eburhans

DESCRIPTION: The noise sounds as if there is a bolt jumping around inside the transmission. I have been told it is most likely a bearing going bad.

CASES:
1. When I push the clutch petal the noise goes away.
2. As I speed up the sound also speeds up.
3. I do not hear the noise after about 35 mph

WHAT I HAVE DONE:
1. 70K miles ago I replaced the Flywheel, Clutch, Clutch Housing, Slave Cylinder. (Did not have this issue)

2. Dropped the Transmission and removed the clutch.
(Clutch was OK, Flywheel was Tight, Slave Cylinder looks good)


3. So I continued to break the Transmission Case Open. (Pictures Below)

4. I removed the gears, trying to dig down to the "Input Shaft Bearing". From what I have been told this could be the issue. I noticed on the Bearing the ***** were scratched and worn. I am assuming this should be replaced but I am unable to find the part (Pictures Below).



QUESTIONS:
1. Where do I find the correct part?
2. Should I replace any other parts while I have the case open?
3. Anyone have any other ideas based on the pictures what other parts might be causing the noise?

blaze_125

iTrader: (8)

When I got mine done, we got our parts from the Dealer.

eburhans

I ordered the parts from the dealer:
- Input Shaft Bearing ($38)
- Input Shaft Seal ($9)

Since most of the forums I have been reading state to replace them both.

I was NOT inpressed with how Mitsubishi engineer their Input Shaft, the bearing was attached to the shaft with a Snap Ring which no tools could remove. I looked everywhere for a solution. Finally I got a Pin Punch and with two hits of the hammer it came off perfectly.

As for removing the bearing from the shaft - Again an impossible task. The gear puller did not work, broke a number of times. I am going to have to have it replaced at Advanced Auto with their Warrenty Program. According to the manual there is a special tool to remove this bearing. I attempted at making my own jig, which worked, but still I could not budge the bearing loose.

I finally hooked up the Gear Puller and made it as tight as I could without bending the metal. I then proceeded to "Very Gently" knock is off the shaft with a hammer (Going side to side).. Then I would retighten the Gear Puller and knock it again with the hammer. Took about 30 minutes to move the bearing about one inch and off the Input Shaft.

Task Completed!!!! Now I am just waiting for the part and a solution on how to get the new gear on the Input Shaft, I hope it is easier.

After removing the bearing - I am almost 100% sure this part was what was making noise, I hope.

eburhans

Well I have completed the work on my car.

It seems to Input Shaft Bearing was bad... When I start my car there is no noise!!!!!!



I refilled the Transmission with Royal Purple. You can pick this item up at Advance Auto $18.00 a quart. Throw a couple in the cart and then use the $25 off $60 coupon. It brings the price of them down to about $11 a quart.

Great deal!!!

eusgen

iTrader: (5)

Glad to hear you got your problem fixed.

My 3rd gear grinds sometimes(a lot) and my transmission shifts kinda... sh!tty. How difficult would it be to replace the gears? Should I replace anything else if I did this? I have never done engine or transmission work but I am determined to figure it out.

corndog17

iTrader: (4)

What did your axle seals look like on the transmission case? Did you replace those as well?

eburhans

If you wanted to replace the gears - I would make sure you had the right tools to pull the gears off the shafts. Judging by the pain I had just to remove the Input Shaft Bearing.

I would find a breakout of the transmission on the internet or just stop by the local dealer and have them print you a copy of the breakout. They lookup the parts by VIN, be sure to take it in with you.

Always replace the seals, even if they look good. They are cheap and most of the time easy to install.

When my Mazda Transmission was rebuilt under warrenty because my third gear would never stay in place - they replaced the entire Input Shaft... Well rebuilt it. Probably overkill but it was under warrenty.

As for the Transaxle Seals - I did replace one of them this time around. At 140K I left them alone when replacing the Clutch. I even ripped the flange on one of them; used Super Glue to repair it... It held. This time at 204K when tearing down the Transmission I figured I would replace the one transaxle seal. The part ran about $30 at the dealer but they let me have it for $15. Way overpriced for a seal. Now installing the seal - I thought it would be simple. Took me almost 30 minutes to install the seal. I did not have the correct tools to put pressure on all sides of the seal at one time when pushing it into place. Eventually I just took a hammer and beat it into place. Regardless, the seal has held. Very tight fit.

I would not replace the seals unless you have the time and money to do so. I really did not see a point to replacing them when they were not leaking and I could see the seals from looking around the drive shaft.

FYI: I am learning like most of you as I go. I have a Mazda which lost Third Gear AGAIN - - - about 100K after the warrenty work I mentioned above. This time I will be rebuilding some parts on the input shaft. Syncro and 3/4 Fork are suspect. This car also has issues with an Axle which I think is out of round. One thing at a time, I will learn as I go.

corndog17

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the middle of replacing my differential how did you pull up on the 3rd - 4th and 5th shift forks to clear the transmission case and slide them out of the way in he direction shown in the FSM? I'm pulling and pulling and the shift forks still aren't clearing thanks

eburhans

I was having the same trouble because the Service Manual did on clearly show what was really being done. I had to run to Lowes and pick up a Pin Punch Kit ($10.00). You have to remove the pins from the forks by punching them from the front of the fork towards the inside of the case. They will fall out and it will allow you to move the fork seperatly from the metal rod. Without doing this step you will never clear the case.

corndog17

iTrader: (4)

What size Pins do I need to replace the ones I punch out?

eburhans

I inspected the spring pins to insure they looked fine, which they did, so I reused the same spring pins. Keep in mind my transmission has over 200K and there were no issues to the spring pins. If you doubt yourself you can call the dealer and give them our VIN number to get a price for replacement spring pins. Probably would only run a couple dollars and seeing as they will keep your forks in place, well worth the price to replace with stock parts.

Now if you are asking for the size of the pin punch, I am unsure. Since I purchased a set of them I tried each size until I found the one which fit the exact size of the hole.

corndog17

iTrader: (4)

Lol I got one of the punches stuck in the spring pin and that sucker isn't coming out I'm going to need to take it somewhere it get it removed, I tore up the shift fork a bit trying to chisel it out prolly replace that. Any ideas? Thanks

eburhans

Almost ran down the same path but then started to google how to remove the spring pins and run across the Pin Punch.


You can try to use a heat to help release the pin from the punch or others have stated putting the item in the freezer and then trying. I use a blow torch to help release bolts which will not budge, it works great.

corndog17

iTrader: (4)

New reverse/5th gear rod and fork plus spring pins 174.00! Expensive lesson lol

corndog17

iTrader: (4)

Replacing the input shaft seal as well and input shaft bearing yay! Getting the transaxle seals as well.