'03 OZ Cam Seal
'03 OZ Cam Seal
Hey there,
I'm running a 2003 OZ Rally and it has a leaking cam seal.
I was wondering if anyone could point me to the best way to get to it, and replace it. From what I have found I need to go in through the valve cover? I plan on doing the timing belt and any gaskets and seals that are in my way. Anyone have some insight?
Thanks in advance!
Edit:
So I confirmed some things as per the FSM. I'll need to take the timing belt and cam gear off, but do I need to get inside? I.E. through the valve cover?
I'm running a 2003 OZ Rally and it has a leaking cam seal.
I was wondering if anyone could point me to the best way to get to it, and replace it. From what I have found I need to go in through the valve cover? I plan on doing the timing belt and any gaskets and seals that are in my way. Anyone have some insight?
Thanks in advance!
Edit:
So I confirmed some things as per the FSM. I'll need to take the timing belt and cam gear off, but do I need to get inside? I.E. through the valve cover?
Last edited by KingTowel; Mar 24, 2015 at 02:10 PM.
you need to take the timing belt off, remove the cam gear, and the camshaft if I remember correctly...installing the seal shouldn't require any special tools other than generic seal installation dies...
Yeah I figured that much as per the FSM and talking to a dealer. Is it possible to do it without removing the cam shaft? I.E. pulling the seal with some pliers or something?
I'm almost due for a timing belt anyway, but if I can do it without going in through the valve cover I'd be a happy camper. If not, I think I'm going to paint the valve cover anyway.
I'm almost due for a timing belt anyway, but if I can do it without going in through the valve cover I'd be a happy camper. If not, I think I'm going to paint the valve cover anyway.
the oil seal surrounds the camshaft, so it's impossible to remove it without at least removing the sprocket...the problem with removing the seal without first removing the camshaft is you risk scoring the shaft...if you score the housing in the head, you can patch it with RTV around the outside of the seal, but you can't patch a rotating assembly...my advice is to do it right...might take more time, but ultimately it could save you a lot of headaches...you guys don't have MIVEC, so the valve train is rather simple...opening the valve cover is easy, your greatest concern should making sure timing is correctly set and tensioned when you put the belt back on...easiest thing to do is take your spark plugs out and hand crank the motor until ALL timing marks are aligned...then remove the belt...
the oil seal surrounds the camshaft, so it's impossible to remove it without at least removing the sprocket...the problem with removing the seal without first removing the camshaft is you risk scoring the shaft...if you score the housing in the head, you can patch it with RTV around the outside of the seal, but you can't patch a rotating assembly...my advice is to do it right...might take more time, but ultimately it could save you a lot of headaches...you guys don't have MIVEC, so the valve train is rather simple...opening the valve cover is easy, your greatest concern should making sure timing is correctly set and tensioned when you put the belt back on...easiest thing to do is take your spark plugs out and hand crank the motor until ALL timing marks are aligned...then remove the belt...
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I recently did my rear main seal the same way, picked the old one out without removing anything...no leaks so far 
hope she holds oil for you...oil and timing belts don't mix
hope she holds oil for you...oil and timing belts don't mix
^ exactly. It seems to be all right after a day, I dunno though something seems a bit off.. It might just be my suspicious nature. There seems to be a little too much clicking when the engine is warm and idling. I think I'll get a buddy to look at it, maybe post a video for you guys.
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