Crossmember Stud Problem
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Crossmember Stud Problem
I'm hoping for any suggestions about an issue In having. I had the front crossmember(subframe) replaced last April and several months ago I noticed an occasional clunk when I would hit the gas. I did a bit of investigating today (I know, I know, I should have looked into it sooner, and not trusted anyone but me to do a job right) and I noticed that both the nuts that hold up the front section of the subframe were backed out a bit. I figured no big deal, the studs are tack welded in place, I'll just torque them down and that's that. Well the driver side nut got pretty close to the top of the subframe and I felt almost like a slip on the breaker bar I was using to tighten the nut. I checked the stud and noticed there was vertical play in it and the nut wasn't turning anymore, but it was the entire stud that was spinning. I checked the passenger side and it already had play in it so I'm thinking I finished off the tack welds on the driver side, but the shop I had do the work killed the tack welds on the passenger side. I know how overzealous they are with impact guns but thought they would know better. I'm wondering if I am in fact right that these studs are tack welded to the frame and if there's any way that anyone knows to tighten the nuts without cutting into the frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I'm hoping for any suggestions about an issue In having. I had the front crossmember(subframe) replaced last April and several months ago I noticed an occasional clunk when I would hit the gas. I did a bit of investigating today (I know, I know, I should have looked into it sooner, and not trusted anyone but me to do a job right) and I noticed that both the nuts that hold up the front section of the subframe were backed out a bit. I figured no big deal, the studs are tack welded in place, I'll just torque them down and that's that. Well the driver side nut got pretty close to the top of the subframe and I felt almost like a slip on the breaker bar I was using to tighten the nut. I checked the stud and noticed there was vertical play in it and the nut wasn't turning anymore, but it was the entire stud that was spinning. I checked the passenger side and it already had play in it so I'm thinking I finished off the tack welds on the driver side, but the shop I had do the work killed the tack welds on the passenger side. I know how overzealous they are with impact guns but thought they would know better. I'm wondering if I am in fact right that these studs are tack welded to the frame and if there's any way that anyone knows to tighten the nuts without cutting into the frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Update
So I picked up some penetrating oil and soaked both nuts and bolts a few times. I was able to remove the passenger side nut and clean everything pretty good and get it torqued to spec, but the driver side still spins.
I have an es so I don't have the little gaps that the 08 evo had that I referred to for the idea for wedging a screwdriver in the frame to pin the head of the bolt. I tried, but just can't get the angle to pin the bolt head. Looks like the only option for the driver side is to have the frame cut to access it.
I'm wondering since I have 3 out of 4 mount points torqued to spec does anyone think it would be risky to drive in that condition (driving gently that is) until I can get to the shop and have them take care of it?
I have an es so I don't have the little gaps that the 08 evo had that I referred to for the idea for wedging a screwdriver in the frame to pin the head of the bolt. I tried, but just can't get the angle to pin the bolt head. Looks like the only option for the driver side is to have the frame cut to access it.
I'm wondering since I have 3 out of 4 mount points torqued to spec does anyone think it would be risky to drive in that condition (driving gently that is) until I can get to the shop and have them take care of it?
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