Just wanted to get some opinions and pro/cons on forced induction or N/A (Natrually Aspirated).

 

forced induction = way more power way more expence shortened engine life.
Opinion: If you got money to do it don't mind a voided warrentee then go for it. If you need to get 200k+ miles out of the engine or if money is tight stick with N/A

 

I just noticed that there is a thread like this but it was done back in June of 2002. People might have changed there views from then to now.

 

Basically my views on this is 4cylinders like turbo's over Supercharging. They produce more power per lb of boost and often a lot more torque since the SC is driven by the motor and robbing torque. If you a 6 cylinder it's kindof a tossup in the power area... i tend to lean more for the SC on 6cylinders due to their easier setup. Turbo'ing a V-6 is actually a lot of work compared to the SC. On and 8 cylinder supercharging is the only way to go in my eyes.

As stated longevity is a goal for most and NA can keep that goal a lot easier and cheaper than forced induction but you'll never get the power you want NA usually. Forced induction can be made safe and long lasting there are just some drawbacks... like you'll have to be satisfied with safe power(ie:20-30whp less than tune on the edge if not more), you have to water/oil cool the turbo and usually better cooling(radiator) wise is recommended. If choose SC then you have to think about the extra draw on the motor caused by running another belt driven apparatious. All in all an SC or TC car should be good for 100k miles if taken care of and tuned safely... Fat and rich with plenty of timing pulled to accomodate the daily changes that can occure.

NA applications don't really deal with all the problems that Forced induction runs into but you sacrifice power to stay so safe... even then your not completely immuned to problems as running an NA vehicle on the edge can kill you just like a forced induction setup will.

It usually comes down to your goals and how deep your pockets are... also take into consideration your future needs. Some want power now and the ability to expand later... NA really doesn't off much of this and the gains are negligeable. Forced induction SC or TC does and the gains can be beyond your imagination/wallet!

From a practical sense and max power with the 4cyl i say TC the sucker... just be sure to tune it safe and efficiently and don't exceed the motors capabilities.

 

Moving to USLG since this is an opinion poll and really not specific to forced induction at all.

edit: What Boe said x2.

 

TURBO all the way man

 

In my case, I vote NA. Yes, turbo is the best bang for the buck, but my engine has 50k on it and I don't want to shorten it. I would rather have my car for years to come. By the way, does anybody know if Mitsubishi engines are cheap? How much do low-mileage 4g94s run? What about 4g64's? I've seen sites which sell Japanese engines and of course the much sought after B18C (Integra GSR) engine which Civic boys love is $3700 (complete change-over). A B16 can run from 1600-2300, depending on the application. Everywhere I look Honda engines are much more expensive than Nissans and Toyotas. What about Mitsus though?

I mean, if the engines are cheap then turbo might be ok. Slap a turbo on, race your engine...after a while, just swap out the motor for the same motor and put the turbo back on.

 

400-700 for the 4G94 is average.

 

That's pretty cheap, Boe. I guess turbo would be a better app then. I mean, put on a turbo kit and maybe 4-5 years down the road you might have to replace the engine, but it wouldn't be that much.

I'd like to put a stage 1 RRM non-ic turbo on our ES automatic, but it's our main car (Civic is always having problems, Maverick doesn run) so therefore reliability is the #1 factor for me. However, Rock's polling of people with RRM turbos indicates that its a very reliable turbo, and provides excellent power compared to putting the same amount of money into NA apps.

Is there any special care or additional stuff you need for the turbo? Like, once you get the RRM kit installed, how much additional maitenence and TLC do you need to give it? Is it a lot of upkeep?

 

I didn't think so... for the first few month i chased down leaks from loosening bolts but once everything go set in it was fine. I did check the oil and coolant often but there were never any issues.

I had a few gaskets go out on me over time but a few hours work and about 2bucks for the gaskets and it was done. It never downed the car though i just felt the loss in power and the slower spool times.

 

If your going to get the non-ic auto kit just get that and be happy. Don't worry about the header or test pipe or exhaust... at the stock boost you should have no issues at all. It runs fat and rich with all the safety and reliability in the world. The motor's parts actually hold up to a lot more that we've proven so it shouldn't affect engine life at all.

It's those of us that keep wanting faster and faster that have more troubles with gaskets, plugs, and fuel economy. Keep it stock and be happy... if you keep from falling into the TIM ALLAN syndrome you'll be happy and fine for a long time.

 

listen to boe...he knows his lancer...and he knows turbo

 

<---ignorant n00b

So I can just get the turbo kit without anything else? I wouldn't need an exhaust as well? I'd like to get the exhaust/headers along with it in the future though...it's all just a matter of persuading the wife. She wants to fix up the car, but I don't think she wants to in the degree I do. Right now, she's focused on fixing her dented bumper and getting a spoiler and rims. Maybe a body kit. I've asked her about a turbo and she said it's cool but you know how women are...they say one thing, and then when you do it, "WHAT????? ARE YOU CRAZY??!??!!??!"

But, I was the one to get her into Lancers in the first place so if I could do that, anything's possible

I have a 95 Civic but I'm very unsure of whether to fix it up. I just got a new engine installed but its a DX (102 hp) motor. I was short of money and needed transportation. I would feel stupid about swapping out that motor since I paid $1000 for the motor and installation and it only has like 45k or so miles on it. Turbo it? I could probably get 180 hp out of it or so. But that car lacks so much torque, it's a crime. Head swap? Maybe. 500-1000 bucks would give me an extra 25-30 hp. Plus it's automatic, and while our Lancer is auto as well, Honda's autos are notoriously bad. On the ClubCivic.com forum there is a huge stigma against autos, while autos on here are more readily accepted.

Just for comparison purposes, I dragged my Civic to her Lancer and I never even had a chance. From a standstill she CREAMED me. She took off fast in that infamous Lancer First Gear while I snailed my way up in that infamous Civic First Gear. By the time I got up to the top of third gear where my intake and exhaust actually kick in, she was too far ahead (all stock, no mods, too!) for me to even catch up. My car weighs like 2300 lbs and hers 2700 lbs. The 18 extra hp (and nearly 40 lb/tq!!!) made all the difference still.

My Civic is a salvage (it got stolen) so I can't get any money for it in a trade-in or sale. Plus in a month or two it will be paid off. And I just got a "new" engine for it. So, it's not going anywhere. Nor am I able to buy a new car with my existing credit and lack of a desire for a second car payment. So I'm stuck with modding my Civic or the Lancer. The Maverick is out of the question since it's so beat up and old it would take too much $$$ to restore it....although i think a 5.0L 300+hp RWD old-school car would be nice

 

Cory your ??'s are fine... don't noob yourself so easily.

The only reason i say to stay with the stock header is that you will find that you can save money going that way and still get great power. You seem like you want reliable power for the least amount of cost. Thus get the non-ic kit and be done. It comes with everything you need to boost on a completely stock car. If you upgrade exhaust it's cool but you're an auto so the gains are not so significant on the non-intercooled setup. If anything see if you can find a stock header from the people on here and gut out the cat. Use that to save you some cash and give you the header feel/sound. It won't be as good but it will only set you back 50 bucks vice $369! The most bang for your buck is the non-ic kit and it will give you all the reliability you'll need/want bar none.

This will keep you happy... the woman happy... and your wallet happy all at the same time.