Below is a guide for removing the clutch for an EVO that I altered for my 2002 lancer ES. I removed the parts that didn't apply to our vehicle & added what was needed and changed some things to make it easier... like not having to remove the driver's side axle.

Underhood before jacking up:
Disconnect battery
Remove the air-box and intake pipe


Remove battery and battery box holder
Remove Upper IC pipe from manifold to buy the fans

Disconnect all wiring from top of tranny side

Remove cotter pins and washers from shifter linkage

Remove 3 12 mm bolts holding down linkage assembly and metal piece holding down slave cylinder line


Untorque front wheels about 2 turns then jackup and set jackstands and remove jack Remove front wheels from car

Under the car:
Remove plastic undertray, this is a pain, but take your time so you don't break it
Remove the tranny centermember that runs from front to back, 2 19 mm bolts front and 1 19 mm bolt rear, remove 14 mm bolt and nut from mount and remove corssmember
Disconnect the starter electircal wires
Remove starter from vehicle, 2 bolts, I believe they are 14 mm

Remove 3 or 4 bolts for the small metal plate for the bellhousing(flywheel) access cover, and 2 10mm phillips head screws
Drain the transmission

Support the engine side:
I made this support out of a rough 2"x4" piece of lumber, a 8" long 1/2" eye bolt, washer, and a chain hook. I got this idea from one of my trusty mechanic friends and hooked onto the engine where the intake tubing bolts on. Total cost was $11 at hardware store plus the cost of the 2x4.


Axles and removal:
I only removed the passenger side axle from the car, the driver's side axle can stay connected to the hub and be swung out of the way

Driver side wheel hub removal:
Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the brake line on the strut.
Remove stabalizer bar from the control arm.
Remove the tie rod end.
Remove ball joint nut & bolt.
Have someone get in the car and firmly apply the brakes, or get an approved holder to stop the wheel from turning when breaking the axle nut
Use a breaker bar and I believe 1.25" socket on the axle nut to break it loose
After broken loose remove the nut and large crush washer
Remove 2 bolts that connect the control arm & remove control arm to prevent damage of the ball joint.
Remove the three 13 mm nuts from the top of the strut assembly in the engine compartment, be careful to not let the hanging of the rotor and caliper assembly to break any of the ABS, speed sensor, or brake lines.

Remove the hub & strut assembly carefully from the splines not to scratch the back side of the caliper. Move this assembly down under the car out of the way being careful to not bend the brake line too far.


Passenger side Axle:
Use a small pry bar or (I found that wedging a chisel between the axle & tranny and hitting with a hammer sideways was all I could get in there) in-between the axle and the transmission to pry away the axle
Remove the axle from the tranny and swing aside towards the front of the car
Support the rotor and hub assembly by using one of the 19mm bolts back into the strut

Transfer-case removal:

There are 6 bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission, 3 on top and 3 on the bottom
Remove the 3 bolts on the top, the hardest bolt to understand is one that is not directly next to the tranny, it is a long bolt that is closest to the rear of the car
Remove that bolt and then the other two that are next to the tranny, I removed these from under the car reaching from the passenger side to the bolts, they all face towards the passeger side
Remove the 3 bolts on the bottom side of the transfer case assembly
By lifting up the driveshaft from behind the subframe it is possible to seperate the transfer case from the tranny, a little prying may be needed but careful not to go too far into the transfer case
It now should be possible to seperate the transfer case from the tranny and now move it as far towards the passenger side of the car as possible

Rear Mount on driver side:
There are 3 bolts that hold this mount to the tranny, they are very hard to get to although very possible once acheived, the service manual only shows two bolts but there are in fact 3 bolts

(Optional) Remove the long bolt holding the mount to the car, jacking up the tranny will be required to make this bolt loose
Remove the 3 bolts holding this mount to the tranny
Remove the mount from the car

Tranny removal part 1:
There are I believe 6 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine, one must be accessed from under the car and must be removed from the passenger side, the rest must be removed from the side and top side of the tranny from the driver side above the engine bay, they are all 14mm bolts
Remove all of these bolts


Driver Side Mount removal:
Remove the long bolt that holds the mount to the car, jacking up the engine will be required to make this bolt loose
Remove the bolt and nut
Remove the 4 nuts that hold the mount to the transaxle
Lower the engine slowly
Remove the mount from the tranny


Tranny removal part 2:
Support the tranny with a jack
All that is holding the tranny onto the car now is the spline for the clutch disc and the throw-out bearing
Now slowly lower the tranny jack and move the tranny around to remove it from the splines of the disc
If you like being crushed by the weight of a very heavy tranny get under it like me to support the weight of it coming down, or get some old tires to support the tranny so it doesn't smack on the ground
Tranny should be out now, time for a break :P


Clutch removal:
I belive there are 8 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel
Remove these bolts
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc


Flywheel removal(Optional depending on Flywheel condition):
Remove the 7 bolts from the flywheel
Remove flywheel from engine

Throwout bearing removal:
Take the tranny out from under the car and place in a well-lit area to inpect the bearing, most of the time on low-mileage installs it doesn't need to be replaced, although if you have a new one make sure it is as good as the OE unit and you should replace if you have the new part anyways
To remove the bearing by removing the three bolts.

Installation:
If you follow all these steps in an opposite order you should be able to reassamble it, I will make a reinstall writeup if demand asks for it


I hope that this helps someone out there that is trying to replace their clutch. The whole process took probably about 4 days... mainly cuz I had to replace my control arm due to damaging the ball joint boot on removing it. So next time I will completely remove the control arm to prevent this from happening. Also as you will notice from my instructions... if you remove the whole wheel and strut assembly together you won't have to worry about removing the tough strut bolts. This made the process a ton easier.