What about it is getting hotter? When is it getting hotter? How did you measure and where?
-N

 

i can feel the heat coming off the drivers side after i drive even for a short period of time. Other than just being able feel the heat radiating, sorry if this is gross, but i spit on both of them and the drivers side gave a much louder sizzle.

 

With the front up off the ground and transmission in neutral, can the wheels spin freely?
-N

 

Ill check when i get out of work. Thanks for the help and ill kepp you posted.

 

ok i jacked the car up and spun the wheel. It def seems like the brakes were on a little. Now i did have the ebrake on. Should that be off? If the ebrake doesnt matter why would my brakes be constantly on? did i receive a defect caliper?

 

Take that side appart and make sure your slider pins are properly greased. Clean them and regrease them if you have too.

Make sure your rotor is not sitting at an angle.

Make sure the same amount of force is used on all the lug nuts when you put your wheels back on. Use a torque wrench if you have one. If you don't have one, this would be a good time to get one.

 

Are the slider pins the ones that go into the rubber gaskets?

 

yes.
Actually, on the Lancer, the Slider pins are the 2 bolts you have to remove the get the caliper off.

 

what kind of lubricant can i use on them?

 

I need to get my brakes replaced soon as well, and when I saw this thread I figured I might be able to do it myself - but I can't see the pics from the OP on the first page. Can anyone else see them?

 

yeah i can see them. Its pretty easy pull the wheel off. Unscrew the bottom bolt on the bridge holding the pads. Replace them and put back together. If you are replacing rotors unscrew the two bigger bolts on the back of the caliper. remove rotor, put new one on and put back together.

 

Thanks Josh.

Would it be doable to also change the front discs myself? Or would I need a garage for that? Keep in mind I don't have any mechanical experience, but I'm willing to learn if it's not too hard A friend of mine should have any specific tools that are needed.

 

I really dont have any either. I just read this thread. Yeah you just have two other bigger bolts on the back of the caliper to take off. Just make sure the disc is flat when you test the brakes. While its still on the jack have someone hold the disc on and you pump the brakes. I did my discs and pads under my carport

 

You don't really need a specific skill set to do a complete brake job. Common sense is all you need, and a few tools of course.

Slider pin grease can be purchased from any store that sells brake parts.

Jack the car

Take the wheels off

Take off the 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place

Remove the caliper and put it aside where it won't be in your way. The fluid line will still be attached to the caliper so you'll have to either use a coat hanger to hang the caliper on the strut spring, or you can use an extra jack stand and sit the caliper on it.

With the caliper off, your pads are now exposed. Take them out and trash them.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper bracket, and put the caliper bracket aside

Now the disc should freely move and slide of the wheel studs. If it doesn't, smack it with a BFH until it comes loose. You don't give a damn about breaking or chipping it cause you're changing it anyway.

Put your brand spankin new rotor on

Put the caliper bracket on using the 2 bolts you previously removed

Put the new pads in

Push the caliper piston in(use a pry bar, vise-grips, a c-clamp or whatever to push it in)

Slide the caliper over the pads

Grease the slider pins and put them back on to secure the caliper

Put your wheels back on

Bedin your pads according to the manufacturer specs. Make sure you respect the required cool down time after you've done the break in of your pads. That is a very important step!!!

Enjoy.

 

Thanks for the writeup Blaze, I should do it within the next week or so