clutch install
clutch install
so i am going to be helping my cousin change his clutch on his 02 OZ. i have done clutch work before...(i did the clutch in my tacoma) so i assume it cant be a whole lot different than that. im pretty mechanically inclined so im not worried about not being able to do it...i just need some direction. so i have a few questions for you guys since im not familiar with mitsubishi.
1) what clutch kit would you guys recommend? im not looking for top of the line but i dont need cheapo crap either.
2) will the kit come with everything i need?
3) i know my tacoma had a pilot bearing and a throw out bearing....is it the same on the lancer? i assume i need to replace both?
4)what all do i need to replace?
any other hints/tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
1) what clutch kit would you guys recommend? im not looking for top of the line but i dont need cheapo crap either.
2) will the kit come with everything i need?
3) i know my tacoma had a pilot bearing and a throw out bearing....is it the same on the lancer? i assume i need to replace both?
4)what all do i need to replace?
any other hints/tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Well the clutch kit you need depends on if you want just oem replacement or you want more performance.
I have a ACT MB8-XTSS kit.
The kit will only come with clutch plate, pressure plate and bolts.
You will need to either purchess a flywheel or have that one resurfaced.
Also you may want to replace the slave cylinder/TOB.
It's the same part.
There is no pilot bearing but there is a input shaft bearing, may want to replace that also.
I have a new input shaft bearing and 28,000 mile used flywheel if you're interested in either.
Also let me know if you need part numbers.
I have a ACT MB8-XTSS kit.
The kit will only come with clutch plate, pressure plate and bolts.
You will need to either purchess a flywheel or have that one resurfaced.
Also you may want to replace the slave cylinder/TOB.
It's the same part.
There is no pilot bearing but there is a input shaft bearing, may want to replace that also.
I have a new input shaft bearing and 28,000 mile used flywheel if you're interested in either.
Also let me know if you need part numbers.
he will probably need just a oem replacement or something close to equal.
so the throw out bearing and and slave cylinder are the same part? thats interesting.
yeah man if you have part numbers on hand that would be great! you dont have to spend a lot of time looking for them though.
so my parts list is:
-clutch kit(includes bolts, clutch disc, pressure plate)
-flywheel
-TOB/slave cylinder
-input shaft bearing
-and i would assume some anti-seize to put on the input shaft?
how much do you want for the shaft bearing and flywheel? id be interested.
so the throw out bearing and and slave cylinder are the same part? thats interesting.
yeah man if you have part numbers on hand that would be great! you dont have to spend a lot of time looking for them though.
so my parts list is:
-clutch kit(includes bolts, clutch disc, pressure plate)
-flywheel
-TOB/slave cylinder
-input shaft bearing
-and i would assume some anti-seize to put on the input shaft?
how much do you want for the shaft bearing and flywheel? id be interested.
Your parts list looks good.
Alot of people say replace the master cylinder at the same time you replace the slave.
Here is the posting with pics of my flywheel and input shaft bearing.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...ay-struts.html
Flywheel Shipped $30 and new Input shaft bearing $15.
For some reason I can't find the part number for the slave cylinder/TOB but you can get his vin number and call a mitsu dealer for the part number, it's like $130.
I got mine from Carquest, mitsu part though.
MD700207 is the part number for his input shaft bearing though.
It's really not a big job, the hardest part is getting the input shaft back in once your done.
Exedy makes what alot of people call a oem replacement clutch.
But you can find PHCV oem clutch/slave cylinder kits on ebay for next to nothing, like $140 shipped.
I don't know if they are good or not but they say "PHCV is the Original Equipment Manufacturer for Mitsubishi" so I don't know.
Cheap as hell though.
Alot of people say replace the master cylinder at the same time you replace the slave.
Here is the posting with pics of my flywheel and input shaft bearing.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sa...ay-struts.html
Flywheel Shipped $30 and new Input shaft bearing $15.
For some reason I can't find the part number for the slave cylinder/TOB but you can get his vin number and call a mitsu dealer for the part number, it's like $130.
I got mine from Carquest, mitsu part though.
MD700207 is the part number for his input shaft bearing though.
It's really not a big job, the hardest part is getting the input shaft back in once your done.
Exedy makes what alot of people call a oem replacement clutch.
But you can find PHCV oem clutch/slave cylinder kits on ebay for next to nothing, like $140 shipped.
I don't know if they are good or not but they say "PHCV is the Original Equipment Manufacturer for Mitsubishi" so I don't know.
Cheap as hell though.
thanks man. ill go ahead and grab that flywheel and bearing from you. i assume you take paypal? if you do go ahead and shoot me you paypal and final price with shipping. zip code would be 30152 if you think it will get there before thanksgiving or that friday after. if not ill give you a different zip code.
as far as putting the input bearing in, whats the best way to get that in? ....and out?
i decided to go with the excedy kit off ebay for 275. comes with the slave/tob too.
as far as putting the input bearing in, whats the best way to get that in? ....and out?
i decided to go with the excedy kit off ebay for 275. comes with the slave/tob too.
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Ok heres my advice to you. I have had the pleasure of having to swap out three clutches in my lancer. First one was when I bought the car, big learning process. Second was when I hydro'd my motor and blew three holes in the block, bought an aftermarket ebay clutch. Third time was just recently when that ebay clutch threw out a spring after 30,000 miles. So I've been pretty weathered in this situation.
Firstly, if you look at your stock clutch I guarantee that it will say EXEDY on it. I had one as my stocker and on the motor I bought from a junkyard, that was also the same clutch that was in it. Blew my mind.
Secondly, heres why you don't want an ebay clutch, or at least to be really careful. I'm not one to talk cause this most recent clutch replacement was also ebay, but a stock ebay clutch. Ebay clutches use a dual spring setup in that the four springs around the clutch are setup as a spring within a spring. The metal used to hold in the springs is also about 1/16th of an inch thick. On a stock clutch, it uses a single burly spring for the four springs and the metal that holds the spring in is about 1/8th of an inch. The reason my aftermarket ebay clutch failed was because that metal holding the springs in failed, wouldn't have happened on a stock clutch.
Thirdly, and this is just a bit of advice, the drivers side axle is a PITA to take out. Even with a pickle fork, you can't get it in at the correct angle to knock it out as there are little braces and bits of metal on the transmission that make it tough. It takes quite a bit of ingenuity to pull that sucker out. I would probably wait till you drop the motor a little ways down and then you would be able to get the pickle fork in at the correct angle to drop that axle. I always forget about this and have a fun time getting that axle out.
Fourth, when you pull the hubs off the struts, also undo the sway bar from the control arms. It will save you a TON of time when you go to reassemble the hubs to struts.
Fifth, make sure that clutch is in the correct way. Its strangely easy in my experience that if you don't pay attention, you can put it in backwards and bolt the pressure plate down and it will seem like its alright. Make sure you pay attention to that stock clutch.
Sixth, I promise promise promise you that you will regret using cheap fluid to refill. I've used valvoline cheapy, napa cheapy, and redline. The napa and valvoline effed up my tranny and made it really hard to shift into first when its cold, also ground gears alot more often. I ended up putting redline into it and now it shifts like butter. Costs you $35 worth of fluid but worth EVERY penny. BTW our trannies are GL-4 trannies so try to look for fluid that will work well with that. Don't listen to honda guys telling you to run pure motor oil, their transmissions are much different than ours. Motor oil will actually EAT our tranny components.
If I think of anything else, I'll post it up, but that was pretty much all the advice I've got, hope it helps.
Firstly, if you look at your stock clutch I guarantee that it will say EXEDY on it. I had one as my stocker and on the motor I bought from a junkyard, that was also the same clutch that was in it. Blew my mind.
Secondly, heres why you don't want an ebay clutch, or at least to be really careful. I'm not one to talk cause this most recent clutch replacement was also ebay, but a stock ebay clutch. Ebay clutches use a dual spring setup in that the four springs around the clutch are setup as a spring within a spring. The metal used to hold in the springs is also about 1/16th of an inch thick. On a stock clutch, it uses a single burly spring for the four springs and the metal that holds the spring in is about 1/8th of an inch. The reason my aftermarket ebay clutch failed was because that metal holding the springs in failed, wouldn't have happened on a stock clutch.
Thirdly, and this is just a bit of advice, the drivers side axle is a PITA to take out. Even with a pickle fork, you can't get it in at the correct angle to knock it out as there are little braces and bits of metal on the transmission that make it tough. It takes quite a bit of ingenuity to pull that sucker out. I would probably wait till you drop the motor a little ways down and then you would be able to get the pickle fork in at the correct angle to drop that axle. I always forget about this and have a fun time getting that axle out.
Fourth, when you pull the hubs off the struts, also undo the sway bar from the control arms. It will save you a TON of time when you go to reassemble the hubs to struts.
Fifth, make sure that clutch is in the correct way. Its strangely easy in my experience that if you don't pay attention, you can put it in backwards and bolt the pressure plate down and it will seem like its alright. Make sure you pay attention to that stock clutch.
Sixth, I promise promise promise you that you will regret using cheap fluid to refill. I've used valvoline cheapy, napa cheapy, and redline. The napa and valvoline effed up my tranny and made it really hard to shift into first when its cold, also ground gears alot more often. I ended up putting redline into it and now it shifts like butter. Costs you $35 worth of fluid but worth EVERY penny. BTW our trannies are GL-4 trannies so try to look for fluid that will work well with that. Don't listen to honda guys telling you to run pure motor oil, their transmissions are much different than ours. Motor oil will actually EAT our tranny components.
If I think of anything else, I'll post it up, but that was pretty much all the advice I've got, hope it helps.
wow so i have to drop the engine down, take the spindles/hub out and pull the cv axles?
i was not aware of having to do all this. i guess im just think more of how my truck is and not used to cars. i guess that makes sense. so the cv alxes go straight into the tranny?
good info though. i always use mobile1 or redline gear oil
i was not aware of having to do all this. i guess im just think more of how my truck is and not used to cars. i guess that makes sense. so the cv alxes go straight into the tranny?
good info though. i always use mobile1 or redline gear oil
All I can say is make sure you have all the parts you need to do this job before you start.
I thought this step by step HBZ posted might help as well.
This is what I used to make sure I didn't forget anything.
(Include a few notes by myself)
* well to take the axles out of the tranny you need to drain the tranny fluid take off the wheels then unbolt the struts then what you wanna do is remove that huge retaining nut in the middle of the spindle (it's 1-1/4") you'll need to hold the brake down to break this nut loose, unless you have air tools
* push that side of the cv through the back of spindle so you have the cv just conected to the tranny
* get a special cv joint removal tool (prybar lol) stick it in between the tranny and cv joint making sure you dont cut the cv joint seal (becareful not to pull to hard on the cv or it WILL pull apart. Just pry it instead
* once you have the 2 cv out remove all the sensor wiring from the mounts on the tranny (ecept the speed sensor one as this is a ***** to unplug)
* take out the 2 14mm bolt thats hold int he starter
* take out the 1 10 mm bolt that holds in the speed sensor
* take off the 2 shifter cables
* then take out the 3 17mm bolts that hold on the front cross member
* remove the 14mm nut/bolt from the front motor mount
* then take out the 14mm nut/bolt from the rear motor mount
* then remove all but one top and one bottom of the 14mm bolts that hold the tranny to the motor there are some cmoing from the drivers side and some from the pasenger
* get a tranny jack (if you have one a floor jack works good )
jack it up untill it GENTLY pushes up on the tranny
* after you have it up take off the nut bolt that holds the driver side tranny mount to the case and remove the 4 nuts that hold the mount to the tranny
* lower the tranny down so it hangs
* make sure there are no wiring harnesses left atached to the tranny
* pull the tranny out tword the driver side and it should be free
it doesent take much to get the thing apart if you get a smalll pry bar in between the tranny and motor it should come out rather easy if it doesent more then likely there is a bolt you missed that you just cant see
* remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel
* remove the old pressure plate and disk put the new one on make sure the side of the disk that stick out farther goes twords the tranny
* put on a few of the bolts that hold the plate to the flywheel dont make em tight yet
* line up the disk with a clutch alignment took or with your eyes and finger (i dont use the tool personaly) mci2727 used a tool!
* after you line it up tighten down the bolts in the "star pattern" make sure you only tighten them to 14 +- 2 ft-lb they dont go on super tight youll break emm off
* then just put everythign back together
Pretty much covers it all.
You've got to kinda rock the tranny side to side to get the input shaft to line up right sometimes.
This is what I used to make sure I didn't forget anything.
(Include a few notes by myself)
* well to take the axles out of the tranny you need to drain the tranny fluid take off the wheels then unbolt the struts then what you wanna do is remove that huge retaining nut in the middle of the spindle (it's 1-1/4") you'll need to hold the brake down to break this nut loose, unless you have air tools
* push that side of the cv through the back of spindle so you have the cv just conected to the tranny
* get a special cv joint removal tool (prybar lol) stick it in between the tranny and cv joint making sure you dont cut the cv joint seal (becareful not to pull to hard on the cv or it WILL pull apart. Just pry it instead
* once you have the 2 cv out remove all the sensor wiring from the mounts on the tranny (ecept the speed sensor one as this is a ***** to unplug)
* take out the 2 14mm bolt thats hold int he starter
* take out the 1 10 mm bolt that holds in the speed sensor
* take off the 2 shifter cables
* then take out the 3 17mm bolts that hold on the front cross member
* remove the 14mm nut/bolt from the front motor mount
* then take out the 14mm nut/bolt from the rear motor mount
* then remove all but one top and one bottom of the 14mm bolts that hold the tranny to the motor there are some cmoing from the drivers side and some from the pasenger
* get a tranny jack (if you have one a floor jack works good )
jack it up untill it GENTLY pushes up on the tranny
* after you have it up take off the nut bolt that holds the driver side tranny mount to the case and remove the 4 nuts that hold the mount to the tranny
* lower the tranny down so it hangs
* make sure there are no wiring harnesses left atached to the tranny
* pull the tranny out tword the driver side and it should be free
it doesent take much to get the thing apart if you get a smalll pry bar in between the tranny and motor it should come out rather easy if it doesent more then likely there is a bolt you missed that you just cant see
* remove the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel
* remove the old pressure plate and disk put the new one on make sure the side of the disk that stick out farther goes twords the tranny
* put on a few of the bolts that hold the plate to the flywheel dont make em tight yet
* line up the disk with a clutch alignment took or with your eyes and finger (i dont use the tool personaly) mci2727 used a tool!
* after you line it up tighten down the bolts in the "star pattern" make sure you only tighten them to 14 +- 2 ft-lb they dont go on super tight youll break emm off
* then just put everythign back together
Pretty much covers it all.
You've got to kinda rock the tranny side to side to get the input shaft to line up right sometimes.
cool man thanks. doesnt seem too bad.
ive replaced a ton of cv axles on my truck and seems about the same procedure.(i keep breaking them from offroading lol.) ive got it down to swapping them out in 30 mins. the rest of it seems pretty straight forward.
sounds like i have all the tools to cover it too
ive replaced a ton of cv axles on my truck and seems about the same procedure.(i keep breaking them from offroading lol.) ive got it down to swapping them out in 30 mins. the rest of it seems pretty straight forward.
sounds like i have all the tools to cover it too