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Spring fever here in Michigan

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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:37 AM
  #31  
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People here in MI cannot drive in the winter which is why mine sits. Last thing i need is someone plowing into my car because of their driving abilities.
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 07:41 AM
  #32  
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I can't wait til We get in the 50's. Now it in the single digits and below zero windchills. I never driven my car in the snow. I'm the OG owner since 05 when I drove it off the showroom floor.
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #33  
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i live in indiana...not much better
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #34  
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From: Sag-Nasty, MI
The last couple years I've driven mine more in the winter than in the summer, stock coilovers go back on, stock wheels with articmax's and a pretty normal alignment.

I like the rust-prevention tips some have listed in here, think i'm going to do a little sanding and painting soon.. but I'm also with everyone worried about other drivers.. that's my biggest concern as well. Not that I haven't been deserving of some drama now and then, it's pretty easy to get carried away with an Evo in the snow lol
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 04:38 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by FJF
If one lives in a part of the country that's heavily salted, the car will rust no matter what. We've been dealing with this crap here for decades. The only way to avoid salt-driven damage is not to expose the car to salt. There's no other way.
I disagree with that 100%, I've lived in Michigan for 15 years and I'm a chassis engineer, and I can tell you, if money was no option, cars can be made rust proof. If you think your manufacturer doesn't spec your e-coat for cost and not rust protection, you're lying to yourself. Everything is done to ensure the car stays rust free under the warranty period. If they were built for the life-time of the car and not for profit, cars could be made 99% rust proof of the OEM wanted to. From things like using stronger phosphate base coats, better quality and higher thickness e-coat, U-V protection add ons for e-coat itself, early wax applications (like some truck frames), to thicker top coats, it is very doable to make things rust proof.

Most suspension parts (i.e. knuckle) don't even have a rust protection layer on them, they're just an appearance coating so people don't complain their shiny new car looks bad from the rear if you can see the knuckle. In fact, trucks are usually the only ones with full e-coat frames and suspension parts. Quality control is another big one, as dealing with air pockets in e-coat is very difficult. If the company has good engineers that from the original design create properly placed drain and burp holes, you'll get a much better quality coating. Add in things like frame plugs, etc. and you can rust proof the underbody very well.

So, buy a higher quality car with higher specifications, and you'll be fine. You'll pay for it in the cost of the vehicle, but throw two same age cars up on a lift, one from Chevrolet and one from BMW and you'll see the difference a thicker e-coat specification can make for the under body.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:02 AM
  #36  
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I took mine apart due to a spun bearing, now its in pieces and its too effin' cold to finish, I bought one of those torpedo heaters but it ended up missing parts and HomeDepot had none left for the season, I was like WTF, we live in Michigan and how is Winter Seasonal? We have Hot & Cold Seasons, now there is one variation of Hot and 5 variations of Cold, we have Blistering Cold, Rainy Cold, Windy Cold, Snowy Cold, and just F**ken Cold.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:08 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by MyEvo8Urs
I took mine apart due to a spun bearing, now its in pieces and its too effin' cold to finish, I bought one of those torpedo heaters but it ended up missing parts and HomeDepot had none left for the season, I was like WTF, we live in Michigan and how is Winter Seasonal? We have Hot & Cold Seasons, now there is one variation of Hot and 5 variations of Cold, we have Blistering Cold, Rainy Cold, Windy Cold, Snowy Cold, and just F**ken Cold.
LOL! That is the biggest issue right there. I do not have a heated garage and do not mind parking it for the winter, but I at least wish I could work on it over the winter. I have a slew of parts sitting at the house to put on but unfortunately I will have to wait until the weather breaks somewhat as busting your knuckles in single digits blows!
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 05:52 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by sirsol
I disagree with that 100%, I've lived in Michigan for 15 years and I'm a chassis engineer, and I can tell you, if money was no option, cars can be made rust proof. If you think your manufacturer doesn't spec your e-coat for cost and not rust protection, you're lying to yourself. Everything is done to ensure the car stays rust free under the warranty period. If they were built for the life-time of the car and not for profit, cars could be made 99% rust proof of the OEM wanted to. From things like using stronger phosphate base coats, better quality and higher thickness e-coat, U-V protection add ons for e-coat itself, early wax applications (like some truck frames), to thicker top coats, it is very doable to make things rust proof.

Most suspension parts (i.e. knuckle) don't even have a rust protection layer on them, they're just an appearance coating so people don't complain their shiny new car looks bad from the rear if you can see the knuckle. In fact, trucks are usually the only ones with full e-coat frames and suspension parts. Quality control is another big one, as dealing with air pockets in e-coat is very difficult. If the company has good engineers that from the original design create properly placed drain and burp holes, you'll get a much better quality coating. Add in things like frame plugs, etc. and you can rust proof the underbody very well.

So, buy a higher quality car with higher specifications, and you'll be fine. You'll pay for it in the cost of the vehicle, but throw two same age cars up on a lift, one from Chevrolet and one from BMW and you'll see the difference a thicker e-coat specification can make for the under body.
Please don't talk to me like I'm an idiot. I've been driving in this climate for 30+ years and I'm willing to put up my education and experience against anyone's. It comes down to this: Is there a production automobile in salt-driven climate (like Upstate, NY) that's rust-free after a number of years on the road? Can you name one? No? Let's make this more streamlined, as we're talking about Evolutions. Is there an Evo that lives in salt and remains rust-free? No? There's a reason why folks in this part of the country won't even buy shells locally.

Last edited by FJF; Jan 27, 2011 at 06:01 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 06:38 AM
  #39  
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:02 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SEEnoEVO
People here in MI cannot drive in the winter which is why mine sits. Last thing i need is someone plowing into my car because of their driving abilities.
That is so true and one of the biggest reasons why I park it in the winter as well.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 07:11 AM
  #41  
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I'm doing my first MI winter with an Evo IX. Last few years I had to drive my Cobra in the snow which sucked. I moved here from IL where you can live with a mustang as your only car. I quickly bought an Escape 4x4 after a few MI winters in the Mustang.

The Evo however is simply awesome in the snow. As long you drive sanely it's not too much to manage. Mine still has directional performance tires and besides the occasional snow covered corner I have to take slowly, the tires are surprisingly not bothering me.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:10 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by FJF
Please don't talk to me like I'm an idiot. I've been driving in this climate for 30+ years and I'm willing to put up my education and experience against anyone's. It comes down to this: Is there a production automobile in salt-driven climate (like Upstate, NY) that's rust-free after a number of years on the road? Can you name one? No? Let's make this more streamlined, as we're talking about Evolutions. Is there an Evo that lives in salt and remains rust-free? No? There's a reason why folks in this part of the country won't even buy shells locally.
I wasn't trying to talk to you like you're an idiot, sorry if you took it that way. I was just stating that if the OEM's actually wanted, its entirely possible. Since they choose not to based on cost, the owner can make up the difference them self and the car can actually stay rust free if it is well maintained.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #43  
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Calm down fellas, all this subject becomes is those who drive the evo during the winter and thosse who don't.

Just to clarify, RUST IS OXIDATION...its a chemical reaction between oxygen and metals. Water is merely a catalyst. Over time this is going to happen regardless. Think about when your evo comes in contact with water...there are a lot more than times than you think. The air is full of water in gas form. Think about when its really humid, raining or even when you get a car wash.

Don't be so quick to argue to drive or not to drive during winter. This subject is pointless. You cannot avoid OXYGEN or WATER coming in contact with your evo.

Last edited by Earthen; Jan 27, 2011 at 08:39 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 08:38 AM
  #44  
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Also, I bought my evo to drive for the fun, excitement, style, performance etc etc etc. I won't always be able to enjoy this car and probably won't own it to the day I die.

I just do what I can to maintain and keep it in good shape. The rest of the time, I just enjoy without worries about what is not in my control, like rust.

Life is too short, live it behind the wheel and not from outside the car.
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Old Jan 27, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #45  
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Move to Florida (central florida is best), problem solved lol. This is why down the road some day when I have my own house and money the garage will have a heater/ac unit installed. Mother nature doesn't tell me when I can or cannot work on my car lol.. Well at least for now she does.
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