04 Lancer - AC Intermittent / No AC
Idk man I am out of ideas. Did you ever swap the relay? A bad relay can work fine then when too much heat gets to it (aka higher load on engine more heat in engine bay) it can stop working.Common issue on older integras and some accords the ignition relay will go bad and work sometimes then on hot days wont work.
But Please get a diagram or take a picture of this said "Relay".
Can be your pressure switch located on the right side behind the passenger headlight . Goes inline with the ac line with a 2 wire connector . Try bypassing it by using a paper clip taped up and see if it still goes warm . Ive noticed that will cause that kind of uses I'm on my third one with 200k on the car .
Can be your pressure switch located on the right side behind the passenger headlight . Goes inline with the ac line with a 2 wire connector . Try bypassing it by using a paper clip taped up and see if it still goes warm . Ive noticed that will cause that kind of uses I'm on my third one with 200k on the car .
Hey thanks for the suggestion. Is this the red colored switch you refer to thats connected to the line where theirs a square block with a clear cover over it so you can see the fluid flowing thru it ? I tried wiggling and moving it around to see if it made a difference, didn't really get a response.
Where did you purchase the replacement switch, part number?
Yea thats it , you cant really wiggle it to fix it but just bypass it before by using a paper clip(Or wire to connect the two ) first because if you remove it it will leak out all the freon .
Its a dealer item i think its 35ish
Its a dealer item i think its 35ish
Also, No Part Number just incase ?
I have RyanCB's Lancer at my house now working on his A/C. bought some a/c tools so as soon as those arrive tomorrow I am going to dive into his. His clutch works fine just not cold at all :-(. Definately has a leak somewhere since he just had it serviced maybe 1000 miles ago. It fixed the problem breifly then went warm again.
I have RyanCB's Lancer at my house now working on his A/C. bought some a/c tools so as soon as those arrive tomorrow I am going to dive into his. His clutch works fine just not cold at all :-(. Definately has a leak somewhere since he just had it serviced maybe 1000 miles ago. It fixed the problem breifly then went warm again.
Well let me know how that goes..
Mine blew nice and cold today. I don't think theirs a leak in mine because when it blows properly, it blows ice cold! I would think if mine were leaking it would degrade obviously.
). If the a/c works just fine during that week then I would say there is a good chance that its your pressure switch as this means the compressor is fine as well as freon level.
Last edited by 03lances; Aug 27, 2012 at 10:06 PM.
So just unplug the pressure switch and make both pins connect to each other .
I realize it has been a while on this. My '04 started this intermittent cooling relatively recently. It seems as long as I cruise at freeway speeds it's pretty ok. Get in traffic and it takes a long time before the compressor will cycle back on. It's not the dual pressure switch, pretty sure not a relay or clutch. It's not charge. I am leaning to the refrigerant temperature switch on the L side of the compressor facing front. It is of course not easy to get to. It completes the circuit from the relay to the clutch. Anyone had issues or experience with this? I think pulling the radiator would allow access to it. Since there is an o-ring and a snap ring, I am concerned it may access the refrigerant circuit. The book does not indicate so. It operates in the 150C-120C range. Let me know. Thanks
I gave up my quest for A/C after changing that temperature switch...I had to remve the compressor entirely because even with the snap ring out, it was seized in there, tried lubing it, but the o-ring was just hardened and stuck in there...I tried twisting and pulling it out, with all sorts of things, until finally I drilled a pilot hole through it and drove a big screw into it, and then with my air hammer, with the fork bit, on the back of the screw head, eventually punched it out...
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