This for a GTS with the ROckford System.

Ok. SO I think I have read somewhere that we do and its below the driver seat? First is this true or not. I see something there but...is it? Also does anyone know how much wattage it brings? I ask because I do not know alot about upgrading audio systems but I thought that if maybe the amp was switched to a bigger one the system would sound even more powerfull....I went to a local shop and they educated me a bit. They wanted me to buy a 1600 watt one which would be 400x4 is this too much for our stock speakers? They also recomended a 5 channel one so I could power our stock sub in the trunk... PLease anyone is it worth changing? they also recommended a equalizer..........

 

i am not very educated with audio as well. I thought the head unit (deck/cd player would power the speakers in our car) and the amp would just be for the sub with gain control from the deack, IE) bass control.

I have no idea how its wired up, that would be for a professional stereo guy to figure out.

My opinion, don't cheap out. Get some quality guys to wire it in if you don't know how to do it yourself.

UNLESS, there is someone can help you on this aspect.

 

The amp is under the driver seat and the system is 650 watts (max.) as is. That's about all I can tell you about audio.

 

Honestly, 1600 watts is most likely over kill. If you're looking for more thump, you'd be better off adding another 10" sub, or changing the current 10" for a 12". Or maybe changing to 2 amps: 1 4-channel 200watt (RMS) amp for the mids and highs and a dedicated 400watt (RMS) amp for the sub.

There are 2 different ways of rating the power of a system. RMS power and "Peak Power". I'm not sure how they're rating our stock RF system, but given my past experience with systems I'd have to venture a guess that they're stating peak power (I've had 250watt RMS systems get way louder in previous cars and trucks).

Personally, I may start looking into 'stiffening' capacitors for the audio system, or I may investigate the wire gauge they used to power the amp. It just doesn't sound like a 650watt system to me. I mean, sure it gets loud "enough", but it doesn't sound like 650watts loud to me.

Oh yeah, I'll also be applying sound deadening material to the trunk lid. I noticed this weekend that it rattles a little (can be heard outside the car). I don't like rattles inside or out.

 

I have the upgraded RF sound system with navi. The amp in my car is under the front driver's seat. It is an 8-channel amp (2 x front drivers, 2 x front tweeters, 2 x rear drivers, 2 x subwoofer). The front drivers are labeled as 50 watts @ 2 ohms and the rear drivers are labeled as 25 watts @ 4 ohms. According to a rockford support tech, the subwoofer is a dual-voice coil @ 2 ohms a piece but I never did get a power rating from him. I would assume all of these are peak outputs.

Thus, we have 650 - (150 + ~100) = 400 watts leftover for both subwoofer channels. I am completely guessing as to the power of the tweeters (~100) but they are on separate amp channels from the front drivers. BTW, 400 watts peak would be approximately 80 - 100 watts RMS a voice coil.

I doubt upgrading the power cable would do anything to the system. Adding a capacitor should do nothing for sound. It would keep your lights from dimming but I'm pretty sure Mitsu specced this amp with the stock alternator in mind.

 

So have any of u guys blown your sub yet? I put the punch to 6 and the bass usually to +2, but turn the punch down to 1 when its freezing out.. Not a big fan of the trunk rattle but its only on the outside, so it doesnt bother me too much. Bringing it in to the dealership today cause the stereo isnt working... Am I the only one thats happened to so far?

 

yea thats the enclosure rattloing and then the trunk emergency release from the inside
but anyways that sub is terrible
try to get a new one

 

This system is definitely not made for LF dB runs.

 

I got the subwoofer replaced just last week under warranty. Right now, I got the punch set to 1, and the bass to about +3.

 

The last time I shopped RF amplifiers they rated their amps in RMS power. And according to your description it sounds like an 8 channel amp 8X 25watts @ 4ohms. The amp sounds like it's capable of running each channel at 2 ohms. So, the channels running 2 ohm loads would deliver ~50watts each. So, if the front mids are 2ohms each then we have 100watts + 50watts for the tweets + 50watts for the rear coax's + 100watts for the sub (2ohm DVC sub) = ~300watts RMS. Which going by the 'rule of thumb' I normally work with that's about 600 to 650 watts peak. And if the sub is only getting 100watts RMS, then that would explain why doesn't sound like a 650 watt system to me (I've never built a system with less than 200watts going to the sub(s) ).

I want to investigate the power cabling in my system because sometimes the system sounds like it's starving for power during power hungry segments of music, but then gets loud in the 'not so power hungry' parts. Well, not really "loud" but louder than it was. Power cabling does have an effect, if the gauge is too low (i.e. higher number) then the amp will not receive the power it needs when it needs it. Given this is a stock system, albeit better than the vast majority out there, it would not surprise me to find under sized power cables feeding the amp. If the power cables are 10 gauge, or even 8 gauge, then they are too small. For a 300watt RMS system I would use at a minimum 4guage power cables from the battery to the amp, and 10 to 8 gauge speaker wires.

Stiffening caps do more than prevent your lights from dimming. Although, that is the most noticeable change you'll see if you're alternator is under powered. Caps store and release energy, similar to batteries, only a cap can do it much more quickly, and a cap can't store energy for nearly as long. So, a cap might benefit me by evening out the nuances that I've been noticing about this system.

Then again, I predominantly use 2 channel amps in the systems I build. So, there is the possibility that the 8 channel amp is having issues with power distribution internally.

In the end, if I become dissatisfied enough, I'll probably replace the amp and speakers with components I've liked using in the past.

 

I've noticed this same thing. It happens fairly regularly after the first 2-3 seconds of music for me. Music starts out loud and then is brought down in volume. I always assumed this had to do with the dynamic speed volume/eq. Turning it off seems to make no difference whatsoever and makes me wonder if there's not a bug in the MMCS about it (like not really being able to turn off the beep when making selections).

Let me know if you do anything power-wise for the stock stuff. I'd definitely be interested in hearing how that turns out, especially since i have a cap collecting dust from my old car