lancerguy0208

I just changed my belts on my 2002 O.Z. about 1000 miles ago. The car has 96,000 miles on it.

When I start the car, the belts go completely insane for about 10-15 seconds, then stop and sound normal. When this first happened it scared the **** out of me, and I thought it was a one time thing. It happens a couple of times a week now, and I dont know what is causing it to make this horrible loud sound for a few seconds, and then it just stops.

When I changed the belts, I found out the previous owner had a belt on it for a 2008 model lancer. I dont know if this warped the pulley or something, but like I said, it just stops after a few seconds. It is incredibly annoying, and I cringe every time I start the car. I really need this to go away. HELP PLEASE!!!

02LancerRally

So i checked my cv axle on the pass side it's good replaced my tie rod ends but i'm still getting a bad vibe noise at low speeds it gets worse at higher speeds i checked m/t and i had no fluid in there i put fluid back in but the noise is still there ??? do you think that its gone ??? and if so any one have one that i can buy

02LancerRally

Make sure there not to tight i know when i did my timing and i put my belts back on i got a squeal but check your pulley make sure its not out of round check the bolts that tighten the pulley if its that type

eusgen

iTrader: (5)

Passenger front is making a noise that goes with the rate of speed. One noise is a sort of grinding and another is a bird chirping sound that only happens when the throttle is pushed down. As soon as I let off throttle bird noise stops but the grinding continues irregardless. I have heard both noises at the same time and think they are different problems altogether.

08LancerGTS_62

for the front making the noise that goes with the speed, try checking your wheel well because maybe that plastic cover got unhinged and is rubbing on your tire, mine had a similar sound and i checked it out and it was that issue.

sant

Im having A prb blowing catalytic converters after installing header and cat back ??? No check engine light , car runs great .. Im assuming Its running to rich ???

indyozrally

I just bought a 05 oz rally 2 weeks ago and it has a lifter tick. I was told all I had to do was adjust them..but mine are self adjusting. How do I get rid of the tick..I took the valve cover off and everything seemed to be working normally minus the tick from the lmas. Does anyone have a guide or video to get rid or rplace those? My mechanic was telling me it night need to go to machine shop and have the parts pressed in or something..does anyone have any information relating how to fix this yourself.thanks

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Nothing is pressed in you have to bleed the lifters, unless one is collapsed in which case replacement is needed. Its a fairly simple process but I dont have time to explain it in sufficient detail at the moment. Basically you pull them out (find senate's links for download of the FSM for procedure there) You need 3 bowls of clean deisel and a paper clip or similiar size allen key to push in the little ball that seals the lifter. Use the first bowl and submerge the lifter compressing it several times, you will have lots of black oil coming out. Once you are satisfied its all out use the second one to "rinse" it out making sure you squeeze all the fuel out of it after its rinsed so its empty (hold it upside down over the bowl and compress it several times to empty it). The 3rd bowl is stricly for refilling. you want to hold the lifter straight up fully submerged in the deisel. compress the lifter over and over slowly until no more air bubbles come out of the lifter. Then while KEEPING THE LIFTER STRAIGHT UP do not tilt it, slip it back into its respective place in the rocker arm. This makes sure the bleeder is full of diesel to act as the priming of the lifter. If you tilt it air can get in there and you will be back to a ticking lifter.

As I said cant go into alot of detail here this just gives you general idea. Use the FSM to get the procedure to pull the lifters out and use youtube to find a video showing the bleeding procedure.

I have pulled these out several times it a piece of cake.

indyozrally

Thanks. So that little ball bearing thing can be pushed in with a paper clip or whatever once its off? Its like right on the joint up top..is the ticking noise caused by air inside the lifters? And I'm assuming that's what happens when you let your car get low on oil or don't change oil soon enough? Sorry I just want to understand exactly what is going on and how to prevent this from happening cause it seems to be a common issue..but thanks again dude your a life saver I'm gonna try doing that here soon.

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Likely not air but clogged with sludge. It happens. Once you pull the rocker arms off you will likely have to use a magnet to pull some of the lifters out of the arms. I recommend as you pull them out set them down in order so you get the correct lifter back in the right spot. You will notice a hole in the top of the lifter, this is where it gets filled with oil from the rocker arm. The ball is down in that hold about halfway down. Use your paper clip or whatever and stick it down the hole and feel around, you will know when you hit the ball as the paper clip will drop into a spot. then just push and you will be able to compress the lifter.

indyozrally

My friend doesn't think that's going to work..and why can't I use oil to refill lifters..how would I know if its collapsed..I just don't wanna pay someone to bleed the lifters and its not the cause..I will post a video of the noise here soon

03lances

iTrader: (14)

Well im not there physically to see and hear it nor do I know your friend level of knowledge here so I cant speculate, but if the noise is in the head then you have a lifter problem and my procedure will work. Not only am I a mechanic but I am especially adept to this engine since I own the same car. I have rebuilt heads several times on these cars, tore down engines and have a very good understanding of this engine.

Best way to check for a collapsed lifter is to pull them out and try to compress them without pushing in the little ball inside after you have cleaned and bled them. If so then it is toast. You could simply pull off the valve cover and try to push hard on top of all the rocker arms. They should not be able to push in at all. However this is not in any way a comprehensive test and you would still need to pull them out anyways to be sure.

As far as using oil to refill. Oil is too thick to use for manual refill and you would likely not get all the air out of the lifter and have the same problem or likely worse when you put them back in. The amount of diesel in the lifter is negliable compared to the capacity of your oil pan it has absolutely no effect on oil pressure or the viscosity.

indyozrally

What's the torque specs for the rocker bar thing the bar that the lifters slip on and. How much torque do we put on the bolts holding on the bar

03lances

iTrader: (14)

You're going to want to download the FSM from senate just search the forums for it. Its mitsubishi's factory service manual not the crappy chiltons or haynes it will have all the info you need and its a free download.

FiReTRuCKoZ

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed a clicking noise when I turn the wheel either way, I originally thought it was the strut cap bearing, but it doesn't sound like its coming from there at all...however I know one of them is bad. Any ideas? I'm going to change the bearing but I honestly don't think thats where its coming from at all...