Stupid question, can it safely be driven with the aft bolt out?

 

Which bolt exactly are you trying to install? Can you circle the part on a diagram or something? You mean the rear torque mount bolt that goes through the center of the roller?

 

You can drive it but it will clank like alot. Lift the motor up with a call and a piece of hard wood and lift up the motor and then lower it again until the holes line up. I spent a good 2 hours with this bolt on a friend's car. You just have to stay with it.

 

Dont you love it how 10 minutes turns into 2 hours?

 

Green Bandit: No. I hate it. :P

I was referring to the number 3 motor mount. You have a forward and an aft bolt. My friend and I were having a terrible time with the aft bolt. We discovered that it was caked with red Loktite. We got cotton swabs and Paint Thinner and attacked the hole. We were able to get it cleaned up a bit, but we found another problem. Whoever welded the retaining bolt welded it about 1 cm forward of the hole. This means that the head of the bolt basically had to be in an aft angle in order to get it to screw in properly. Since there is that annoying bolt on the bracket above it, you have to screw it in at a forward angle because the bolt is in the way.

My 2 friends basically got it threaded by sheer accident. Locked it down to spec and it drives better. I still get torque steer, but not nearly as bad.

slatermvp, the suggested technique does not work because motor mount 3 is not a weight bearing mount, but a torque bearing mount. You do not need to support the engine to change this motor mount. As such, lifting the engine would have no effect. We thought about this too, however.

I'm just glad that I was able to walk away with a drivable car. Now.......I wonder what motor mount I need to replace next. :P My shifts don't feel as sloppy, though. I'm thinking that replacing the one above and to the left of the valve cover should be replaced. It's the one that looks like a black cap.

Thoughts?

 

I have an 06 Lancer ES that I just bought. I took it in to get the tranny flushed and the mechanic said there was a "metallic substance" leaking from one of my motor mounts and that the motor mounts were shot.

I bought all new motor mounts except for the one on the transmission. Any clues as to which motor mount could be leaking? The one on the passenger side with the black round cap seems to be fine. Is that the only one with hydraulic fluid or dampening fluid? Thanks.

 

Motor mounts do not leak. Motor mounts are hardened pieces of rubber designed to absorb the shock and minimize vibrations transmitted to the chassis.

There is likely a broken transmission seal where the 2 portions of the transmission mate. It's probably leaking the metallic substance because whoever owned it didn't know how to shift and was shaving off the dog gears.

 

yeah that mechanic sounds like a retard, or he's trying to bend you over, cause every mechanic should knowmotor mounts don't leak, they are simply rubber bushings in a steel frame, and if they can't tell what the mysterious liquid is, i wouldn't be letting them touch my car...it's either engine oil, gear oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid, water, or fuel...pretty simple to tell all of these apart, except brake fluid and power steering fluid can sometimes be similar in appearance.

the metallic part is just absurd, if shredded metal from inside the transmission is finding its way out, your transmission case is either already cracked, or about to explode...metal shavings are normal, that's why there's a magnet in there to collect them all...only insane amounts of torque will actually strip gears...

 

Well it's an automatic so knowing how to shift probably isn't a part of it. The rear main is leaking a few drops in my driveway but nothing to worry about. I changed all of the motor mounts (they were broke) except the one on the tranny, it seemed fine. The strange thing is now I get alot more vibration when stopped in drive and at idle than i did before Not sure what that's about.

 

I got brand new oem mounts the 2 mounts and the 2 torque mounts for my oz lancer 2.0 and the mounts feel like that are not falling in place im able to shake the motor when the car is off with my hands any help?????

 

only way that could happen is if they weren't tightened correctly. Did you do all 4 at the same time? I noticed when I did all of my mounts that the tranny mount (the one on the drivers side under the battery tray) didn't want to sit down straight on the four studs right away, therefore not allowing it to seat properly until I moved the motor around a bunch. My best advice is to check and see if anything came loose or isn't lined up properly. I had the best luck doing the 2 roll stoppers and the tranny mount at the same time then changing the motor mount once the other 3 were fully installed. Good luck sir, this can be quite the ***** so I feel for ya

 

no I did the 2 roll stoppers first then week later I did the passanger and tranny mount. so I should leave the passanger side mount for last and do the tranny and the 2 roll stoppers first? yea it is a real ##### LOL... thx for the reply

 

When you did the tranny mount did you remove or at least loosen the rear roll stop and center member/front roll stop?

 

yes sir I did before and im doing it right know again just to make sure...I got the front and rear roll stop out and took the tranny mount out and put it back in... don't think the passenger side mount would affect anything because its hydraulic but ima take it out and put it back in also.. anything else you suggest doing??

 

Hopefully all goes well this time! Should all go well so long as all the mounts seat down properly. I assume you've already made decent progress? If you can still move the motor when all is bolted up (and torqued once full motor weight is applied) then you may want to try filling them with 3M Windo-Weld 8609. Stuff is awesome and it'll make your broken mounts stiffer than OEM, just not so pretty if you suck at art like myself