oil light comes on at idle?
Hey I am getting the same issue, oil light would flicker, but disappears when I step on the gas. I plugged my OBD and it gives NO code, checked oil level and it is full so no leaks. Any of you guy solved this problem ?, my '03 only has less than 60,000kms on it !
crawl underneath and look up to the wire connector on the sensor, its right next to the filter , squeeze the clip n pull the wire off clean the tab on the sender with sandpaper to make it shiny put dielectric grease on the tab and reinstall the wire...
i work at mitsubishi and own 2 and a dodge that uses the mitsu sensor, they all corrode , the reason it goes out when you rev is the wire gets no vibration through the block or at least alot less then at idle , when the wire shakes it kicks on the light makin it flicker ...
its a bad enough design that my lancer will now get a autometer gauge along with my talon TsI
Option number 2 is your throttle body idle air control motor is sticky likely from years of ****ty gas and never being cleaned,
seafoam will not get to it to clean it totally!! and unfortunetly isnt a miracle cure for actually removing it and cleaning it Im sure it cannot be good for the mdp sensor either since liquid normally never touches it,
normal idle is around 800-900 at idle when warm...take off the iac clean it and reinstall it and you'll be good to go..
i work at mitsubishi and own 2 and a dodge that uses the mitsu sensor, they all corrode , the reason it goes out when you rev is the wire gets no vibration through the block or at least alot less then at idle , when the wire shakes it kicks on the light makin it flicker ...
its a bad enough design that my lancer will now get a autometer gauge along with my talon TsI
Option number 2 is your throttle body idle air control motor is sticky likely from years of ****ty gas and never being cleaned,
seafoam will not get to it to clean it totally!! and unfortunetly isnt a miracle cure for actually removing it and cleaning it Im sure it cannot be good for the mdp sensor either since liquid normally never touches it,
normal idle is around 800-900 at idle when warm...take off the iac clean it and reinstall it and you'll be good to go..
Last edited by turbolancer02; Mar 25, 2010 at 05:48 PM.
crawl underneath and look up to the wire connector on the sensor, its right next to the filter , squeeze the clip n pull the wire off clean the tab on the sender with sandpaper to make it shiny put dielectric grease on the tab and reinstall the wire...
i work at mitsubishi and own 2 and a dodge that uses the mitsu sensor, they all corrode , the reason it goes out when you rev is the wire gets no vibration through the block or at least alot less then at idle , when the wire shakes it kicks on the light makin it flicker ...
its a bad enough design that my lancer will now get a autometer gauge along with my talon TsI
Option number 2 is your throttle body idle air control motor is sticky likely from years of ****ty gas and never being cleaned,
seafoam will not get to it to clean it totally!! and unfortunetly isnt a miracle cure for actually removing it and cleaning it Im sure it cannot be good for the mdp sensor either since liquid normally never touches it,
normal idle is around 800-900 at idle when warm...take off the iac clean it and reinstall it and you'll be good to go..
i work at mitsubishi and own 2 and a dodge that uses the mitsu sensor, they all corrode , the reason it goes out when you rev is the wire gets no vibration through the block or at least alot less then at idle , when the wire shakes it kicks on the light makin it flicker ...
its a bad enough design that my lancer will now get a autometer gauge along with my talon TsI
Option number 2 is your throttle body idle air control motor is sticky likely from years of ****ty gas and never being cleaned,
seafoam will not get to it to clean it totally!! and unfortunetly isnt a miracle cure for actually removing it and cleaning it Im sure it cannot be good for the mdp sensor either since liquid normally never touches it,
normal idle is around 800-900 at idle when warm...take off the iac clean it and reinstall it and you'll be good to go..
Back from the dead... the same flickering oil light just started happening to me. I'm assuming the OPS is going bad. The shop I have it at is doing an oil test to make sure there's no debris in it. They're telling me that if they find debris it means they'll essentially have to do a rebuild. I'm hoping its just the sending unit.
Last edited by Maverick158; May 27, 2011 at 11:20 AM.
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