Newfoundlancer's Build-up Thread
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From: Jackson, CA (NorCal, Sacramento)
the rear mount isnt as hard as everyone makes it seem. its infinitely easier if you remove the exhaust. then i think the easiest way is to go behind it from under the car. it will take a while, but its possible. use an open ended wrench with a bigger one on the other end as a breaker. lots of pb blaster helps too. and i have an extra rear mount if you would want it? pm me and we can work something out.
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From: St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
Ok, so the batteries finally charged up in the camera, so I figured it was time to fill the mount. I had picked up the Flexane 80 earlier, but after reviewing the DIY on the mounts again, I realized that I should get the primer in order to do it right. I call the Devcon distributor and inquired as to whether or not they had it in-stock. Indeed they did... for $20... ugh! So, I went there and picked that up, it's a small bottle no bigger than a small coffee cup but is apparently good for 10 sq. feet of surface. As if I had that much surface to cover!
Here are the products: (The Flexane 80 kit comes with the tin of resin, hardener, a plastic cup, and a wooden stir stick)

Anyways, I began by getting a bowl and filling it with some (clean) cat litter
Where the pin of the mount protrudes on both sides, you want some way for it to stay centered while having the mount level for filling. Consequently, using the litter allows the bottom protrusion to sink into it while the rest of the mount stays level. As well, it acts as an absorber to any urethane which may leak through the tape.

I then used the primer (it has a brush incorporated into the cap) which you allow to dry until no longer sticky:


Once that was dry, it was time to mix up the urethane. I opened the can of resin:

Mixed in the hardener:

I mixed in the hardener for about 2 minutes being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the can. You can actually feel a tough layer on the sides of the can while mixing which gives you a hint to be thorough and scrape everything into the center. Following the mixing, I transferred the contents into the plastic cup which was provided:

I mixed the contents again for another 2 or so minutes and then finally filled the mount with the urethane mix. I actually removed one of the pieces of electrical tape before pouring in order to ensure a large enough opening by using a sharp knife.


And Voila! The mount is filled, now I need to wait a few hours before I can take it out and remove the tape. The urethane instructions say it will reach approximately 90% strength over a period of 7 days, so it may be a few before I reinstall it in the car. If I remove the tape tonight I'll post an update, otherwise it'll be tomorrow.
Here are the products: (The Flexane 80 kit comes with the tin of resin, hardener, a plastic cup, and a wooden stir stick)
Anyways, I began by getting a bowl and filling it with some (clean) cat litter
Where the pin of the mount protrudes on both sides, you want some way for it to stay centered while having the mount level for filling. Consequently, using the litter allows the bottom protrusion to sink into it while the rest of the mount stays level. As well, it acts as an absorber to any urethane which may leak through the tape.I then used the primer (it has a brush incorporated into the cap) which you allow to dry until no longer sticky:
Once that was dry, it was time to mix up the urethane. I opened the can of resin:
Mixed in the hardener:
I mixed in the hardener for about 2 minutes being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the can. You can actually feel a tough layer on the sides of the can while mixing which gives you a hint to be thorough and scrape everything into the center. Following the mixing, I transferred the contents into the plastic cup which was provided:
I mixed the contents again for another 2 or so minutes and then finally filled the mount with the urethane mix. I actually removed one of the pieces of electrical tape before pouring in order to ensure a large enough opening by using a sharp knife.
And Voila! The mount is filled, now I need to wait a few hours before I can take it out and remove the tape. The urethane instructions say it will reach approximately 90% strength over a period of 7 days, so it may be a few before I reinstall it in the car. If I remove the tape tonight I'll post an update, otherwise it'll be tomorrow.
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Alrighty, the mount is complete. It turned out very well, but there were a couple things which messed up a little. As you can see in the 4th and 5th pictures, the middle pin got a little uncentered... it protrudes on one side more than the other and is a bit uncentered on what was the taped side. As for fitment, I think it'll still go on fine, and overall I'm quite pleased with it. It looks to be bonded to the metal great and it's as solid as a rock. It might be a few days before I install it, so hopefully everything will be fine when I do.




Newfoundlancer, go to http://www.deyemeracing.com They have a rear motor mount for the Lancer for $69. You can choose between firm and flex. I have their mounts and they are great. It would be cheaper than buying another mount from Mitsu and filling it yourself.
Last edited by Kurt; Jan 19, 2007 at 07:52 AM.
you could always get an engine damper. much much easier install. i just did it, and it seems to work pretty well, i can't imagine there is much difference between that and the rear mount being filled
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Yeah, if/when I do the rear mount, I'll be going with the Deyeme. That way I can have the mount in hand if I go to a mechanic to get it installed. As for now, I'll wait and see how much difference the front mount alone makes.
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From: St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
Haha... the tracker is wayyyyy to much fun! Having a 4x4 that you don't care about beating up is hilariously enjoyable. My g/f is getting her license within a couple months, so I'm gonna let her drive it during the spring/summer/fall seasons, then reclaim it for winter when the lancer is stored again. So, in short.. no, you can't have the tracker
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From: St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
Include a Haltech E6X with Plug n Play harness, RRM 16G Manifold, 12:1 RR FPR, 440 Injectors, Fuel Pump, External Wastegate, BOV, Intercooler, Piping, RRM Oil line kit, Forged Pistons, Pauter Rods, and some guages... then I'll think about it... but only if it's an Evo 3 16G turbo!



but ohwell. it pops when i move from park to drive or reverse to drive. ive got the part to fix it jsut havent got to it.