2003 Mitsubishi Evolution 8 Rolling Chassis
For Sale2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution
-
Price
$6,500• OBO
- Location Palm Coast, FL, 32164, USA
- Condition Used
- VIN JA3AH86F13U123762
- Mileage 96,000
- Exterior Color White
Description:
Sale Cancelled, Change of plans and I plan to keep it.
2003 Mitsubishi Evolution 8
Rolling Chassis
Chassis Mileage 96k
Price: 6,500 picked up
Clean title in hand
Interior in tact with seats , carpet, dash, steering (shifter and cables not available)
Location: Palm Coast, FL
This was a project car , in which I removed all combustion engine related parts to convert to electric. Long story short recent life events, I cannot complete this project now and removed the electric motors to sell the Evo and Tesla parts separately .
The chassis itself has 96k miles. But the tachometer is of another Evo and has 54,900 miles. I sold the original tach so just keep in mind if you power it up it will show 54,900 miles but the car chassis is really 96k .
The body is in good condition . No signs of prior accidents that I can tell . No rust other than on the rotors standing in the rain . Previous owner painted the front bumper and rear . I was told there were a lot of rock chips he wanted clean up. But the rest of the car is original paint fenders , doors, hood Etc.. But most importantly when I took it apart I did not see any signs of accidents photos in the build thread I had .
Here is a link to the build if you want to see a lot of images . Just remember you will not be receiving the electric car conversion Tesla motors .
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...olution-e.html
The power steering rack is converted to manual. Same steering ratio just removed the internal restrictions to allow it to steer a lot easier . It still has ABS . I converted it to non booster master cylinder . But I have the original master cylinder and brake booster included with it if you want to convert back . The ecu harness is hacked up so you will need a new ecu harness.
It does have Diamond Race Cars front tubular k member but missing/removed the transmission rear mount arm . Rear subframe is of the electric motor I’m leaving on there . You will need to source the Evo rear subframe your self as I don’t have it.
Trunk spare tire well has been cut out. See pics in build thread for details .
Let me know if you have any questions .
If someone had a full evo and wanted to swap drivetrain/rear subframe, etc. would there be anything extra they would need to do other than patch that trunk floor?
Structurally , there are not any other changes/modifications . You will need a rear subframe . And converting back to oem is basically bolting back on / swapping on the parts. Just keep in mind the front subframe is a tubular subframe . The rear motor mount on the subframe was removed . I might still have it and I will need to double check .
This would probably be a good option for someone looking for non snow driven rust free chassis to swap in parts off another Evo or build a car . Only down side is the spare trunk well cutout in the trunk .
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Exterior body condition: Overall exterior is in good condition. There are not any scratches on the paint . On the hood there are a few spots of imperfections from what I was told were due to lovebugs that weren’t cleaned by original owner and the bugs acidity is not good for the clear/paint. There is only one small dent in the passenger side rear door. It won’t show in photos because it’s very slight dime size and can be corrected via paintless dent repair . Other than that no other dents or dings.
Interior: It has full interior . Seat fabric and floor carpet are in great condition . No tears or fade .
I relocated the hvac knobs to the bottom and added a double din panel. Also, top panel has been changed over to a lancer virage 2 din. Info and pics here . https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...en-done-3.html .
The windows switches all work. Headlights , turn signals all work. There is an issue with the drivers door lock . For some reason it won’t respond to the remote or switch lock or unlock . It does lock and unlock with key manually . It might either be fuse or something in the door electrical connection. I got the car this way. All other doors lock and unlock automatically via remote and interior switch . I have 3 keys and 3 remotes .
The build thread did have details of what I did and removed. In short other than trunk spare tire floor being cutout, structurally there were no other changes. Rear subframe will be needed. It has a front tubular subframe but transmission motor mount bracket removed . Regretfully I can’t find the bracket.
Engine bay /ecu harness was hacked and connections/plugs removed that were no longer needed. So you will need a new ecu and it’s harness .
I thinks that’s about all. But let me know if there are any more questions.
Last edited by BluEVOIX; Dec 24, 2022 at 12:27 PM.
