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'03 REAR bumper removal/install ?'s

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Old Apr 8, 2008, 10:13 AM
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'03 REAR bumper removal/install ?'s

So i've checked all around, and only found stuff on the front bumper. Found stuff in the Evo forums about custom fabs for aftermarket bumpers, etc...but it sounds as if the evo setup is different with rivets and whatnot.

What I'm doing is replacing the stock bumper with another stock after a freezing cold night and a slight bump shattered my entire driver-side rear bumper cover.

Just a few questions, as it seems kind of simple...does removing it involve getting to anything under the trunk upholstery? I'm assuming I have to get underneath the brakelight assemblies...

Is there anything else I need to be aware of before I take on this project?

Thanks!
Old Apr 8, 2008, 11:41 AM
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Yes, below the taillights and inside the trunk you'll need to roll up the carper and probably remove the inner liner a little bit. You'll need extensions to reach some odd angled bolts/nuts too...
Old Apr 8, 2008, 12:49 PM
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Cool, so nothing I need to go out and buy a rivet gun for that's what I like to hear.
Old Apr 8, 2008, 02:23 PM
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Nah, I don't remember using anything that "crazy" for the uninstall.
Old Apr 11, 2008, 04:37 PM
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Um, yeah, that was NOT fun. Step-by-step to follow.
Old Apr 11, 2008, 05:30 PM
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Okay, tools you will need to remove your old bumper, and install your new one:

Rivet Gun
Philips Head Screwdrivers (medium AND large heads)
1/8" Rivets (or larger)
Rivet Washers (not necessary if your gun does the larger rivets...preferably with a 5/16" to 3/8" diameter)

Flathead Screwdriver (Large enough for prying, thin enough to fit under retension snaps without breaking them)
Jack, two jackstands (two jacks if you got 'em)
Socket Wrench
10mm Socket
Socket extension (at least 4 inch)
10mm Wrench
4-6 clamps

You can do this by yourself, but you'll bust your back and knees. At least with another person you can wrestle the old bumper off better, and cut your time in half with the rivets.

After jacking and supporting your car by the rear wheels (see your owner's manual for jack/jackstand placement), go ahead and remove the wheel well bolts with your socket, I had to use the wrench on the top two. If you take the wheels off you can use the socket for all of them, but it's not necessary and just more work.

Once you get these off on both sides, the fun starts. You need to remove both brake light assemblies, which are just two screws each...there are some retension clips holding them in...just use steady pressure with your hands and you can pop them out by pulling the light assembly. BE GENTLE, these assemblies are NOT cheap. Once you get these off, unhook the wiring harness and put them somewhere they won't get knocked on the floor. You've got one other 10mm bolt and a plastic philips head retension clip to remove. Keep these separate from the other bolts, as they're different thread patterns.







Next, pop off the plastic panel directly under your trunk latch hold-down. To do this, pop off the pressure clips holding this on, and pull the whole panel upwards towards you to release the other four retension clips you can't see.


now you can remove your inner upholstery on the right and left sides by removing two threaded clips directly to the sides of you if you're looking into the trunk. There are other clips to be removed, too. To do this, just push your small philips head screwdriver into the center of them until the centers pop out. Pull back boths sides of the upholstery to get to the SINGLE 10mm bolt on each side (yeah, this got a lot of swearing out of me).



Next, the panel you removed by the trunk has four nuts holding in that part of the bumper. They are located inside a metal support piece, don't worry if you drop them, the support piece is setup so that you can get anything you drop.

NOW you can pull the bumper off, but don't get too carried away. You still have two supports behind the bumper that are held to the bumper by plastic retension plugs, just get your flathead in the cutaway area on the top of these and pop out the center, and they release.


Don't forget to disconnect your license plate wiring harness. Now you can fully remove the bumper.

Next step = RIVETS. You have 18 of these buggers, 9 on both sides. You need to drill out the existing rivet heads/washers with a drill, doesn't take much, just enough to pop the tops off, then you can pull them through the underside with a pair of pliers. This is holding your metal bracket onto the bumper, you need this for all your mounting points with the new bumper.




You can take off the license plate lights with your philips, and use the 10mm socket on the license plate brackets.

The best way to re-rivet your bracket onto the new bumper is to unassemble it into it's three pieces, clamp the left side up and align your holes. Now you need to use a washer on top, and a washer on bottom when riveting...unless you get a larger set of rivets. I didn't expect to need them, and at 12am there isn't much else to do when your rivet gun only takes one size. SO, for those of you planning ahead, you're all set. Once you get all the bracket riveted, reattach the center piece, and reverse these directions to put your bumper back on.



Last edited by jwick76; May 10, 2012 at 05:39 AM. Reason: missing photos
Old Apr 11, 2008, 05:31 PM
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THese are what I used for rivets, just FYI...all I had around at the time...


Last edited by jwick76; May 10, 2012 at 05:37 AM. Reason: missing photo
Old May 6, 2012, 08:46 PM
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Man, I wish those photos were still there...
Old May 6, 2012, 09:49 PM
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use the FSM
Old May 6, 2012, 11:09 PM
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I'll put them back up when I get off work. For some reason all the links were lost...I didn't even know this how-to was still around! Be prepared for most of your bolts to snap off due to rust, and you might run into the same problem with the brackets for your license plate lights. Wiring might be shot, too. So plan an extra few hours for unexpected fun.
Old May 10, 2012, 05:40 AM
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Got all the photos fixed. hope this helps!
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