itsTyrone

was it a simple procedure? mine started making a grind/buzzing sound at 2k rpm only, and goes away immediately when i decrease/increase the rpms. Im assuming its the CVT anyhow, im at around 165k and should probably dump the oil. Im not sure if the previous owner did or not, I bought it at 140k. Is it just a matter of a few bolts to dump the atf?

itsTyrone

09 lancer gts

bluelizard

With the cost of CVT fluid required for the car vs. the usual dealer price, I got my CVT fluid changed for $180 at 64k miles. The DIY way would have been more labor intensive and may cost more since flushing without the equipment would mean buying more fluid to clean out the system. I asked when should I change the trans. filter and they suggested 120k miles for $350, part included. Not a bad deal, but these days maybe independent Mitsubishi shops are offering the same service for a bit less.

09LancerGts1

1. With a car that has been sitting for hours, Get a 19mm Socket and Ratchet
2. The bolt has a feel when you loosen it, very light, a LITTLE snug
3. Put drain pan under neath, then loosen nut and "away you go"
4. When you see slow drips, put the bolt back in, and snug it a LITTLE like the way you loosened it
5. Make sure your funnel is clean and you have a Lint free cloth handy, "CAREFUL" nothing is on dipstick when you put it back in, even rub it with fingers to double check
6. Add 4 quarts first of the CVT J4 Geniune Fluid (from the dealership) this costs about 20 bucks a quart at dealership, don't be cheap, I used about 4.5 quarts, take your time, if you overfill then you have to loosen that bolt again and drop some fluid out at a time
7. Keep checking your level, I first filled the level, while cold, Centered on the middle notch between cold and hot, when reached operating temperature, I checked the level and it was just above the cold notch(mark), I added little bits of fluid until the fluid was in the middle of the Hot area. I Checked the dipstick the next morning(when cold) and its not a good guide so dont really trust it at all
8. Drive car for 20 minutes and park with car still running
9. Check the CVT dipstick 2 -3 times while hot and car is running (there is a trick to properly check a transmission dipstick, check you tube if unsure)
10. If the Hard to see fluid is within the marks of Hot, you are GOLDEN, add or remove fluid to correct. This drain should have gotten out 80 percent of old fluid. Repeat every 2 Years. MEOW

J2K10LANCER

i have never serviced my 2010 mitsubishi lancer ES. Is it necessary to change the filter on the inside of the CVT transmission? Or can i just drain and change the fluid? also where is the fill plug for the transmission? i am also getting a low pitch humming from the transmission.

09LancerGts1

Don't bother with the filter inside the CVT. The fill plug I couldn't tell you, I just took a long narrow funnel into the transmission dipstick tube AFTER I drained the fluid and put the 19 mm bolt back in with the same tightness. Added 4 quarts of the dealership CVT j4 Geniune fluid. I then started car for 10 minutes and added the rest until dipstick was at hot level. Your best bet honestly is to sell that car for BLUE BOOK only and get a Honda civic. I sold my lancer gts because I am in the Midwest, it handled like crap in the snow, the tire sensors would corroded, the tires would wear, and I have never been happier. SELL SELL SELL.

Genhero

iTrader: (1)

Honda Civic and a Lancer are both fwd open differential. The only improvement you could get would be tires. I use snow tires on my lancer and never have a problem. My all seasons were scary to drive with.

As for the filter? I wouldn't worry about it. Its a risk but cvts don't have as many wear parts like normal autos. 2 pulleys instead of clutch plates and bands.

trkrwif

just picked up an 08 Lancer GTS and was wondering on the Eneos fluid. Is there any special designation to it or just the nonslip cvt fluid. Thanks for the great posts.

Genhero

iTrader: (1)

They only make 2 CVT fluids that I know of -- a blend (conical bottle shaped) and full synthetic (short rectangle shape). Both will say compatible with jatco cvt-j1 or something like that.

I'm sitting in traffic so I can't look it up to post a pic.

usmcmondogecko

Does anyone know where to get a PDF of the 2010 Lancer Service Manual? Or Shop Manual? I am looking to change filter/transmission oil. Thank you guys! No one here seems to know where the filter and oil drain is located. Any Pics would be amazing. Thank you!

Genhero

iTrader: (1)

The transmission oil drain is right on the bottom of the transmission, can't miss it once you get under there. As for the filter, that is harder to get to. It's not in an easily serviceable place. It is on the passenger side below the battery pan pointing towards the fender. You will see either 2 hoses (or 4 hoses if you have a trans oil cooler) coming out of piece of metal that kind of looks like an aluminum coffee mug with no handle. That whole piece comes off and the filter is in there.

I didn't change my filter, from my understanding the dealer doesn't change them on oil changes either. I changed just the oil on mine to eneos. No problems so far. I'm up to 128k and still driving it 4 hours a day (42 miles each way in traffic).

I would take a picture of it but my gf and I swapped cars so I can fix her Audi and don't have the lancer near me.
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Buddaboy14

I do know that this thread is old, but I’ve had my 2014 lancer Es since it had 128k miles, and it just rolled over 140k, and I’m getting the over heating light and a slight whine when that light comes on, been looking at videos and everything to change the oil, but everyone is saying to stay with oem, but I’m coming from owning a 2001 F150 and I used “aftermarket” oils in it and it had over 200k miles, and I beat the crap out of that truck. I drive this car hard, but I don’t think it’s hard enough, but if I go with a ams oil or a different CVT fluid that is J1-J4 will it hurt the trans or help it? I’ve rebuilt motors and stuff on American cars, but I’m not “up to date” on this side of the spectrum. Thanks for your reply

Genhero

iTrader: (1)

If it is already overheating and whining no one can really say whether a fluid change will help it or push it over the edge, CVTs are kind of luck of the draw but at this point I'd say it is worth a shot. I put eneos full synthetic in, as far as I know eneos is a mitsubishi company and it was the only other compatible fluid; there are probably more now but I don't know. That was at 90k or so miles. My friend's daughter now owns it and it has over 140k miles with no problem.

Out of curiosity, did your car have a transmission oil cooler on it?

Buddaboy14

No Trans cooler, you think adding one might help?

Genhero

iTrader: (1)

I'm a big fan of trans coolers on CVTs, I know a lot of people without trans coolers had issue in the early years of this generation. As far as adding one now with that transmissions advanced age, I'd figure out how long I wanted to keep the car and if the transmission goes would I replace the transmission or get rid of the car. If you would just replace the trans to keep it longer then I'd recommend retro fitting a cooler.