it matched up the same. you are correct, the center sleeve on the mount would not line up with the mounting holes on the engine bracket. the motor does not move when removing this so there is no movement involved, plus, if I lifted the motor up, it would have been even further off. if anything, the motor needed to come down, which it would not either.

 

ok, I get what you're saying now. normally I would take the transmission crossmember off, install the new mount on it, then align the mount, slide the bolt through, then install the crossmember mounting bolts...have you tried rolling the engine forward? it's possible the rear mount is completely shot, causing the alignment issue up front. if you're certain you have the correct part for the front (different lancer models have different front mounts), then I would address the rear mount prior to shimming anything.

also I would make sure the side mounts are in good shape, and leave the front mount off while replacing the rear, it's a bit of a pain, so having as much freedom of movement as possible will be beneficial...for the rear mount, my favorite tool is a swivel head gear wrench for the bolt under the front stabilizer/anti-roll bar. I've also used a 24" 3/8 extension and a U-joint to reach the other 3 from the top, but when I did that I had the intake manifold off, not sure if that method could be employed with the engine intact.

 

Thanx for your help!!!

I thought about doing what you said for the front roller mount, but the angle was so far off that even if I got the bolts started for the crossmember, I was concerned that all the downward pressure on the rubber part of the mount would make it fail prematurely. it was crooked coming out even with the sleeve completely separated from the rubber on the old mount. I am really reluctant to try the rear roller with the car just up on ramps as far as being able to see and work. I definitely do not want to remove the intake if I don't have to. I think I am going to try first the front mount (passenger side, front of engine) and then the rear tranny mount (driver side under the intake tube and see if either are broke and if that helps the shake. it shakes the most in drive with the a/c on. otherwise, not so bad. she puts it in neutral at lights due to the shake when she is running the a/c. thx again!!!!!!!!

 

the rear roll stopper mount generally takes most of the beating, the front being second...I've put up to 18psi of boost through my 2.4L, and over a period of years, my side mounts (front and rear as you put it) were fine, though I recently filled them all with poly urethane, and now the whole car vibrates like crazy, so I can't even tell the difference anymore...however if sitting at idle is transferring violent or abnormal vibration into the cabin, then any one of the mounts could be bad. good luck with the others...

I also forgot to mention, for the rear roll stopper, I also found it easier to remove the bracket from the transmission as well to give the mount more wiggle room.

if you can't get a lift and you're not comfortable under a car on ramps or jack stands, then, that one mount shouldn't take a mechanic too long to do, make an appointment and bring your own parts. an hour tops, I would say, unless they shear bolts.

 

Thanx!! not that I am uncomfortable under the ramps, just hard to see and work from there on the rear roller. I tried to see it when I had it up for the front roller and could not even see it. thanx again for all your input!!!

 

it's on the rear front edge of the bell housing, so right where the engine block meets the transmission...