Clutch too soft.... sometimes wont engage..
Clutch too soft.... sometimes wont engage..
Hey guys its been a couple months since i bought my 02 OZ rally.. I bought it with 38k miles and I believe I am the 3rd owner of this car... This is my first car since I'm 16 years old. It is also my first manual tranny car. I kinda learned to drive stick on it. I mean i had the basic knowledge of it just not a lot of experience. It only stalled like couple times from me letting off the clutch too early and giving enough throttle. Ever since i learned i been driving the car normally and once in a while did a peelout or something.... lol .....
Well lately i noticed the clutch was kinda soft and car shakes when i change gears sometime.... Come to think of it maybe this is why i stalled out when i was learning... Anyways there is too much free play in the clutch pedal.... Prolly couple inches until it grabs or engages... Almost all the way to the floor.... Another thing i noticed, after i get off the highway from being in 5th gear for bout 10 min goin 60-70mph it is almost impossible to put the car in gear.... clutch hits the floor and wont engage... I have to pump it a few times to put the car in gear.... My cousin who does service repair at nissan opened the bleeder screw and let some fluid out and that made the clutch way better and engage point was like a brand new car.... but that only lasted like 2 days and went back to how i described above......
Can anyone tell me how to bleed the clutch. Is it by opening the bleeder screw and just pumping the clutch pedal till it all comes out.... And then add DOT3 fluid in the brake fluid tank thing on the drivers side under the hood.... or are my problems pointing in some other direction.. that costs more money
Sorry for the long post guys.... I just want to fix my car and not have to worry bout it messing up when im driving it... Thanks
Well lately i noticed the clutch was kinda soft and car shakes when i change gears sometime.... Come to think of it maybe this is why i stalled out when i was learning... Anyways there is too much free play in the clutch pedal.... Prolly couple inches until it grabs or engages... Almost all the way to the floor.... Another thing i noticed, after i get off the highway from being in 5th gear for bout 10 min goin 60-70mph it is almost impossible to put the car in gear.... clutch hits the floor and wont engage... I have to pump it a few times to put the car in gear.... My cousin who does service repair at nissan opened the bleeder screw and let some fluid out and that made the clutch way better and engage point was like a brand new car.... but that only lasted like 2 days and went back to how i described above......
Can anyone tell me how to bleed the clutch. Is it by opening the bleeder screw and just pumping the clutch pedal till it all comes out.... And then add DOT3 fluid in the brake fluid tank thing on the drivers side under the hood.... or are my problems pointing in some other direction.. that costs more money
Sorry for the long post guys.... I just want to fix my car and not have to worry bout it messing up when im driving it... Thanks
Well, start by bleeding first. Only will cost the time of two people for half and hour, bleeder "set", and Dot 3 fluid. Someone in the driver's seat and the other at the bleeder & brake fluid. Open bleeder with clear tube attached dumping into a coke bottle something. Pump the clutch and you should see fluid through the clear line and probably air bubbles. Keep your eye on the fluid level to make sure it never empties! Continue pumping the pedal until no air bubbles can be seen. Might take a while! If the peddle-pusher gets tired, hold down the pedal and close the bleeder.
Kinda the same process with the brakes too I guess.
Good luck!
Kinda the same process with the brakes too I guess.
Good luck!
so i keep adding the new fluid to the brake fluid reservoir right.... The one where it says use DOT3 fluid...and im gonna need to get a clear tube so i can see when there is no more air bubbles.. right?
Thanks for all the replies.. I will try all of that as soon as possible... But why did it get back to normal when I let some fluid out thru the bleeder screw... I didnt add more or anything... Then like a day later it went back to being soft... Maybe air in lines or something???
Last edited by ES_02; Jan 16, 2008 at 07:29 PM.
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OK so i bled it i think... lol..... Man it takes time when u gotta do it alone... I got some dot3 brake fluid from napa and filled up the reseirvor and unscrewed the bleeder and pumped pedal couple times... added some more fluid..pumped clutch pedal and kept doing that till the fluid that was coming out of the bleeder wasnt black anymore... lol IS THIS EVEN SUPPOSED TO BE LIKE BLACK FLUID... Then i tightened the bleeder and closed the cap with the fluid in the tank past maximum like its at the neck.... thats the only way the pedal will stay firm... when i empty it up to the maximum it goes softt....
So so far the engage point is better but we will see how long that lasts........
I'M NOT SURE IF I DID IT CORRECTLY TOWARDS THE END........ SHOULD I HAVE SOMEONE PRESS THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR AND HOLD IT WHILE I TIGHTEN THE BLEEDER SCREW.. AND DO THAT WHILE THE FLUID LEVEL IS AT THE MAXIMUM LINE????? CUZ I BELIEVE ITS BAD FOR THE FLUID TO BE OVERFILLED???
So so far the engage point is better but we will see how long that lasts........
I'M NOT SURE IF I DID IT CORRECTLY TOWARDS THE END........ SHOULD I HAVE SOMEONE PRESS THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR AND HOLD IT WHILE I TIGHTEN THE BLEEDER SCREW.. AND DO THAT WHILE THE FLUID LEVEL IS AT THE MAXIMUM LINE????? CUZ I BELIEVE ITS BAD FOR THE FLUID TO BE OVERFILLED???
Last edited by ES_02; Jan 17, 2008 at 11:24 AM.
You answered your own question! Yeah, you wanna keep the pedal to the floor while tightening the bleeder screw. Grab a friend, neighbor, random drunk, and tell them to pump the clutch while you watch for air in the lines. The fluid could have been dark, but not black. Good thing you're doing this!
OK guys i did everything and the clutch pedal got back to being hard and engage point was kinda at the begging.... felt like new..... anyways after driving it a little bit and right after i got off the highway the clutch pedal got way softer again.................WTFFF...... so wut else could be the issue here and how much does that costt.... like slave cylinder or something.... Another question if i keep driving the car like this will it get even more ****ed up or.... am i just risking being stranded somewhere???? sorry bout the bad typing....
ok i found this post
im just wondering because i didnt do it that way...... I JUST OPENDED THE BLEEDER SCREW PUMPED THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR LIKE 4 TIMES AND CLOSED THE BLEEDER SCREW... AND MY PEDAL WAS HARD AND NORMAL..... SHOULD I TRY IT AGAIN LIKE THE POST I QUOTED OR IS MY PROBLEM SOMETHING ELSE??????
had this problem too when i installed my stainless clutch line. The problem is that the clutch bleeder screw is kinda loose. So you can't really unscrew it as much as say you would a brake bleeder screw. Try removing the bleeder screw, wipe it dry, put some teflon tape on the threads and screw it back in. Have someone press on the clutch slowly, say about three seconds from start to stop. Have the person pressing the clutch say when the clutch pedal is about half way down. I know it's weird but our clutch cylinder doesn't produce enough positive pressure to bleed correctly until the pedal reached a certain point. You will start bleeding when the clutch is at the halfway point and stop before it reaches the floor.
Also have them say stop before the clutch is at the bottom of the floor. So it will go like this
-you say "Go" Assistant starts to press clutch pedal down
-assistant says "Go"(Clutch pedal is about half way down) you release the bleeder screw.
-assistant says "Stop"(Before clutch hits the floor, and continues to press the clutch pedal down) You close the bleeder screw while assistant still continues pressing the clutch down towards the floor.
Pedal is released and you begin the process again.
The pedal should never, during the bleeding process, be stopped or allowed to come back up. This will release the pressure and allow air to come thru the bleeder screw while it is open. You only bleed when the clutch is in the downwards motion.
Keep the brake fluid filled up maybe at most 1/4" from the top at all times to ensure that no air enters the system. This should help others with the same problem. Good luck!
Also have them say stop before the clutch is at the bottom of the floor. So it will go like this
-you say "Go" Assistant starts to press clutch pedal down
-assistant says "Go"(Clutch pedal is about half way down) you release the bleeder screw.
-assistant says "Stop"(Before clutch hits the floor, and continues to press the clutch pedal down) You close the bleeder screw while assistant still continues pressing the clutch down towards the floor.
Pedal is released and you begin the process again.
The pedal should never, during the bleeding process, be stopped or allowed to come back up. This will release the pressure and allow air to come thru the bleeder screw while it is open. You only bleed when the clutch is in the downwards motion.
Keep the brake fluid filled up maybe at most 1/4" from the top at all times to ensure that no air enters the system. This should help others with the same problem. Good luck!