Tools:
12mm socket/wrench
14mm socket/wrench

1. Lift the rear end of the car.

2. Remove the endlink from each end of the swaybar (14mm).



3. Remove the four bolts holding the swaybar brackets to the crossmember (12mm).



4. Pull the swaybar out either end.

5. Your new swaybar should come with it's own bushings. Grease them up (inside and out), and put them on the bar.

6. Slide the bar into place. MAKE SURE you have it above the control arms (I didn't; I had to remove and reinstall the bar to get it right).

7. Put the 4 bolts in that bracket the swaybar to the car. Tighten them to 23 ft-lbs.



8. Put the endlinks on the new bar. Tighten the nuts to 29 ft-lbs.



9. Put rear wheels back on.

10. Lower car.

 

Great instructions! Did you use the "not so firm" setting (if I'm correct) and is there any special reason for that or just a matter of preference.

 

No, I used the "extra firm" setting. Just a matter of preference.

 

Does it make a big difference? and how different are the settings? I have an ES and it takes turns great out on my back roads but it looses a little traction in the rear at times and i'm thinking that this rear sway bar will help prevent that.

 

A bigger rear swaybar will make the car oversteer more.

 

What is the diamater of the stock bar on the GTS?

 

it is 20 mm

 

Yes, it does make a very noticeable difference.

I don't know about the settings - I've only tried the one so far.

Um, this swaybar would make the rear lose traction MORE often. You get more oversteer from an RSB. Do you know why you're losing traction? It's abnormal to get oversteer on a stock FWD car unless you're really good at FWD "drifting"...

 

do you need an alignment after you do this? I need to get an alignment after the springs but my bar wont be here for another couple weeks.

 

No alignment needed. You're not removing anything that has a major impact on the alignment of the car.

One thing to note - this install is best done with the rear wheels on something. If you can squeeze under the car while it's on the ground, great. If not, put something like ramps under the wheels and put the car on them. You want the weight of the car to be on the bar so a) install is much easier and b) the swaybar is installed as it will be under normal driving.

Also, I have no clue how to torque the endlink nuts without an impact. When I use a wrench, they just spin...

 

been a while since anyone posted here but...

How tight were the stock bolts when you guys took that RSB off? I just got my works RSB (from cosworth actually lol) and the stock bolts are on as if the hulk put my car together... the car actually lifts a bit when i try to take the bolts off and the end links kinda bend... afraid im gonna break something on my car.... or my body when the bolt suddenly comes undone and all the force im putting into it comes down onto a bar or my face or something.... lol

 

Try putting something like Liquid Wrench (or if you want to do it really cheap, Hydrogen Peroxide) on the end link bolts and letting them sit for a while.

You bring up a good point, too: RRM - make end links that aren't so crappy and weak.

 

I tried installing it yesterday. It was near impossible to get the end links off. Since both the stud and the nut were rusted, they were spinning together as i tried to unscrew it. How did you guys get yours off? I couldn't find a way to hold the stud in place, while trying to unscrew the nut. Please help!

 

impact wrench. came right off for me. You could also use some wd-40 or liquid wrench to help it break loose. Are you using ramps or jack stands??

 

Does the 09 Lancer GTS have sway bar? I mean stock sway bar?