Given it's a sim, it's when I over shoot a turn, counter-steering, and trying to downshift all at the same time to save it. So if i actually drove it correctly, it probably wouldn't be an issue

 

Gotcha. I drive sims like a regular car. To a fault as I forget to exploit game physics. But I could see this being an issue in certain situations, like drifting with paddles only.
But in a real car, I need paddles to stay with the wheel so I can shift smoothly.

 

Some photos from my last event:

 

The pictures I'm most stoked about

 

Lime Rock Park - Last year, my first year driving Lime Rock, I set a goal to hit a sub 60 sec lap with stock 2020 power, no aero and 200tw tires. I accomplished that with a 59.72 towards the end of the season.

This year I came back with Verus Engineering aero, added power (nothing crazy, low boost, around 440whp or so) and some spring rate tweaks for the aero and so far I have been able to get my lap times consistent in the 58's and I hit my new PB of 57.96 this last Friday. This session was 0:58.92, 0:59.97, 058.39 and on the fourth lap, this 57.96. Even at low boost, I am up 10mph in the straight compared to last year.

I'm still getting used to trusting the aero but this car is just a weapon now. I'm still mentally blocked from not using my brakes in the downhill section so I am giving up 8+mph there. I need to continue to dial in the chassis with the new changes to help dial out some understeer. Nobody has touched this car except for me, all installs, tweaks and changes are by my hands, even down to the alignments. I think my goal for this year will be mid/low 56's. Each second under 60 is a battle at this short track!

 

The supra in it's current form, GT4 replica hood vent coming soon... Also these are super expensive wheels at $640 shipped for all four 18x10.5 hahah.

 

Black wheels are the worst. They all look like the same ink blobs. what are they?

 

Okay Mr. Mustard and Gold 😎

They are TSW Imatra

 

I placed an order for a ZL1 1lE back in April for MSRP. A couple of months of working with the dealer, and learning about the car / GM on the forums and I cancelled that order a few days ago.

Looks like I'll be joining you all in the Supra club. Gonna start talking to dealers in the next few days. Any advice? Should I try and get a 45th anniversary? I'm kinda digging the orange.

 

What’s your goal with the car?

 

Fun street / HPDE.

My Evo 8 entered extended hibernation. I'm looking for something to replace / upgrade that experience ( Ohlins, ralliart bushings, ~430whp, etc) as well as be a platform for me to start learning how to drive fast. I also want to learn the skills involved with wrenching / setting up a car for track vs. street.

 

For ECU tuning, 2020 and any 2021 with an ECU before 06/20/2020 (NOT build date) will be the cheapest route to tuning. post 06/20/2020 will cost you thousands for an unlock to be able to tune it.

If you don't care about tuning the ECU or the extra money to tune the ECU doesn't matter, then I would look at 2021+ as 21+ has the updated lower compression engine with the six port exhaust manifold/turbo with about 40whp more stock. If you want a manual transmission, 2023 (and now 2024 when they come out) is your only option. 2021 and 2022 had some updated suspension tuning. 2023 has updated suspension tuning, updated steering rack programming and updated rear diff programming.

 

I've got a third pedal size hole in my life right now. It's been a really long time since I've driven a Front engine rear wheel drive car, so I don't have any immediate plans for increasing power. When the time comes I'm fully open to a stand alone. Thanks for the tips, mostly what I'm going to focus on is suspension / weight reduction / aero / safety. Braking* and Power will come after driver mod this time around I think.

If anyone has any recommendations for resources with an aim towards my goals I'd be grateful.

*obviously track pads and fluids, I just mean major upgrades.

 

Then 2023 Manual or 2024 when they come out. Keep in mind people are waiting forever to get manuals, unless you get lucky.

For a track/street hybrid, I still recommend MCS coilovers. I've used sooo many coilovers in my life and the MCS *BY FAR* ride the best and perform incredible on track, even with high spring rates. They soak up bumps so well and it's really hard to upset the car on track.

The oem brakes work really well with upgraded pads and fluid. I have been using Project Mu Club Racers and they work great on track and don't sound like a dump truck on the street.

Best ROI for weight savings is the battery and seat. Battery saves about 40lbs. Seat saves about 15lbs.

Verus makes good cost/performance ratio aero. I currently run their spoiler, front splitter and canards.

Honestly, if you just copy my build it will be a weapon that doesn't suck to drive on the street. It's the best street mannered track car I have ever owned. The Sparco seat gets a little uncomfortable with over 2.5hr drives but it's also a cheaper seat and I'm almost 50yrs old.

 

I also want to throw in that my Ohlins drive nice on the street if you want to save a few bucks over the MCS and still have a decent setup.

And also, if you decide to go the aero route, be ready for a car that scrapes over everything!