2011 Lancer GT - Cranks/turns but no start
Could be the relay for the throttle body and might explain why it goes in limp mode? Those parts are pretty cheap and easy to replace so might be worth a shot.. After doing some online searching I think the OEM part number is 8627A030
Update- Have replaced throttle body relay but no change. Cleaned the MAF but no change. Car starts and idles at 1200 rpm and bounces. Feels like its going to stall then bounces up then down again.
Stays the same. Going to replace it now as I just got p0102 and p0113 which are for the MAF sensor lol. $340 CAD at local parts store or $30 on eBay and wait 4-5 days hmmm lucky I am social distancing and don't need to go anywhere
I'd say it could be your air flow meter so, if memory serves me right if it is ok the engine should start to run rough when you up plug it and if no charge with current fault then it's the reason. They can't be cleaned either, we'll most of them can't anyway. If you knew someone with the same car be best to swap it out first I guess
ASC system service required means almost anything
Having said that
When I have been playing Round with throttle body conversion I got it regularly till I cracked it
If you swap the sensor you have and it doesn't fix it, I would swap the TB out
Make sure to disconnect the negative off the battery for about half hour with the headlights switched on.
This will drain any residual current from the car.
Turn lights off
Reconnect negative lead to battery.
Got anyone close by with a car the same you can swap a TB off. Try it and see how you go
Having said that
When I have been playing Round with throttle body conversion I got it regularly till I cracked it
If you swap the sensor you have and it doesn't fix it, I would swap the TB out
Make sure to disconnect the negative off the battery for about half hour with the headlights switched on.
This will drain any residual current from the car.
Turn lights off
Reconnect negative lead to battery.
Got anyone close by with a car the same you can swap a TB off. Try it and see how you go
Finally got my new MAF and installed it and no fix. On to the throttle body I guess. Glad I waited for the $30 part and didn't spend the $340 for the unit here in town. Annoyed its going to be more time....catch 22 lol
Edit to add: Can hear a difference with the engine running now when I plug in or disconnect the new MAF so its certainly helped a bit I believe, although the bouncing rpm is still present and it runs very rich. Have gone through the wiring again to see if there are any obvious defects but all seems well. Codes are still 657, 113, 102.
Edit to add: Can hear a difference with the engine running now when I plug in or disconnect the new MAF so its certainly helped a bit I believe, although the bouncing rpm is still present and it runs very rich. Have gone through the wiring again to see if there are any obvious defects but all seems well. Codes are still 657, 113, 102.
Last edited by Quinny; Apr 21, 2020 at 02:35 PM.
Caved and took it to a local shop for diagnostics. They said everything works it should when they test each individual system and that it is an ECU problem and they can't flash it as it is a dealer item. My closest dealer is about 160km away so my next question is.......Can you do any reset or flash from home without going to the dealer? Will start looking through the forum for old threads.
Caved and took it to a local shop for diagnostics. They said everything works it should when they test each individual system and that it is an ECU problem and they can't flash it as it is a dealer item. My closest dealer is about 160km away so my next question is.......Can you do any reset or flash from home without going to the dealer? Will start looking through the forum for old threads.
Have a look at this thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ng-thread.html
You can hook up Evoscan using a Tactrix Openport 2 cable (or a cheap chinese knockoff) to read the values the ECU is receiving
Ended up being a wire popped out of the back of the fuse panel. Had it towed to the Mitsubishi dealership (1.5 hours away) and their tech had it found in under an hour. Up and running fine again now. 
Thanks for all the input and now I will go look up coilovers and rim sizes

Thanks for all the input and now I will go look up coilovers and rim sizes
I'm glad the issue was found and it was a reasonable simple fix.
However this now opens another can of worms.
What fuse popped as they don't pop for no reason?
They usually pop as there is a short somewhere.
So is there a part of the wiring harness that has rubbed thru to the chassis of the car somewhere?
However this now opens another can of worms.
What fuse popped as they don't pop for no reason?
They usually pop as there is a short somewhere.
So is there a part of the wiring harness that has rubbed thru to the chassis of the car somewhere?
Hi Bumblebee, maybe I wasn't clear enough, a wire had come loose from the underside of the fuse panel in the engine bay. A fuse had not popped or blown. We looked at all the wiring and the rest of the wiring into the fuse panel and there were no defects. After he put it back in it is tight and is not loose so not sure how it managed to get free.
Ended up being a wire popped out of the back of the fuse panel. Had it towed to the Mitsubishi dealership (1.5 hours away) and their tech had it found in under an hour. Up and running fine again now. 
Thanks for all the input and now I will go look up coilovers and rim sizes

Thanks for all the input and now I will go look up coilovers and rim sizes
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