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04 Lancer - AC Intermittent / No AC

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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 03lances
Idk man I am out of ideas. Did you ever swap the relay? A bad relay can work fine then when too much heat gets to it (aka higher load on engine more heat in engine bay) it can stop working.Common issue on older integras and some accords the ignition relay will go bad and work sometimes then on hot days wont work.
I did take a wander and switched what appeared to be the relay with another relay in the box, still no difference. It can be nice and cool outside and still blow hot. The worst is the rainy days, even though its cool its muggy.

But Please get a diagram or take a picture of this said "Relay".
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #17  
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Can be your pressure switch located on the right side behind the passenger headlight . Goes inline with the ac line with a 2 wire connector . Try bypassing it by using a paper clip taped up and see if it still goes warm . Ive noticed that will cause that kind of uses I'm on my third one with 200k on the car .
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 08:21 PM
  #18  
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From: Orlando, Fl
Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
Can be your pressure switch located on the right side behind the passenger headlight . Goes inline with the ac line with a 2 wire connector . Try bypassing it by using a paper clip taped up and see if it still goes warm . Ive noticed that will cause that kind of uses I'm on my third one with 200k on the car .

Hey thanks for the suggestion. Is this the red colored switch you refer to thats connected to the line where theirs a square block with a clear cover over it so you can see the fluid flowing thru it ? I tried wiggling and moving it around to see if it made a difference, didn't really get a response.

Where did you purchase the replacement switch, part number?
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 08:24 PM
  #19  
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Yea thats it , you cant really wiggle it to fix it but just bypass it before by using a paper clip(Or wire to connect the two ) first because if you remove it it will leak out all the freon .

Its a dealer item i think its 35ish
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Old Aug 23, 2012 | 08:52 PM
  #20  
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From: Orlando, Fl
Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
Yea thats it , you cant really wiggle it to fix it but just bypass it before by using a paper clip(Or wire to connect the two ) first because if you remove it it will leak out all the freon .

Its a dealer item i think its 35ish
So are you basically saying to remove the red plug from the switch itself and then on the switch jump it from each prong or jump the plug itself with a paper clip or wire? Just want to clarify.

Also, No Part Number just incase ?
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #21  
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Well ? Could you reply 02-Lancer-Es , please?
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 07:28 PM
  #22  
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I have RyanCB's Lancer at my house now working on his A/C. bought some a/c tools so as soon as those arrive tomorrow I am going to dive into his. His clutch works fine just not cold at all :-(. Definately has a leak somewhere since he just had it serviced maybe 1000 miles ago. It fixed the problem breifly then went warm again.
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 07:34 PM
  #23  
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From: Orlando, Fl
Originally Posted by 03lances
I have RyanCB's Lancer at my house now working on his A/C. bought some a/c tools so as soon as those arrive tomorrow I am going to dive into his. His clutch works fine just not cold at all :-(. Definately has a leak somewhere since he just had it serviced maybe 1000 miles ago. It fixed the problem breifly then went warm again.

Well let me know how that goes..

Mine blew nice and cold today. I don't think theirs a leak in mine because when it blows properly, it blows ice cold! I would think if mine were leaking it would degrade obviously.
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #24  
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From: West Coast WA
Originally Posted by Photool
Well let me know how that goes..

Mine blew nice and cold today. I don't think theirs a leak in mine because when it blows properly, it blows ice cold! I would think if mine were leaking it would degrade obviously.
So just to confirm, when your clutch is operating its always cold correct? I have something you can try. Run a wire straight from the battery to the signal wire for the compressor, then connect a switch inbetween ran into the cabin (it only uses a small amount of voltage so I would say a relay is not required but of course that is your call.) it really should not take more than a few minutes to do. Then for maybe a week or so flick that switch when you need a/c (making sure the temp knob is on cold of course ). If the a/c works just fine during that week then I would say there is a good chance that its your pressure switch as this means the compressor is fine as well as freon level.

Last edited by 03lances; Aug 27, 2012 at 10:06 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2012 | 10:42 PM
  #25  
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From: San Antonio
Originally Posted by Photool
So are you basically saying to remove the red plug from the switch itself and then on the switch jump it from each prong or jump the plug itself with a paper clip or wire? Just want to clarify.

Also, No Part Number just incase ?
Yes that is correct there is no need to run a wire to the compressor .
So just unplug the pressure switch and make both pins connect to each other .
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #26  
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I realize it has been a while on this. My '04 started this intermittent cooling relatively recently. It seems as long as I cruise at freeway speeds it's pretty ok. Get in traffic and it takes a long time before the compressor will cycle back on. It's not the dual pressure switch, pretty sure not a relay or clutch. It's not charge. I am leaning to the refrigerant temperature switch on the L side of the compressor facing front. It is of course not easy to get to. It completes the circuit from the relay to the clutch. Anyone had issues or experience with this? I think pulling the radiator would allow access to it. Since there is an o-ring and a snap ring, I am concerned it may access the refrigerant circuit. The book does not indicate so. It operates in the 150C-120C range. Let me know. Thanks
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 10:00 PM
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I gave up my quest for A/C after changing that temperature switch...I had to remve the compressor entirely because even with the snap ring out, it was seized in there, tried lubing it, but the o-ring was just hardened and stuck in there...I tried twisting and pulling it out, with all sorts of things, until finally I drilled a pilot hole through it and drove a big screw into it, and then with my air hammer, with the fork bit, on the back of the screw head, eventually punched it out...
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