Has anyone thought about putting in some spacers nothing major but maybe like a 8-10mm spacer behind the fronts and about a 10-12mm behind the rears, I think that would definatly set it off just to bring the stock GTS wheels closer to the fenders edge. Share your thoughts. If anyone has done it post pics i will probably do this really soon to see how it looks.

Kyle

 

This will increase the load on your wheel bearings, often leading to premature failure.

Personally, I don't like the idea. But that's just my personal preference.

 

I love the look , and i have been looking into getting some ......

 

I think it would look sick. Give the back sort of a M3 BMW look. but if cosmetics ever cause performance failure its not worth in imo. but def. look into it.

 

if you do make sure to get the mud guards cause the side of your car will get covered every five seconds. thats how my car seems just from putting 225 size tires on it, stock wheels with snows or my summer rims. if i get the 09 RA im getting the mud guards rite away, especially with the extra power and AWD. but yeah wheel spacers are a bad idea on a new car. it really wont look that much different for the damage it might do.

 

The problem with spacers is that they affect the scrub radius. In a FWD car, it is important that the center of the tire lines up point where the line through the strut intersects the ground. There's more to it, but that is enough to visualize it. When you add a spacer, these two points diverge and it starts to cause another torque in the steering under braking and acceleration.

End result, spacers or incorrect offset of the wheels will significantly increase the amount of torque steer under acceleration and instability under braking.

I've run my race car back to back with and without, and there is definitely a performance trade off.

 

im interested in this too... update us!

 

sorry for not updating guys. Well it ended up taking about 12 mm to make the rears the way I wanted them and about 12 mm on the front as well I never left the spacers on the car mainly because with the spacers being out that much I would have had to extend the lugs. And that wasn't something I cared to do for something this minimal. however 12 mm more will bring the stock tires edge to the fender and it looks very good pictures did no justice. You couldn't see the detail in the pics. Didn't look any different from stock. and honestly if you didn't know the car you wouldn't notice it but it did look really good.

 

could u post pics?

 

Well here are the few i could find they are not great but like I said its not easy to see unless you see it in person. But it looked really good in person.


Before


After


Down the side after only the front was done in this pic.


I thought I had taken more pics but I may have deleted them. I don't think they made it from the camera to the computer LOL. I guess thats what happens when you stay busy LOL.

 

its not bad really brings the wheel closer to the fender =) i wonder what would be an agressive setting for the lancer.. i see evo with agressive wheel all the time but lancer never =(

 

been debating a 5mm on my rears of my 06... but pretty sure i need roll the fenders... but hearing what it could do make me think twice lol

 

hah ask robispec what he thinks.... he's one of the best suspension guys on this forum and he always runs them i beleive mainly on the fronts though. i use them on the fronts and love the way it handles. car doesnt push nearly as much. talk about premature failure and all.... if you keep your car up well, i'm sure theres alot of people just upgrading parts and changing oil...... i'm talking about really maintaining. you can get the performance and visual gain without a problem. up to you on keeping it up and tuned to run them. if you race those stock studs can break anyhow .... buy some arp's! haha good luck man

 

that looks nice but if you have to extend the lugs i don't think its worth it.

 

For the individual who wishes to purchase spacers, keep the following details in mind when ordering:

PCD must be 5x114.3
-Try to avoid universal fitting spacers.

The center bore of the spacer is 67.1
-The center bore (CB) is the size of the machined hole on the spacer that fits on the hub of the car. Your spacers should have a CB of 67.1 mm to exactly match and mate with the hub so it is kept in place without vibration and precisely positioned. This is "hub-centric."

Hub-centric vs. Lug-Centric
-As mentioned before, you want hub-centric, not lug-centric! Hub-centric is where the load bearing from your wheels is at the hub. All modern cars are hub load bearing.
-Lug-centric is where the load bearing from your wheels is at the studs, which can lead to premature failure of the studs or worse as the studs were designed to hold the spacer/wheel against the hub, not to hold the car up!
-Same principle applies to buying wheels without spacers, as you would want to purchase wheels with the correct CB to be hub-centric. An acceptable alternative is to fit an adapter so a bigger CB wheel can mate appropriately with the smaller hub size. Ex. 73mm CB wheel -> ring adapter -> 67.1mm hub.

Match the wheel's CB with the spacer's hub ring
-You've already made sure the CB of the spacer is 67.1, now you need to make sure the CB of the wheel can fit precisely on top of the spacer's ring. Many aftermarket wheels have a CB of 73mm to accommodate smaller hubs like ours. Make sure the spacer's hub ring is specifically 73mm as well (your wheel CB will vary, please check).
-Get plastic composite rings, not aluminum (exp. below). You can find any size from online vendors such as 1010tire.

5mm, 7mm, 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, or 25mm?
-A 5mm spacer will not require longer studs. Anything more than 7mm will require the use of extended 12x1.50 studs.
-If you have stock Enkei or BBS and want a slightly wider track without compromising safety, 15mm or 20mm spacers will do the trick.
-Going up to 25mm is considered aggressive and is usually not recommended, however if you know what you're doing 25mm should be the limit.
-The choice of what size spacers to go with is up to you, but if you are not sure post a question.

Get quality spacers
-Hardened aluminum such as A7075 Duraluminum is a good example.
-Recommended brands are Project Kics, H&R TRAK, or KSP-Real.



FAQ


Q. How do you calculate offsets with spacer width?
A. When a spacer is added, the thickness of the spacer is subtracted from the offset of the wheel to give the new offset. Ex. 18x8.5 +38 offset with 15mm spacer is +38-15, giving you 23mm as the new offset.

Q. I heard you don't need hub-centric spacers?
A. Wrong! A non-hub-centric spacer uses studs to center and bear the load of the wheel. Studs can not center the wheel, they are never in straight and if the wheel's load is transferred to it over time it will fail/break. Hub-centric spacers appropriately transfers the load directly to the hub itself. Hub-centric spacers, just like hub-centric rings will increase road feel and reduce vibration.

Q. Should I anodize or powder coat my spacers?
A. You should have gotten quality spacers to begin with so there is no need! Only poor quality spacers need anodizing and the paint might introduce vibrations.

Q. My spacers have a removable hub centric ring?
A. That should be fine provided that the CB is 67.1 to mate with the hub and the ring on the wheel side is the appropriate bore size, whatever it may be.

Q. I heard by running spacers in the front only you reduce understeer and the car rotates better?
A. For the Evo, many gymkhana drivers run a wider track in the front to help them turn, but they are running wider wheels with lower offset in the front compared to the back with same size tires and no spacer. Wider track in the front does help you turn but you need to adjust a lot more than just track to make it work well. If you are a daily driver, forget about it.

Q. I heard spacers were unsafe?
A. They will be safe if you follow the guidelines and stay with conservative widths. That said, it's better to get wheels with the correct offset in the first place - try to only use spacers as a last resort.

Q. I feel vibrations after installing spacers? Torque settings for spacers?
A. Make sure you have a hub ring and your spacers are hub-centric. Check torque settings:
-> 5mm spacers with no extended studs: Dry torque spacer + wheels down to the hub with 100 lb/ft force.
-> 10mm-20mm spacers with extended studs: Dry torque spacer to 100 lb/ft. Dry torque wheel on top of spacer to 80 lb/ft.

Q. Why do you recommend plastic composite rings over aluminum?
A. Plastic rings are better than aluminum for several reasons, one is that the hub of the car is cast iron, so if another type of metal is placed directly against it then the two will react and corrode as moisture gets in and may seize. The plastic rings act as an O-ring against the hub sealing two types of metal together, like on an oil filter. Some argue that anti-seize on the aluminum can take care of that problem - but why create a solution to a problem if you can avoid the problem in the first place? Both types are heat resistant but plastic costs less.