DIY 30K mile service
Apr 12, 2009, 04:40 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
DIY 30K mile service
Earlier today I did a (nearly) complete 30K service on my '08 Lancer ES. It was pretty darned easy. I now have a DIY mechanic testosterone boost that should last me through the week. The Mrs. better watch out tonight 
Here are some tips and other thoughts . . .
Tools used:
*metric socket set with spark plug socket (I think 10 mm and 17 mm, plus the spark plug socket, were the only ones used)
*jack stands
*Pro-lift floor jack
*Phillips-head screwdriver
*spark plug gapping tool
*oil drain pan and funnel
*lug wrench
Other supplies used:
*5 qts 5W-20 Mobil 1 (Wal-Mart $28)
*oil filter, Fram (Wal-Mart $4.00)
*cabin air filter (www.filtermaster.com $20) ***Use filter for Infinity G35. Same filter, but lots cheaper than buying from Mitsu.
*engine air filter (Mitsu dealer $40) ***Need to find a cheaper supplier. Oddly not available at any of my local auto parts stores.
*spark plugs, Denso IK20 Iridium (I think I paid $3 per plug at Advance Auto.)
*Anti-seize lube
*Rags, paper towels, and
The main things I accomplished are as follows:
1. Rotated tires
2. Changed engine oil and filter
3. Replaced engine and cabin air filters
4. Replaced spark plugs
5. Inspected hoses, belts, brakes, etc.
Procedure:
After driving home from church (engine warm so old oil flows) I pulled into the garage, loosened the lug nuts (for tire rotation), and put the car up on jack stands.
To put the car on jack stands I put a floor jack under the car, about even with the leading edge of the front door handle. I place the business end of the jack under the "subframe???" and lift the car. This gets both wheels on that side of the car off the ground, and I can then put jack stands under front and rear lift points. Repeat for the other side.
You might notice a block of wood (and a sock) on the jack. I don't like metal-to-metal contact.
Here's the car off the ground:
Next pull the oil drain plug and filter. This is so easy on this car, thanks to the convenient location of the oil filter. You don't really need the car off the ground for this, but since I'm rotating the tires anyway . . . I allowed the oil to drain while I did the rest of the work.
Changing the engine air filter is pretty obvious. Consult the owner's manual if necessary. Changing the cabin air filter is very easy, once you know where it is. It accessed by removing the glove box. There is another how-to thread specifically on that topic.
Replacing the spark plugs was super easy, but they are a bit tricky to find. They are found by removing the black panel on top of the cylinder head. Just remove the three Phillips head screws. Here are mine with the plastic panel removed:
I had also removed the plastic cover that resides over the intake manifold and has the Mitsu logo.
Once the panel is removed you will see the four ignition coils, one for each spark plug. There is no old-fashioned distributor/cap in this car. One at a time, remove the 10 mm bolt that holds a coil in place:
Then remove the wiring harness. Press down on the tab where my finger is pointing. This will allow the harness to be pulled from the coil.
Once the bolt and harness are removed just pull the coil up out of the cylinder head. Then stick a spark plug socket down and remove the old plug.
I could not find any info. for the spark plug gap. The old plugs had a gap of ~0.86 mm, so I gapped the new plugs to that distance. I also like to smear some anti-seize onto the threads of each new plug before installation. So, with a new plug gapped and anti-seized, put it in your socket, and install it in the head. Do not overtighten!!! I didn't bother to use my torque wrench, but I have a pretty good feel for installing a plug snugly without breaking it. It is fairly easy to break a spark plug by overtightening. Then put the coil back on, attach the wiring harness, and reinstall the 10 mm bolt. Repeat for the other three spark plugs.
After doing the spark plugs, I rotated the tires. The owner's manual shows the direction of rotation. Each time I pulled a wheel off, I inspected the brake pads and suspension components for that wheel. On the front wheels, inspect the drive axle boots, ball joints, and tie rod ends, making sure there is no grease leaking. You may wish to use a work light to get a good view.
After the tires were rotated I got under the front end, replaced the drain plug, installed the new oil filter, and generally looked over everything I could see. Look for oil leaks, bad hoses, etc. Don't forget to replace the drain plug and oil filter!!!
I did this once when I was 22. It's not good to be pouring new oil into the motor then notice an oil slick encroaching on your feet 
At this time I put the car back on the ground and tightened up all the lug nuts. Then I put in the new oil. Up to proper point on dipstick, then run motor, then wait a few minutes for oil to settle. Re-check the dipstick and top off to the proper level. During that last waiting period I took another look at belts and hoses in the engine compartment, topped off the washer fluid, then put away my tools and cleaned up.
I think that does it! After finishing I took a short drive to the grocery store. It could be the placebo effect, but the motor sure sounded and felt silky smooth
By the way, I stapled all of my receipts into my Mitsu service manual on the page with the 30K service. In case I ever need a warranty repair, it will be good to have a record of my service. My service manual now has two pages covered with receipts from Wal-Mart and Advance Auto.
Final notes:
There was one thing I could not figure out: How do you check the manual transaxle fluid level???? Anyone? Bueller???
Any man with a Y chromosome should have a socket set (with spark plug socket) and a Phillips head screwdriver. This means you should be able to change oil and spark plugs. If you don't have these tools, then check to make sure you have a *****
I'm willing to cut a guy slack for not having a good floor jack and jack stands. Even without these tools, you can still do everything for the 30K service. It's just that rotating tires will be a PITA. You have to take one wheel off and replace it with the spare. Then change tires one at a time. Much easier with all four wheels off the ground at once. If you don't have a floor jack and jack stands, pretend it's your birthday next week, and get yourself some.
So, my total cost in $$$ was just about an even $100. Anyone know what a
dealer charges for 30K service?
It also took about 2 hours of my time, and I wasn't rushing. You might also consider that it took me some time to buy the materials, but my wife and I have four vehicles between us, so I just stock up on oil, filters, etc. a couple of times a year. Once in a while when I'm in Wal-Mart I stock up on the 5-qt jugs of Mobil 1.
The most important thing for me, however, is that I know the job was done correctly. I know what kind of oil was put in the car, I know the plugs were replaced, and I know I wasn't just ripped off. I've had a couple of occasions in my 25 years of car ownership where I know a mechanic did not do what he said. For example, I once paid a mechanic to flush brake fluid in my 944, and I found out the hard way (lost brakes at turn 3 at Summit Point Raceway) that he didn't do the job.
Cheers everyone!
Mark
Here are some tips and other thoughts . . .
Tools used:
*metric socket set with spark plug socket (I think 10 mm and 17 mm, plus the spark plug socket, were the only ones used)
*jack stands
*Pro-lift floor jack
*Phillips-head screwdriver
*spark plug gapping tool
*oil drain pan and funnel
*lug wrench
Other supplies used:
*5 qts 5W-20 Mobil 1 (Wal-Mart $28)
*oil filter, Fram (Wal-Mart $4.00)
*cabin air filter (www.filtermaster.com $20) ***Use filter for Infinity G35. Same filter, but lots cheaper than buying from Mitsu.
*engine air filter (Mitsu dealer $40) ***Need to find a cheaper supplier. Oddly not available at any of my local auto parts stores.
*spark plugs, Denso IK20 Iridium (I think I paid $3 per plug at Advance Auto.)
*Anti-seize lube
*Rags, paper towels, and
The main things I accomplished are as follows:
1. Rotated tires
2. Changed engine oil and filter
3. Replaced engine and cabin air filters
4. Replaced spark plugs
5. Inspected hoses, belts, brakes, etc.
Procedure:
After driving home from church (engine warm so old oil flows) I pulled into the garage, loosened the lug nuts (for tire rotation), and put the car up on jack stands.
To put the car on jack stands I put a floor jack under the car, about even with the leading edge of the front door handle. I place the business end of the jack under the "subframe???" and lift the car. This gets both wheels on that side of the car off the ground, and I can then put jack stands under front and rear lift points. Repeat for the other side.
You might notice a block of wood (and a sock) on the jack. I don't like metal-to-metal contact.
Here's the car off the ground:
Next pull the oil drain plug and filter. This is so easy on this car, thanks to the convenient location of the oil filter. You don't really need the car off the ground for this, but since I'm rotating the tires anyway . . . I allowed the oil to drain while I did the rest of the work.
Changing the engine air filter is pretty obvious. Consult the owner's manual if necessary. Changing the cabin air filter is very easy, once you know where it is. It accessed by removing the glove box. There is another how-to thread specifically on that topic.
Replacing the spark plugs was super easy, but they are a bit tricky to find. They are found by removing the black panel on top of the cylinder head. Just remove the three Phillips head screws. Here are mine with the plastic panel removed:
I had also removed the plastic cover that resides over the intake manifold and has the Mitsu logo.
Once the panel is removed you will see the four ignition coils, one for each spark plug. There is no old-fashioned distributor/cap in this car. One at a time, remove the 10 mm bolt that holds a coil in place:
Then remove the wiring harness. Press down on the tab where my finger is pointing. This will allow the harness to be pulled from the coil.
Once the bolt and harness are removed just pull the coil up out of the cylinder head. Then stick a spark plug socket down and remove the old plug.
I could not find any info. for the spark plug gap. The old plugs had a gap of ~0.86 mm, so I gapped the new plugs to that distance. I also like to smear some anti-seize onto the threads of each new plug before installation. So, with a new plug gapped and anti-seized, put it in your socket, and install it in the head. Do not overtighten!!! I didn't bother to use my torque wrench, but I have a pretty good feel for installing a plug snugly without breaking it. It is fairly easy to break a spark plug by overtightening. Then put the coil back on, attach the wiring harness, and reinstall the 10 mm bolt. Repeat for the other three spark plugs.
After doing the spark plugs, I rotated the tires. The owner's manual shows the direction of rotation. Each time I pulled a wheel off, I inspected the brake pads and suspension components for that wheel. On the front wheels, inspect the drive axle boots, ball joints, and tie rod ends, making sure there is no grease leaking. You may wish to use a work light to get a good view.
After the tires were rotated I got under the front end, replaced the drain plug, installed the new oil filter, and generally looked over everything I could see. Look for oil leaks, bad hoses, etc. Don't forget to replace the drain plug and oil filter!!!
I did this once when I was 22. It's not good to be pouring new oil into the motor then notice an oil slick encroaching on your feet At this time I put the car back on the ground and tightened up all the lug nuts. Then I put in the new oil. Up to proper point on dipstick, then run motor, then wait a few minutes for oil to settle. Re-check the dipstick and top off to the proper level. During that last waiting period I took another look at belts and hoses in the engine compartment, topped off the washer fluid, then put away my tools and cleaned up.
I think that does it! After finishing I took a short drive to the grocery store. It could be the placebo effect, but the motor sure sounded and felt silky smooth
By the way, I stapled all of my receipts into my Mitsu service manual on the page with the 30K service. In case I ever need a warranty repair, it will be good to have a record of my service. My service manual now has two pages covered with receipts from Wal-Mart and Advance Auto.
Final notes:
There was one thing I could not figure out: How do you check the manual transaxle fluid level???? Anyone? Bueller???
Any man with a Y chromosome should have a socket set (with spark plug socket) and a Phillips head screwdriver. This means you should be able to change oil and spark plugs. If you don't have these tools, then check to make sure you have a *****
I'm willing to cut a guy slack for not having a good floor jack and jack stands. Even without these tools, you can still do everything for the 30K service. It's just that rotating tires will be a PITA. You have to take one wheel off and replace it with the spare. Then change tires one at a time. Much easier with all four wheels off the ground at once. If you don't have a floor jack and jack stands, pretend it's your birthday next week, and get yourself some.
So, my total cost in $$$ was just about an even $100. Anyone know what a
dealer charges for 30K service?It also took about 2 hours of my time, and I wasn't rushing. You might also consider that it took me some time to buy the materials, but my wife and I have four vehicles between us, so I just stock up on oil, filters, etc. a couple of times a year. Once in a while when I'm in Wal-Mart I stock up on the 5-qt jugs of Mobil 1.
The most important thing for me, however, is that I know the job was done correctly. I know what kind of oil was put in the car, I know the plugs were replaced, and I know I wasn't just ripped off. I've had a couple of occasions in my 25 years of car ownership where I know a mechanic did not do what he said. For example, I once paid a mechanic to flush brake fluid in my 944, and I found out the hard way (lost brakes at turn 3 at Summit Point Raceway) that he didn't do the job.
Cheers everyone!
Mark
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eman_226 (Oct 14, 2016)
Apr 12, 2009, 04:58 PM
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manny trans fluid..u have to remove the plug at the top and stick ur pinky in there to about the first knuckle...if u cant feel ne oil..fill 'er up.
**heres the link http://9glancers.com/index.php/topic,2957.0.html
**heres the link http://9glancers.com/index.php/topic,2957.0.html
Last edited by I Am God; Apr 12, 2009 at 05:01 PM.
Jan 7, 2010, 10:36 PM
#3
Evolved Member
For the manual trans oil check, its halfway up the trans on the front. I think a 22 or 24 mm socket/wrench should fit.
If the oil is not level with the hole then it needs oil. If you have to stick one digit of your finger in, it still needs oil regardless if you can feel it or not.
Chances are if you have no leaks then it should be OK, this is what I have found in my last 5 checks every service.
If the oil is not level with the hole then it needs oil. If you have to stick one digit of your finger in, it still needs oil regardless if you can feel it or not.
Chances are if you have no leaks then it should be OK, this is what I have found in my last 5 checks every service.
Feb 12, 2010, 05:03 PM
#4
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
manny trans fluid..u have to remove the plug at the top and stick ur pinky in there to about the first knuckle...if u cant feel ne oil..fill 'er up.
**heres the link http://9glancers.com/index.php/topic,2957.0.html
**heres the link http://9glancers.com/index.php/topic,2957.0.html
Any chance of posting it again?
Mark
Mar 16, 2010, 03:29 AM
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An update to spark plug gap...
According to the Tech Manual, the recommended gap for spark plugs is 0.7 - 0.8mm
Max limit is 1.2mm
I hope that helps others looking the specs...
According to the Tech Manual, the recommended gap for spark plugs is 0.7 - 0.8mm
Max limit is 1.2mm
I hope that helps others looking the specs...
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May 6, 2010, 06:30 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
Manual Transmission Update
I did the 45,000 mile service a few days ago, and I figured I would close a hole in my 30K service write-up. That would be the manual transmission fluid check.
"God" had posted a link with a PDF diagram of the manual and automatic transmissions. Unfortunately, it appears that PDF file is gone.
Here's a photo of the manual transmission showing the fill (and drain?) plugs. The picture was taken from under the car, right under the middle of the front bumper, looking back down the midline of the car. Looking at the picture, the motor is to the left (passenger side of car) and the tranny is to the right (driver side of the car).
The large bolt near the top of the picture, just right of center, is the fill plug. It is 24 mm, and mine has a note about transmission fluid stamped on it. I'm pretty sure the smaller bolt (in the picture, below and to the right of the fill plug) is the drain plug. However, I did not have any reason to drain the transmission fluid, so I didn't take that plug out. It would be great if someone could confirm the location of the drain plug and/or find that PDF file.
I did remove the fill plug. I stuck my pinky finger inside, and the oil was right there. What came out on my finger looked pretty clean.
So, there's the whole story on the 30K service; at least for a manual transmission car.
"God" had posted a link with a PDF diagram of the manual and automatic transmissions. Unfortunately, it appears that PDF file is gone.
Here's a photo of the manual transmission showing the fill (and drain?) plugs. The picture was taken from under the car, right under the middle of the front bumper, looking back down the midline of the car. Looking at the picture, the motor is to the left (passenger side of car) and the tranny is to the right (driver side of the car).
The large bolt near the top of the picture, just right of center, is the fill plug. It is 24 mm, and mine has a note about transmission fluid stamped on it. I'm pretty sure the smaller bolt (in the picture, below and to the right of the fill plug) is the drain plug. However, I did not have any reason to drain the transmission fluid, so I didn't take that plug out. It would be great if someone could confirm the location of the drain plug and/or find that PDF file.
I did remove the fill plug. I stuck my pinky finger inside, and the oil was right there. What came out on my finger looked pretty clean.
So, there's the whole story on the 30K service; at least for a manual transmission car.
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eman_226 (Oct 14, 2016)
Jun 3, 2010, 05:07 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Excellent. Good call on saving that file; thanks for reposting. It looks like my picture in post #9 does not show the tranny drain plug. Refer to the PDF for its location.
Jul 23, 2010, 10:46 AM
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Jul 24, 2010, 09:34 AM
#14
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
To me, the term "trans fluid" refers to what is put in an automatic transmission. This is different from the "oil" that goes into the gearbox for a manual transmission. Just be sure you're getting the right stuff for your car.
That being said, I used the term "transmission fluid" in one of my posts, and my car is a manual.
That being said, I used the term "transmission fluid" in one of my posts, and my car is a manual.
Feb 21, 2014, 08:15 PM
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Thank you very much for this excellent guide. I used it today to complete my 30k mile service, and everything went smoothly.
That is, until I went to check my manual transmission oil. I got my 24mm socket and began removing the fill plug to check the level. However, as I took the plug out, manual transmission oil began pouring out. I quickly put the plug back in to stop it. The quality of the oil was quite clean, so I'm not concerned about that. But is the level of the oil a problem? Is it too full? Should I drain some? Is it possible that because I had driven the car about 2.5 hrs earlier it could have still been warm, and therefore it had expanded to a larger volume? Please help!
That is, until I went to check my manual transmission oil. I got my 24mm socket and began removing the fill plug to check the level. However, as I took the plug out, manual transmission oil began pouring out. I quickly put the plug back in to stop it. The quality of the oil was quite clean, so I'm not concerned about that. But is the level of the oil a problem? Is it too full? Should I drain some? Is it possible that because I had driven the car about 2.5 hrs earlier it could have still been warm, and therefore it had expanded to a larger volume? Please help!