09 lancer ES 2.0 5speed thats been flawless for past 146,000 miles, everything is original on engine except serp belt and idler that were replaced by recall around 120k (originals prior)... like I said flawless.

This morning I get in car to start it and it sounds like marbles rolling around in engine.
Took another car to work and checked oil when I got home (fine). Restarted and had rough idle bad but no more marbles then check engine light came on. Scanned (torque) and had a hard code P0016 and a pending code about multiple missfire. Did not clear codes and restarted, was no longer missing and sounded normal so drove around a few miles. Noticed idle was high (1500) and turned around . At home turned off and immediately tried to restart several times unsuccessfully, started when I gave it some throttle.

Started googling code and kept pointing to chain so decided to check timing.
Appeared to me that intake was off a tooth, the marks didnt line up and there was a paint marker slash drawn on intake cam gear and timing chain link that was off one tooth. In hind sight I really wish I took a pic but I wanted to spin it around a few more times to make certain. Thats when I think it got FUBAR. While spinning it around I think one of the cams jumped another tooth and now theres piston/valve contact. I can no longer spin motor, although I'm afraid to put some muscle into it. I can spin it backwards some and then forward but it stops in each direction.

Would you assume it's most likely a worn/jumped chain
Is it possible to bend valves slowly spinning motor by hand with a small 3/8ths ratchet
Hoping to just replace chain, tensioner ect... thoughts/options
links to good threads or write ups are greatly appreciated, this is my daily driver and needed

 

All I can find is info about the evo's, are the motors the same in regards the timing chain and related systems?

Found this, which is why I continued pinning it around...
He says "most everyone" and that makes me think it's not mitsubishi or 4b11 specific
Also, only recall seeing one orange link

 

 

From what you describe - yes, the timing jumped.

 

Yea, parts ordered and starting to take it apart now...
I'm afraid to move anything, as you can see in the pic the chain is riding around the one sprocket
Next question is can I remove the cams to spin crank into alignment and bolt cams back in aligned?

 

Yes, once the chain is removed.


I would replace the tensioner assembly as well.


There is a 'improved chain' part number - make sure you get that one.
(I just don't know the part numbers - search the EVO X bubbas forum, it will have a pix of them side-by-side for comparison).


Good luck!

 

I have some recent experience in regards to the timing chain as well so I hope you don't mind if I add to this thread with some info and my experiences around the Lancer GTS timing chain.

I have a 2010 Lancer GTS which recently on a road trip started presenting a sharp tapping or "rattle" type noise at startup and on light throttle application. When listening with the engine bay open the rattle sound could be located near the passenger side of the engine block (this is where the timing chain is located).

I brought it in to my dealership and the lead mechanic immediately thought it to be a timing chain issue, progressed to remove the cover and inspect it confirmed. Essentially the slack in the chain caused it to whack against the top of the engine cover under the light throttle application.

Thankfully in Canada Mitsubishi warranties powertrain to 10 year or 160,000 KM, I was just over 157,000 KM when this issue started occurring. Essentially it had likely been progressing for some time but only got to the point where a noise was being made now. It was not at the point where it affected any aspect of driving (misfires, engine knock, etc.) or setting a CEL code so it may be undetected in most cars.

In a further meeting with the mechanic, he indicated that Mitsubishi did change the timing chains on "newer" versions of the engine and the linkage style was different, likely indicating a swap to a stronger chain. Whether this relates to the analogous chain change that occurred with RAs/Evos I'm not sure, but those who are Googling around this issue may like to know this.

I would suggest anyone nearing the end of their powertrain warranty to get the chain checked, even without the symptoms I had, as if you were in the 08-10 model year GTS, this may be an issue for you. I've been religious about oil changes with synthetic Mobil 1 (0w20 is recommended for Canada by Mitsubishi) since I purchased the car back in March 2010 and this still happened on my car.

 

More info the better, nice you got it done under warranty.
Do you ever recall seeing an indicator light in dash that said "check" inside a triangle?
I never seen one but while googling kept coming across that as a warning for chain replacement

Suprise, parts came today! Chain was same style as old but I got almost 150,000mi from it so using it.
Heres a pic of old parts and new along with part #'s. Bought as a kit...



The old guides showed almost no wear, I was amazed.
Here's chain stretch...



Will copy/paste the directions I used and some short cuts I took when it's all back together

 

I had no other indicators (no lights on the dash or anything) other than the sharp rattle noise that occurred with light throttle. Apparently this was caused by the slack in the chain whacking the inside of the engine cover.

Obviously it had been progressing for some time, but had only got bad enough to cause the noise recently, hence my suggestion to anyone else in similar situation to get the chain checked.

I don't think non-Ralliarts or Evos have the sensor that detects timing issues that causes the warning light. The 4B11/4B12 and their variants all use the same timing chain (only difference with 4B12 is the cylinder bore/volume).

I can't imagine the issues affecting the RA/Evo earlier on due to the performance levels on those engines wouldn't eventually show their heads on regular Lancers over time. Definitely needs to be more awareness as folks with the early model years (08-10) will likely be encountering this and shouldn't have to go out of pocket.

Some more info from RRM:
http://roadraceengineering.com/blog/...-so-much-good/

This thread (at another forum!) show's the new part number and the linkage differences with the chain updated in 2011: http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59118

 

Back up and running

 

Here's the write-up I followed that was helpful, it's from another forum but hopefully linking it isnt a party foul.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=145833

Here's some things I did differently

I removed the power steering reservoir instead of pump, used as opportunity to change original fluid.
Left the serp belt tensioner in, just removed the idler from it (reverse thread) you can rotate tensioner to get to cover bolt.
Left the alternator alone, not sure why they moved it.
I removed cam shafts before attempting crank pully bolt due to fear of contact from rotation. (blipped starter)

Not really a bad job, did it after work for a few hours over two days