Need help Troubleshooting... EGR Valve Maybe
Need help Troubleshooting... EGR Valve Maybe
I have a 2002 lancer es - no mods. My service engine soon light came on a couple months ago and since I was barely driving the car I just ignored it and it went off. Then I started driving it a bit more and it was off and on then finally stayed on. I went to advanced auto last week and had them read the code, the guy didnt tell me the code number but he did tell me that it was the EGR Valve. He wasnt very helpful but he reset the code and said if the light comes back on then I should get it looked at. Well my car was running 100% fine and I did not notice any hesitation or rough idleing, or anything out of the norm. I decided to clean the EGR Valve anyways since I have 110,000 miles on my car and it has never been done. I didnt want to buy a new one considering they are almost $200. I cleaned the valve with carb cleaner and a lot of crap came out. I reinstalled the valve and after a few days of driving the light came back on again.
I hate when I have a problem with my car, even the smallest noise I feel like my car is going to break down and it drives me crazy till I fix it. I am very new to working on my car besides oil change, changing brakes. I decided maybe I didn't clean the EGR valve good enough the first time. I took the valve back off and this time let it soak with some carb cleaner in it. After I cleaned it, it almost looked brand new inside of the valve this time, and a lot more stuff came out. I can assure nothing else would come out if I took it off again. I made sure the valve pushed up and down easily and everything seemed fine. Before putting the valve back on I tried starting the car a couple times because I saw somewhere that this may help shoot some of the buildup out of the tubes. The car would not start.
I put the EGR valve back on and the car started fine. I did notice the second I started the car the rpms jumped up an extra 1000 than usual and the engine revd as if i was holding in the gas pedal for only a second or two. Finally the car was running for a couple minutes and now I don't think I have heard this noise before but from around the engine or intake manifold area I hear a sort of clicking noise. It is not very loud I cant hear it in the car with the windows up. I drove the car around a bit and noticed that when coming to a stop, the car has a rough idle for the first few seconds. The idle is fine if I just start the car and sit there or after I have stopped for about 5-10 seconds.
I am debating taking the EGR Valve off again and trying 1 more clean job or just sucking it up and buying a new one that I can't afford right now. Does anyone think buying a new valve will fix my new problems with the clicking and the rough idleing problem? I also see a used EGR Valve on Ebay for about $90 shipped or I can go to a junk yard but I don't know if used would be the way to go... If not what do you suggest??? I was planning on seafoaming my car next week but that was before I took the valve off for the second time and experienced my new problems. I don't think I want to seafoam until I get it fixed but do you think that would affect anything if I did it anyways before fixing my car?
Thanks!!
I hate when I have a problem with my car, even the smallest noise I feel like my car is going to break down and it drives me crazy till I fix it. I am very new to working on my car besides oil change, changing brakes. I decided maybe I didn't clean the EGR valve good enough the first time. I took the valve back off and this time let it soak with some carb cleaner in it. After I cleaned it, it almost looked brand new inside of the valve this time, and a lot more stuff came out. I can assure nothing else would come out if I took it off again. I made sure the valve pushed up and down easily and everything seemed fine. Before putting the valve back on I tried starting the car a couple times because I saw somewhere that this may help shoot some of the buildup out of the tubes. The car would not start.
I put the EGR valve back on and the car started fine. I did notice the second I started the car the rpms jumped up an extra 1000 than usual and the engine revd as if i was holding in the gas pedal for only a second or two. Finally the car was running for a couple minutes and now I don't think I have heard this noise before but from around the engine or intake manifold area I hear a sort of clicking noise. It is not very loud I cant hear it in the car with the windows up. I drove the car around a bit and noticed that when coming to a stop, the car has a rough idle for the first few seconds. The idle is fine if I just start the car and sit there or after I have stopped for about 5-10 seconds.
I am debating taking the EGR Valve off again and trying 1 more clean job or just sucking it up and buying a new one that I can't afford right now. Does anyone think buying a new valve will fix my new problems with the clicking and the rough idleing problem? I also see a used EGR Valve on Ebay for about $90 shipped or I can go to a junk yard but I don't know if used would be the way to go... If not what do you suggest??? I was planning on seafoaming my car next week but that was before I took the valve off for the second time and experienced my new problems. I don't think I want to seafoam until I get it fixed but do you think that would affect anything if I did it anyways before fixing my car?
Thanks!!
Ok, no responses but I took the EGR valve back off, recleaned it and flipped the gasket over. I made sure I tightened it really good and it seemed to fix most of the low idle issue when coming to a stop. It is still there just a very small amount but really hard to notice.
Now for the clicking noise. I used a funnel to listen for the noise and found where it is coming from. It is coming from a part labeled K5T48395 with a 1912 under that. I have no clue if it is the piece itself but when I unplug the wires the clicking stops and the second I plug it back in it clicks again.
Does anyone know much about this part because I would like to replace it but can't find anything on it. How do I remove this part because I can probably find one at a junk yard. Thanks
Now for the clicking noise. I used a funnel to listen for the noise and found where it is coming from. It is coming from a part labeled K5T48395 with a 1912 under that. I have no clue if it is the piece itself but when I unplug the wires the clicking stops and the second I plug it back in it clicks again.
Does anyone know much about this part because I would like to replace it but can't find anything on it. How do I remove this part because I can probably find one at a junk yard. Thanks
Found another picture from this forum (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ll-w-pics.html) that I hope the poster Alchemist doesnt mind.
If anyone knows what this black box (maybe a sensor) is please let me know. I would like to order a new one since it is making a clicking noise. Thanks!!
If anyone knows what this black box (maybe a sensor) is please let me know. I would like to order a new one since it is making a clicking noise. Thanks!!
it's a valve that is part of the evaporative emissions system. It is a solenoid, so clicking would be 'normal' I guess, there's nothing in the service manual about what noise it should be making during normal operation. Here are the tests in the FSM to test that valve:
alright guys, I have this issue now. I dunno what to do, I switched my EGR valve and I have really BAD hesitation when driving. I have NO issues when in park but ALL my issues come when driving, please help.
I have been trying to figure out what the adjustment's are for the 3 allen screws with lock nuts, located on the throttle body housing. I beleive 1 is for adjusting the butterfly valve for air intake while another is for throttle cable adjustment and the last and most elusive allen screw adjusts some kind of valve. I was just wondering if these 3 allen screws need to b adjusted in order to use aftermarket air intake to full potential. Or should these adjustments b left at stock settings? These little allens may b your concern but we need know more!
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I don't think you should be adjusting those little allens. What is most helpful is the actual mil code, or cel code that your car was throwing. Is it back up there now? If it's P0402, then what you did initially is right, cleaning the EGR valve.
So, idle you sit fine, but when you drive it shudders during cruise? Or is the idle thing fixed and now you just want the clicking fixed? If it's the clicking, The lancer sure makes a lot of noise, little ticks and clicks, but nothing that sounds "unhealthy".
Usually an EGR valve gets replaced, but that's not necessary most of the time. Cleaning usually does it.
So, idle you sit fine, but when you drive it shudders during cruise? Or is the idle thing fixed and now you just want the clicking fixed? If it's the clicking, The lancer sure makes a lot of noise, little ticks and clicks, but nothing that sounds "unhealthy".
Usually an EGR valve gets replaced, but that's not necessary most of the time. Cleaning usually does it.
Hesitation under WOT, or normal driving? Some more in-depth info on the symptoms would help. If it's just when in drive, try cleaning your TB out with TB cleaner. Also, replace the vacuum hose to your EGR to eliminate any possible leaks. Only other thing I can think of if these don't help is to check your plugs and wires, I try to replace these at 25k intervals. And I use injector cleaner at every fill-up. As a last-resort, if you have ecuflash to adjust your idle issues, you can adjust the BISS screw. I only recommend this as a last resort, as it's a PITA to fiddle with to get things to run right. Took me a few weeks of adjusting the BISS and using ecuflash to tweak my idle and step settings before I could solve my idle issues.
Although now I have a pulsating idle under decel, which it looks to be a fairly wide issue that some decompilers are trying to adjust with the ISCV settings....which hasn't happened yet, especially for stock lancer codes (which I don't think anyone's even working on).
I'm wondering if this might be the part that's messing up on the cars:
EGR Solenoid

MR127520
It's on ebay for $75. The EGR valve is $95 on ebay, as opposed to $143 from rockauto. Apparently the Montero uses the same EGR valve (96-06)...
EGR Solenoid

MR127520
It's on ebay for $75. The EGR valve is $95 on ebay, as opposed to $143 from rockauto. Apparently the Montero uses the same EGR valve (96-06)...
The TSB has the information to test that solenoid if you want to before you buy a new one. It will tell you, like, the vacuum reading you ought to have with power to it, and without power to it.
This is the one I'm buying
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html
I need to test my evap solenoid...similar thing, like 3 inches apart, our problems are.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html
I need to test my evap solenoid...similar thing, like 3 inches apart, our problems are.
I got this code, too, after playing with the BISS. I cleared it, and replaced the vacuum line and it hasn't popped up again yet. Have you been adjusting anything on the TB?






