plugs on a stock engine. Higher spark energy can be more important though in cases where forced induction is present, or higher AFR's are being used.

 

sdhotwn i have a 1977 cougar with 7.5:1 comp ratio and the recomeded fuel is 87 so you are saying our motors with 9.5:1 should rum the same gas well i think your wrong on yet another topic

 

well on my dyno a 5hp gain is a 5hp gain not any kind of error

 

1977 vs 2003 for one..

Second of all check your manual.. it says what octane is meant to be run in our lancers...

This is what octane means:

"
The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. When gas ignites by compression rather than because of the spark from the spark plug, it causes knocking in the engine. Knocking can damage an engine, so it is not something you want to have happening. Lower-octane gas (like "regular" 87-octane gasoline) can handle the least amount of compression before igniting.

The compression ratio of your engine determines the octane rating of the gas you must use in the car. One way to increase the horsepower of an engine of a given displacement is to increase its compression ratio. So a "high-performance engine" has a higher compression ratio and requires higher-octane fuel. The advantage of a high compression ratio is that it gives your engine a higher horsepower rating for a given engine weight -- that is what makes the engine "high performance." The disadvantage is that the gasoline for your engine costs more.
" - howstuffworks.com

Other places will have the exact same description as well.


So unless you are getting knocking you don't need a higher octane. Also, fuel injection and proper computer controlled metering is why your 1977 lower compression may recommend 87 but that our 9.5:1 cars run the same octane. It also has a lot to do with how aggressive or advanced the timing is.

Before you sit here and try and call me out for being wrong get your crap straight and know what you are talking about. I've gotten caught before having had misconceptions and I work pretty hard to make sure that I research things thoroughly before I post them. I can still make mistakes in what I post... I'm human... but I also make sure that I follow up and try to make sure everything is clear and accurate.

As far as your 5 hp is 5 hp is 5hp concept, take your car and put it on the dyno 8 times in a row 1 hour apart with equal warm up times etc. Then post all 8 of the graphs. I highly doubt you'll come up with the same number and same graph on all 8 occasions. Probably a couple of times.. but not on all 8. And the variance will probably be anywhere from 2-5 hp. Cars and dynos are just not that consistent.

 

There's a lot of misinformation in this thread. Just a few points though some have sorta been covered:

1. Changing your clutch/torque converter will not increase the amount of torque your car puts to the wheels unless the part was slipping. Chances are this isn't happening with the mods you've mentioned, especially since you're driving an AT.

2. You won't notice a significant gain (if any) from changing plugs alone. Trust me. I've done it. I've used several different kinds of plugs (stock, Denso Iridiums, NGK's, middle of the road priced NGK Iridiums, and now I'm going on to my 5th set).

3. It's unlikely you'll notice any difference from grounding wires except on a dyno (and like Steve said there is a certain margin of error that makes interpreting small gains very difficult).

4. Sticky tires will not increase torque.

5. Turbos do not increase gas mileage. They make it significantly worse. treo, if you ever plan on turbocharging your car do some serious reading on EFI.

6. Pressurized air is a good thing. That's the whole point of forced induction (pressurizing air). An intake sucking air from a low pressure area could potentially be a bad thing. This is the reason for cold air boxes and cold air intakes.

The throttle body may help. It's really hard for me to say personally (I installed it at the same time as my CAI and I've never had a stock TB to swap in order to experiment). Both this and the intake manifold are fairly expensive mods though so be sure you're doing the right thing before you do them.

Steve and engineerboy have been right on point as usual. I think if I were to delete all the speculative and incorrect information this thread would have something like 6 posts, so read carefully and follow up on some of these claims before throwing down any cash. Good luck.

 

My only idea is dont take out anything or put it back to stock and just leave your induction parts. I'd say get a CAI, new wires and sparks, hyper grounds do help abit, throttle body and intake manifold, and wight reduction.... That will help alot... Coz you still need your top end power.. Always remember, our cars have more torque(stock) and low hp.. So good take offs can make you win good... Take the advantage.. Different story when you have turbo...yehheeyy

 

After all the discussion in this thread you still put on "wires, sparks, and hyper grounds" We already discussed all through that those items will give negligible gains if any. My point being the money it costs to get those things can in themselves nearly pay for the throttle body, or the CAI.

Also in all technicality weight reduction doesn't do anything to improve your torque. It does help in the torque or hp to weight ratio.