***Official SW Ohio Chat Thread***
Originally Posted by 992gnt
You should have used most of a liter of fluid swapping lines!
Paul - I will be picking up a LICP soon, thanks for the offer though. The dust shields are still on the spindles; I don't want to mess with wrapping the abs lines. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve if needed, but so far the Motul RBF, stock brake guides, and the ti shims seem to be doing the job. The calipers are black, rotors spider cracked, dust seals almost completely gone, and I went through a new set of PFC-01 pads in 3 events.
Paul - I will be picking up a LICP soon, thanks for the offer though. The dust shields are still on the spindles; I don't want to mess with wrapping the abs lines. I have a few more tricks up my sleeve if needed, but so far the Motul RBF, stock brake guides, and the ti shims seem to be doing the job. The calipers are black, rotors spider cracked, dust seals almost completely gone, and I went through a new set of PFC-01 pads in 3 events.
What have you guys paid for the Mitsu brake guides?
BTW Greg, I have a decent tow vehicle for sale for cheap. It is a 1995 Chevy 1500 4x4 turbo diesel. Paul should be familiar with the 6.5 liter TD engine, it is the same one they use in the real Hummers. It can pull pretty much anything you want. PM me if you want any further info.
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Just wanted to give a premptive howdy to those heading out to the fun event at the Ford plant this weekend. I haven't autocrossed since last August due to real life getting in the way, but I couldn't let an entire season go by without getting out at least once. I'm really looking forward to knocking some rust off. Also, anyone happen to have an extra set of rims for sale?
Originally Posted by 992gnt
Originally Posted by coolnick
Fresh ATE super blue going in tomorrow. About a week late.
Originally Posted by broeli
Good luck with it. That's what I had and boiled. I'll be using Motul next year along with brake guides, etc.
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Sounds like a big brake job is in the future for you all. You may need to switch to some 6 piston calipers with individual pads and floating rotors. This style is on the SPARCO car and from what was told they work great.
Have any of you given thoughts to the FORGE brake cooling ducts?
I still think you should remove the dust shields too. It will greatly aid in getting more air to the rotors.
Have any of you given thoughts to the FORGE brake cooling ducts?
I still think you should remove the dust shields too. It will greatly aid in getting more air to the rotors.
Originally Posted by Appauldd
Sounds like a big brake job is in the future for you all. You may need to switch to some 6 piston calipers with individual pads and floating rotors. This style is on the SPARCO car and from what was told they work great.
Have any of you given thoughts to the FORGE brake cooling ducts?
I still think you should remove the dust shields too. It will greatly aid in getting more air to the rotors.
Have any of you given thoughts to the FORGE brake cooling ducts?
I still think you should remove the dust shields too. It will greatly aid in getting more air to the rotors.
The duct kits are nice and might work but they are overpriced.
I will probably do something with the dust shields but I probably won't completely remove them.
Once I get the basics like the air guides, modify the backing plates, ti shims, Motul fluid, etc. I'm sure I'll be fine....maybe.
Originally Posted by 992gnt
ATE does not hold up. At Mid Ohio I boiled it 8 times in 8 sessions over two days. (I flush before each event) I switched to Motul and haven't had a problem. So far.