Replace brake pads
Originally Posted by gregivq
How many pads are we supposed to have for each side???
For example for the driver's side you have rotor and one brake pad or two?
Sorry for a stupid question but I'm at work and I can't check thigs out right now.
I'm talking about 2002-2003 OZ
For example for the driver's side you have rotor and one brake pad or two?
Sorry for a stupid question but I'm at work and I can't check thigs out right now.
I'm talking about 2002-2003 OZ
Originally Posted by gregivq
How many pads are we supposed to have for each side???
For example for the driver's side you have rotor and one brake pad or two?
Sorry for a stupid question but I'm at work and I can't check thigs out right now.
I'm talking about 2002-2003 OZ
For example for the driver's side you have rotor and one brake pad or two?
Sorry for a stupid question but I'm at work and I can't check thigs out right now.
I'm talking about 2002-2003 OZ
-N
I hate to be reviving such a dead thread, but I was curious how to put the rotor back on. I can't seem to get the nonmoving part of the brake caliper back on top of the rotor, the rotor wont go back far enough, any ideas?
I've done a search also and haven't come across any rotor changing how to's but figured this thread would be the best place to ask.
Also, tonight in my process of getting the brake caliper back ontop of the oem rotor the car slip off the oem jack (yes, my fault :-( didn't check out the new rotors from RRM which were OZ before I took off the old rotor) and I was curious if anywhere sells a rotor that's cheap and could be used temporarly for about 3 days and 200 odd miles--gotta drive back to school after all. Or would the old rotor be useable, although the cars weight fell on it? I can't look at it yet since it's not light enough to get everything up and make sure nothings broken.
I've done a search also and haven't come across any rotor changing how to's but figured this thread would be the best place to ask.
Also, tonight in my process of getting the brake caliper back ontop of the oem rotor the car slip off the oem jack (yes, my fault :-( didn't check out the new rotors from RRM which were OZ before I took off the old rotor) and I was curious if anywhere sells a rotor that's cheap and could be used temporarly for about 3 days and 200 odd miles--gotta drive back to school after all. Or would the old rotor be useable, although the cars weight fell on it? I can't look at it yet since it's not light enough to get everything up and make sure nothings broken.
Tanner, if you can't get teh caliper back onto the rotor, you've just got to make sure everything is pushed back on far enough. The caliper needs to be spread (piston pushed all the way back in) and the caliper has to be positioned with it's bolts in place so that you can put the nuts and bolts through it and hold it in place and the disc just gets pushed back onto the hub assembly. It's not held in place by anything - so just push it on and that's all there is to getting the disc back in place.
I have no idea if the rotor is still usable, but I don't think the Lancer pads really use the outermost edge of the rotor, depending on how much of a dent there is. I can't look at mine to verify that for you as I haven't had a Lancer for a couple months now unfortunately, but you can try and re-assemble things as is. If the rotor is damaged, it should just shake a lot when braking. It should be driveable, but probably not too bad for a short period of time.
-N
I have no idea if the rotor is still usable, but I don't think the Lancer pads really use the outermost edge of the rotor, depending on how much of a dent there is. I can't look at mine to verify that for you as I haven't had a Lancer for a couple months now unfortunately, but you can try and re-assemble things as is. If the rotor is damaged, it should just shake a lot when braking. It should be driveable, but probably not too bad for a short period of time.
-N
Looking at the wheel well this morning I noticed a small problem.... err large problem.
The "spacer" as I'm going to refer to it is moved so that I can't get the caliper back onto the car.
Spacer:

Top caliper screw:

Bottom caliper screw:

And I noticed this bend on the bottom of the "spacer."
Bottom up:

Side:

Please someone help me, I need to be able to get back to school on Sunday and the lancer's the only car I have to drive down there.
The "spacer" as I'm going to refer to it is moved so that I can't get the caliper back onto the car.
Spacer:

Top caliper screw:

Bottom caliper screw:

And I noticed this bend on the bottom of the "spacer."
Bottom up:

Side:

Please someone help me, I need to be able to get back to school on Sunday and the lancer's the only car I have to drive down there.
You guys do really need a big C-clamp to help clamp down on the caliper to open it. Since I have an ABS car, I'm too worried about brute forcing it the wrong way, slip, and break the sensor.
As for brake fluid, a cheap and somewhat effective way is to drain out the brake reservoir and fill it up w/ new brake fluid. Flushing out the brake fluid is a very tedious job needing 2-3 people. W/ just 1, you are not going to make it. To me, change brake fluid if it turned black like 5K mile oil.
Try changing the rear rotors. I always hated doing it. To many parts to lose in the grass. 4 disc setup for brake pad replacement is a breeze that can be done within an hour.
As for brake fluid, a cheap and somewhat effective way is to drain out the brake reservoir and fill it up w/ new brake fluid. Flushing out the brake fluid is a very tedious job needing 2-3 people. W/ just 1, you are not going to make it. To me, change brake fluid if it turned black like 5K mile oil.
Try changing the rear rotors. I always hated doing it. To many parts to lose in the grass. 4 disc setup for brake pad replacement is a breeze that can be done within an hour.
Well I know how to get everything on, but I can't figure out if it's important that I have that piece that has slid in someway to keep the screws from going through.
Anyone? I'm going to sears tomorrow to find out if it's fixable, but I need to know if it's necessary before I go so taht I can save time and money.
Anyone? I'm going to sears tomorrow to find out if it's fixable, but I need to know if it's necessary before I go so taht I can save time and money.
You've got to do something to straighten out that piece because that's what your calipe bolts to. You caliper has to be straight or your brakes will be very jittery at least.
-N
-N
hey guys, i've started to hear that squeeking noise on the front passenger side wheel. i figured that i should probably replace the brake pads. so i take off the wheel and get to the caliper. at this point i'm supposed to remove the smaller bolt at the bottom but i'm having a real hard time with it.
i even tried getting my friend to unscrew it but it's being really stubborn. i was wondering if you guys knew of a way to get it off, maybe some sort of secret technique that i haven't heard of because it seems like it's frozen on there.
thanks~
edit: oh, i forgot to say that this is for an 03 lancer ES.
i even tried getting my friend to unscrew it but it's being really stubborn. i was wondering if you guys knew of a way to get it off, maybe some sort of secret technique that i haven't heard of because it seems like it's frozen on there.
thanks~
edit: oh, i forgot to say that this is for an 03 lancer ES.
Don't just hit it harder - that will probably shear the bolt or break your wrench. Get some Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, or even WD40 and spray the bolt from every angle you can come up with. Wait a few minutes and then try again.
-N
-N
i just installed new brakes and rotors this weekend. While changing the pads i noticed that the piston was frozen on the drivers side. I purchased a new caliper and finished the instal. Now that side is getting extremely hot compared to the passenger side. Any idea what if could be?


